2008M3

Hi Everyone,

I have a 2010 rx350 with about 53K miles on it and the hood shocks and trunk shocks are blown. The front hood won't stay open on its own anymore.

The rear trunk slams really fast on it's own when I close it at the very end. It used to have a lot of resistance. The power rear trunk works fine but I'm afraid because the shocks are blown it might damage the power rear trunk module. Anyone have any experience with this?

Should I replace these and how difficult is it to replace them? Is it even worth it to replace these?

Where can I get the original OEM shocks for the lowest price?

Thanks in advance.

SteveCraig

Easy DIY job if you are handy. Do one at a time & have someone hold open the hood/hatch while you work.
These are not a specialized strut, should be available on-line.Get the details from the tags on the old ones.
OR
A number on Lexus dealers sell on-line as well.

F250

For the hood, aftermarket looks like they run in the range of $27-29 each ( https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/sh...utility-4door/ )

while the OEM units at myLparts are $69-$77 each (Japan built being lower cost than US/Canada built) ( https://www.mylparts.com/auto-parts/...omponents-scat ).

Either of the above links can take you to the parts for your rear hatch struts as well, depending upon whether or not you go OEM.

One noteworthy issue is that the LEXUS lists two separate part numbers for the hood struts, one for each side which really makes no sense to me! Aftermarket sources list a SINGLE part number for EACH side. These struts are not made for one side only... any of them will fit BOTH sides. I've been through this exact same issue for the hood struts on my Ford F250 twice, once eight years ago, and then again this past weekend. Even on my 14yo F250, Ford still wants me to think that I need two different parts and that one of them is more "special" than the other and they actually charge more money for one of them! I don't know why the manufacturers sometimes feel it necessary to take advantage of their brand-loyal customers by trying to make them think that you need two different parts and one of them costs more than the other when it just is not true.

It's only a 15 minutes job and requires no special tools (just a small pick and a narrow bladed flat tip screwdriver, and maybe some needle nose pliers).

ThChinaman

The hood struts are priced the same. Were you looking at Japan vs Canada built? If different part numbers, they're probably not the same.

F250

Good catch, Ray. You are absolutely correct about the pricing difference being Japan-vs-Canada sourcing for the OEM. They are shown as different part numbers by Lexus for each side, though. Like I said, the aftermarket parts sources only show a single part number and that is because you can spin one head 180° to make it fit either side. Good for Lexus in pricing them the same, but the separate part number make no sense to me, especially since the accepted "best practice" is to replace both struts at the same time.

I'm going to pull my struts this evening to verify one way or the other.

Thanks for pointing that out the parts origin, though. I've edited my earlier post to reflect this detail.

2008M3

$150 per side for the rear with power liftgate. Wow, that is expensive! Anyone have any luck with aftermarket? Where did you get them for aftermarket?

F250

Click the first link in Post #3 above for one aftermarket source. Scroll down the page it takes you to, and you'll see the lift gate supports for $27-$29 each. I would suggest the Strong Arm if you go aftermarket.

dannyjaye

2010 RX 350
Hi-I purchased the new struts.....they look like they would fit perfectly. I am having trouble removing the old struts that attach to the chassis. There is not enough clearance to back them off the mounting ball. Am I missing something? Do I need to remove additional parts? When I did this with my 2004 Honda the process took about 10 minutes but there was easy access to the knuckle bolts. Can I take the clip off from the top and is there adequate room to remove it. It seems really tight.
Thanks in advance for your advice.

F250

If there is no room to slip the heads off the knuckle bolts, then the chances of getting the clips off without scratching the plastic interior surface is slim, even though you can pull off the clips at an angle with the right tools. I have not yet looked into these replacements on my RXh yet, but from what you've said, it does sound like something else may need to be removed to allow enough clearance for the strut head removal. Can you snap and post a picture of what you're seeing?

This video, though, shows that the clip can slip out with minimal room.

dannyjaye

Here is the passenger side strut at the bottom.

Passenger Side Strut***little or no clearance to remove it or the retainer clip.

dannyjaye

There is a hex bolt holding the assembly, If nobody has a better suggestions, I can always remove the entire bracket and have full access to the knuckle joint and retainer. I was hoping to find an "easier" way to do this. I would have to remove the plastic covering near the windshield to gain access to the hex bolt.

F250

Bracket removal was what I was thinking, so I believe that is probably your best next step. Tedious, but sometimes that's just the way it is.

I'm determined to look mine over when I walk through the garage tonight after I get home.

dannyjaye

Please let me know what you think after you put your eyes on it tonight.

Thanks!

F250

Will do.

EDIT: Done. Read the following two posts.

F250

There is enough room to get the end out without removing plastic trim or removing the bracket itself. I just did it myself. I took some pictures which are thumb-nailed in the post below this one.