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Mitserolf, I'm glad that thing works out great for you ... and you didn't even ask your techie friends for help ... you're more "fearless" than me ....ha ha
TN7CON,, honestly i was nervous ,playing with those tiny wires and harness with a small tiny,tight opening , I didnt have a choice, no Techies around me haha, weekend is coming, i needed to do it myself, or else my wife and grandkids wont ride with me in hot a car,,Ha ha ha. But with your help, I was able to do it. Thanks again.
Lexus and Toyota should recall cars with those faulty sensors,, imagine even camry 2012-14 has these bad sensors. But then again, they want to make more money from poor customers.Enjoy the weekend,, My family and i shall surely do with AC now working.
You can get the 741 op amp at your local Frys Electronics, RS, etc ... cheapest is on eBay (choose USA seller for quick delivery) ...
Your local Frys should have the LM741 ($1.79) or you can use LM324 quad op amp ($1.59).
If there's a RS near you, RS should also have the 741 op amp IC ($0.78) or LM324 ($1.30) on sale
Thanks buddy i will just stick with LM741 and buy it locally as my friend is free tomorrow and will take the car and hopefully things go as planned thank you so much for the cooperation as Lexus is considered high class owners compared to Camry owners i will keep u guys updated
TDI, good luck. It should work with that booster, 7YWU and TN7Con know their stuff. So far ive been enjoying AC on my RX, i t has been 3 days of extreme warm weather, AC problem fixed at the right time. Its also very good to know the VIN s of those cars with potential faulty flow sensor per Service Bulletins, in case someone wants to buy used cars RXs and Camry's to avoid those car VINs . Very helpful indeed and informative. I shall continue to enjoy my AC,, as officially real Summer is on its way.Thanks Again!
Thanks man, i am still working on it i am waiting on techstream cable from ebay, besides that i took the car to my buddy who has a scanner worth $3000 (thats what he claims) and we hooked the car to it and was reading the flow sensor voltage which said 8.v i immediately sent email to TN7CON and he advised on checking the voltage manually and also said to get the toyota software to get the accurate readings, according to the TSB it said if volts are above 3.7 V, evacuate the A/C system
and verify refrigerant charge level which we did and nothing changed. so i am waiting on the software and based on that will see what should be done as i am very nervous and uncomfortable getting the compressor replaced as lots of things will have to be taken off to get into the compressor which includes the radiator fans and radiator as well. i would not mind if a car was 12 or 15 years old but this is 2014 the car needs preserve its factory feeling under the hood for now!
TN7CON i cant thank this man enough he surely is a god sent person very understanding and kind and always replied to my emails when things work as planed i will surely send you $$ for a beer!
I just reviewed the TSB, and the same year model RX450h vehicles are not referenced at all, even though they are virtually identical to the 350's in most ways. Can anyone confirm that there is something different about the RX450h compressor sensor which will NOT lead to this potentially becoming an issue on my 2010 RXh?
I just reviewed the TSB, and the same year model RX450h vehicles are not referenced at all, even though they are virtually identical to the 350's in most ways. Can anyone confirm that there is something different about the RX450h compressor sensor which will NOT lead to this potentially becoming an issue on my 2010 RXh?
The AC compressor for the RX350 is clutch/belt driven while the AC compressor for the RX450h is electric motor driven ... that's the difference .... they are not using the same AC compressor ...
Hi TDI, im curious if by now youre AC is working again. Its almost 2 weeks now that my AC is back and running smoothly. Thanks to TN7CON. Now we know that there are thousand of cars out there, Toyota,Lexus, even BMW/Volks which have these faulty flow sensor issue B1479 error code for toyota cars. But only a handful have came to this thread searching for answers.Imagine how much money Toyota Lexus is making for replacing compressors.My RX had 102,000 kms when the AC flow sensor problem came up, therefore out of warranty.Good for us, we have TN7CON to help and guide us.My fellow workers were amazed with my experience, and i agree with you TDI, he is indeed sent by SOMEONE BIG.
Hi Mitserolf and all, just one question before I start doing all of that on my Sienna 2011, how can you make your power amp working with such low supply voltage? Spec sheets mention a minimum of ±10 VDD to ground. How can it control accurately at ~3.8 VDC with a 5 VDC supply? Also, I think I will supply it with 12 VDC and use a 10 turn pot 100 Kohm or 1 Mohm instead of separate resistors, What do you think?
Thank you all for the info. I just refined this procedure slightly.
-I did not buy the Techstream device.
-I did not use any software.
-Also, my wiring colors are different since I have a Sienna 2011.
-The AC mechanic just told me that my system did not have any leaks, and he was able to force the clutch/compressor ON, but did not understand why it was stopping shortly, the AC was not working.
-After searching for similar behavior on the WEB, I concluded that it may be the problem described here.
-Rather than cutting or stripping wires, when I had the controller in my hand, I decided to unclip and simply remove the cover to access the connector pins inside the controller.
-After removing the cover and identifying the pins based on the pictures of the plug F50 provided here, I simply put the multi-meter on the identified pins and turned the car switch at ON while everything was plugged back, to measure the voltage.
-3.67 V, it confirmed that it was my problem also.
-Then, I identified a pin with 12 VDC, the first one on the left. It is better to respect the spec sheet of my ampli op, minimum supply voltage ±10 VDC. 5 VDC not enough.
-I then unplugged the controller, cut the flow sensor pin at half its lenght, to be able to solder a wire on each side for the input and output of the ampli op circuit.
-I used the 12 VDC supply for the ampli op, and a 500 Kohm 10 turn potentiometer adjusted to 10% of its extremity to give a slight boost.
-After soldering everything, I went back and installed the controller and turned the car switch ON and measured the new voltage, and adjusted the pot exactly to reach 4 VDC.
-Put back the cover, re-installed everything.
Congrats papatrick, so now sienna or highlander can copy your fix.. so sienna requires 12v instead of 5 volt on lexus, anyway,, this is a super thread,, thanks to our smarties here lic TN7CON and Yw, You must also be techy guy, built your own booster and soldered right in the back of the header connector of the board. Thanks all, i continue to enjoy the Ac on my car, enjoy yours as well..
In response to papatrick, the IC 741 op amp can take supply voltage as low as +4.5v DC (typical supply voltage for the 741 op amp is 4.5v to 18v). The datasheet *recommends* minimum +10v DC for the most stable drift free for most temperature range, it doesn't mean that it must take minimum +10v as the minimum. Reference here or here.
06-09-17, 03:52 PM
i will keep u guys updated
