Link to pic, https://i.imgur.com/RZbsRCW.jpg

 

AWESOME...!

That Light Blue wire should have straight power to it with the key ON
It gets its power from the 7.5A ECU-B NO.2 fuse.
I remember you said you checked that fuse and got 12v to it right?
Can you check that fuse again to confirm?

If you have power in that fuse, and no power in that Light Blue wire, it just means you have a broken wire/connection somewhere.

Please let me know what you find.

 

I'm positive I have 12v to that fuse. Although, when I popped the fuse and stuck my lead directly on the metal part of the fuse block (where the fuse plugs into) I didn't get 12v, but since I did get 12v when I put the fuse back in, I just assumed I wasn't making good contact on the fuse block, I didn't want to force/jam my lead and break something which would cause the fuse not to sit in place, properly. However, I confirmed I had 12v when I popped the fuse back in and touched the top metal opening of the fuse.

I'm a bit confused, when I pulled that fuse, I lost ALL power to the module, something seems off to me, here. When I put the fuse back in, I was able to move the window up/down.

edit- I believe the fuse in question is in spot 26 in the engine block fuse box (I don't have the user manual in front of me).

 

Got that cleared.
You have power on that fuse.

Do you have power on that Light Blue wire of the connector with the KEY ON?

Dont get confused.
We are trying to see if you have power on that Light Blue wire.

 

I'm confused because you said that fuse provides power to the light blue wire, but that light blue wire appears to not have 12v, but when I pull that fuse, I have no power at the module (no power, meaning, when I plug the harness in and pull the fuse (when I was testing yesterday) I could not control the driver window up/down and there were no lights on the module. When I plug the fuse back in, I get lights on the module and I can control the driver window but there is no power on the light blue wire. How can that be (this is why I am confused)?

No, when the key in on (button pressed in, engine not running) I don't get 12v to the light blue wire. I am 100% with you, we are looking at the light blue wire and trying to determine why I'm not getting voltage at that wire.

Thanks.

 

Yes, that fuse powers the module via Light blue wire.
I dont know how the driv window works with no power on that light blue wire.
Unless there is a short in the system that allows it to have power.
Maybe back feeding from somewhere.

We can try applying straight voltage to the backside of the Light Blue wire and see if it changes anything.
Since that should have power anyways, there should be no harm done, theoretically

Do this at your own discretion.
I'll wash my hands now if something smokes up. lol
Thats what i would do though if it was my problem.

 

Dang...
Just dawned on me.

Window motors gets straight power from its own fuses.
Not from the window switches.
If you look at your fuse locations, there is FL Door , FR Door , RL Door , RR Door
These are individual fuses to power each door.
Window switches the operation of the window via flipping power to ground. TOINK...!

Thats why you can still operate the driv door without power to the light blue wire.

Make sense now.

 

Ok, that tells me there is a break in the light blue wire since I'm getting 12v at the fuse in the engine bay but not getting any voltage at the light blue wire on the connector. I still don't understand why when I pull the fuse in the engine bay, the entire module loses power. According to what I've read in this thread, the fuse I pulled is for the light blue wire and when it is pulled I have no drivers side module, nothing works on the module. How can the wire have a break causing me to not get 12v at the light blue wire but still kills power to the entire module when that fuse is pulled? Is that fuse powering multiple wires?

Thanks.

 

With today modern cars I would never tell anyone to apply direct power to anything. A better way is to use a test probe such as Lisle 24550 Computer Safe Circuit Tester. Or if you can afford it a Power Probe which can supply either power or ground.

A simple power-window circuit. When the driver presses one of the switches, one of the two side contacts is disconnected from the ground and connected to the center power contact, while the other one remains grounded. ... If the switch is pressed the other way, then power runs through the motor in the opposite direction. The motor runs either clockwise or counterclockwise.

 

 

I'm not planning on putting 12v directly to that wire. I don't mind buying another tester (can be used for other things, as well) that is a better/safer way to troubleshoot. Feel free to recommend and I'll take a look (not sure of prices, yet).

Thanks.

 

Im a bit old school and use a home made jumper leads with a circuit breaker in it.
Aside from a test light and multimeter, thats all im familiar with.

Ive heard great things about this though:

 

 

We must not be on the same page. Your Red arrow is not light blue (to me), it is dark blue with gray tracer (you never mentioned a gray tracer, all you said was light blue and I was calling that teal). Since you mentioned black tracer for the white wire and no tracer for the blue, I assumed you were talking about a wire w/o a tracer.

Red arrow (+), I get 12v
Green arrow (-), I only tested for continuity and I do seem to have it, the meter beeps when I touch the metal pin on the white/black wire and a ground bolt on the frame of the vehicle.

The teal wire (no tracer, to the left of the white/black wire [green arrow] that's the wire that I'm not getting voltage on.

However, based on what your marked up image shows, it DOES make sense to me, now, why I am getting 12v on the blue and when things stop working when I pull the fuse. That's the good news. Now I think we are on the same page. I was very confused when we had the colors mixed up.

edit- I now see my mistake, gray isn't a tracer, many of the wires have gray marks, the tracer in the white wire is the thin black line. However, I still stand by the blue and light blue.

 

Whew...
A tracer to me is a wire with a line of a different color like the White ground wire with a black line.
The Blue wire doesnt seem to have a line (basing on the pic) but has gray markings. <<-- not a tracer to me. lol
Sorry about that.

Lets summarize.
-- Got power on the master switch
-- Got ground on the master switch.
-- Driver side window works but wont initialize.

Master switch can control the other windows/door locks/side mirrors via communication line ( PURPLE wire).

My conclusion would be a BAD Master switch, ( i know you replaced it with a used ebay one with no change)
Or a bad communication line to the Body ECU. (or even a bad body ECU )

You can check codes for these with an able scanner.
No light would show in the dash for a fault but you can check for codes.