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It does not exist. Your best bet is to install polyurethane bushings on the rear bar. You can find them on eBay for about $25. I have them and they are worth the small investment and they are easy to install.
It does not exist. Your best bet is to install polyurethane bushings on the rear bar. You can find them on eBay for about $25. I have them and they are worth the small investment and they are easy to install.
Do you know the size of the rear sway bar? Seems like 25mm to me.
Just order these from eBay, they are what I have on my RX and they fit all 3rd gen (2010-2015 RX350-RX450h vehicles), they even provide the grease as you must grease polyurethane bushings on installation or they squeak. The grease is thick and you probably never need to grease again or maybe every few years. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PU-Rear-Sw...cAAOSwJK9blU1Y
What specific improvements have those poly rear sway bar bushings provided to you? Noise silencing? Ride improvement? Component longevity? All of the above? How long have you had them on your RX?
And when you removed your factory bushings, how deteriorated were they?
The poly rear sway bushings slightly tighten up the handling and reduce body roll a bit. It is subtle. I have installed them on other cars but usually along with a bigger swaybar. I did it to improve handling because when I got it I thought the RX handled like my parent's 1968 Buick.
The old sway bushings were in perfect condition when removed and I would put them back on if needed.
Last edited by Clutchless; Nov 3, 2020 at 02:01 PM.
Thanks for the feedback. I will keep those poly sway bar bushings in mind. My wife is not complaining about the ride quality of her 2015 RX350 at this point (it just turned 55,000 miles) so for the time being I will leave it alone.
Back in March I installed a more substantial rear sway bar with the appropriate new bushings and a new pair of end links on my 2013 Subaru Outback 3.6R. That definitely improved its handling at highway speeds and in crosswinds. This was the only modification I have felt the need to do to that vehicle since purchasing it exactly five years ago (it just turned 57,000 miles).
I'm gonna be installing KYB Rear Shocks on a 2010 RX450h in a few days. I found some documentation from Toyota in a YouTube video that says to replace the top bolt if the shock mount is serrated. Has anyone seen this notice? What's the reason for the updated bolt?
So I ended up keeping the original hardware even though the shock mounts are definitely serrated. The hardware was a little rusty from being out in the Northeast for 11 years, so if you’re in a similar boat I would recommend replacing all the bolts as well.
Old OEM shocks were completely shot, no wonder the ride was so bouncy and would crash on big bumps.
These were made in Japan which made me feel better about using aftermarket parts. Access couldn’t be easier. Just two 17mm bolts on the outside of the body. No need to tear up the trunk to remove them. Pro tip: jack up the suspension to about ride height before you loosen the bolts, makes removal and installation that much easier. No fighting with shocks to get the holes lined up. Extra greasy Ignore the CV axle boot, that’s leftover penetrating oil from a brake job. Hardware was a little rusty. Completely shot. Made by Tokico. Rides pretty good, no more crazy bounce.
Gardel - Get the Lexus shocks as they are what you have and will just be a new replacement maintaining the same ride. They are also cheaper to buy if you buy online from one of the many discount Lexus parts web sites such as https://www.mylparts.com/
or www.lexuspartsnow.com
Any local gas station can install them as it is only 2 bolts as shown above in the photos. There is no reason to go to a dealer for these.
Just replaced my wife's 2011 RX 450h with 92K rear shocks after hearing a slight clunk on bumps from the passenger rear side. AWD, w/o sport and w/o air ride. Same shock for both sides. Simple to do if you don't have a seized bushing to the bolt on the bottom mount. All you need is a jack and 17mm socket, air wrench or electric impact driver will make the job 20 minutes per side, half of that to take off the wheel. The problem I ran into was the right side had the bolt on the bottom seized to the bushing in the shock (common problem with all vehicles) and the bolt would only come out half way and stop. What I did after fighting it for an hour was this. Soak with PB blaster, re-tighten the bolt, soak the bolt and run it out until it stopped again, soak again and re-tighten. I did this over and over and each time the bolt came a little farther out, then after about four or five times it came out. Be careful banging prying the bolt, the shock brackets bend easy. The drivers side wasn't seized so it took about 15 minutes to replace. After removing the shocks and inspecting them I could take the passenger side shock and push it in and pull it out with almost no resistance and it lost all of the pressure. The new shocks and the drivers side old shock that was still good, are pressurized and the shock would not stay in the compressed position. When you push it closed it would slowly extend itself. Simple job, OEM shocks were about 100 for the pair. I just stuck with OEM because she loves the ride and I didn't want to change that. Right or wrong, I did coat the bolts with anti-seize in case I have to do it again. RX rides great and no clunk or swaying when jerking the wheel left and right on the road. If you can change a tire, you can change the rear shocks.
Update. Rear passenger side started clunking again! I had to re-tighten the bottom shock bolt, all good... Oppesy, I guess it wasn't tight enough the first time!
Planning on replacing both rear shocks and front struts. I am looking for more comfort, don't want stiff ride. I gather that Sachs are good but only find them for rear in Rock Auto (part # SACHS 316603).
What do I do with the front? Does Sachs make struts for our cars? If so, where can I find them? thanks.
