RX - 3rd Gen (2010-2015) Discussion topics related to the 2010 - 2015 RX350 and RX450H models

saddle tan or black

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Old 11-16-13, 06:55 PM
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Aquafit2
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Default saddle tan or black

I'm buying a 2014 rx350.
I have narrowed my choice down to Starfire Pearl exterior with either black or saddle tan interior.
What are the pros and cons of these two colors. I cannot decide!

Thanks for your help!

Ellen
Old 11-17-13, 04:33 AM
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RickC5
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Personally, I really like black. Our 2010 RX has the parchment interior (light beige/cream) and just about any brand of blue denim pants (like Levis) will deposit blue dye on the seat bottom--every time. The blue can be removed using Lexol cleaner and conditioner, but it's a pain & it's unsightly. I have no clue if that will happen with saddle tan.

Noting that you live in Florida, you may find a black interior to be hotter in the summer than a lighter color.
Old 11-17-13, 05:36 AM
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jfelbab
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Originally Posted by RickC5
Personally, I really like black. Our 2010 RX has the parchment interior (light beige/cream) and just about any brand of blue denim pants (like Levis) will deposit blue dye on the seat bottom--every time. The blue can be removed using Lexol cleaner and conditioner, but it's a pain & it's unsightly. I have no clue if that will happen with saddle tan.

Noting that you live in Florida, you may find a black interior to be hotter in the summer than a lighter color.
FWIW, you can prevent dye transfer damage by using a water-based fluorocarbon leather protectant rather than a conditioner.
Old 11-17-13, 05:46 AM
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jfelbab
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Originally Posted by Aquafit2
I'm buying a 2014 rx350.
I have narrowed my choice down to Starfire Pearl exterior with either black or saddle tan interior.
What are the pros and cons of these two colors. I cannot decide!

Thanks for your help!

Ellen
I have both. Black is hot and shows scratches and burnishes while light leather is cooler but shows soiling easier.

Leather care is easy and the finish on leather is actually urethane paint so it is not difficult to keep clean. I have maintained both black and light tan leather for decades with simply a regular quarterly cleaning and application of a water-based fluorocarbon protectant. I vacuum and wipe down the leather with a damp cotton towel every week or two when I do a wash.

My 1991 MR2 is 23 years old and has black leather while I just sold my 2004 RX330 with tan leather and replaced it with a 2014 RX with parchment leather.

I personally prefer the lighter color leather. Modern coated leather is quite easy to care for and if you use a protector, it will stay looking like new for years.
Old 11-17-13, 05:48 AM
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konradsa
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Originally Posted by jfelbab

FWIW, you can prevent dye transfer damage by using a water-based fluorocarbon leather protectant rather than a conditioner.
Hi, I got that exact problem. Can you recommend a specific brand of cleaner to remove stains and then a protectant that work well? Thanks.
Old 11-17-13, 05:57 AM
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BertL
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Originally Posted by konradsa
Hi, I got that exact problem. Can you recommend a specific brand of cleaner to remove stains and then a protectant that work well? Thanks.
Leather Masters works for me. Do a search through THIS THREAD and you'll find more info, recommendations on Leather maintenance, as well as lots of other useful tips.
Old 11-17-13, 07:04 AM
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tfischer
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Black offers no contrast, depth or visual distinction between the interior of the car and the exterior. It's boring, uninteresting and says to the world that you are all empty inside.
Pick a color, any color, and step into the sunlight.
Old 11-17-13, 07:17 AM
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jfelbab
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Removing existing stains is a difficult issue.

Leather is really used to carry the topcoat. The nice even grain pattern you see and the uniform color and absence of scars and blemishes are due to the paint put on your leather. The actual split leather hide under the paint is quite ugly. Here is the rub...It is the paint, both a pigment and a clear coat, that is what gets stained. The longer the stain is in contact with the painted surface the deeper it penetrates. It is frequently impossible to completely remove dye transfer stains that have been in place for several days. The issue then becomes one of restoration and not cleaning at this point.

So here is what I'd do. This is called the CHAT method and is what most leather professionals suggest.
C=Chemical cleaner
H=Heat
A=Agitation
T=Time (dwell time)

I'd buy a bottle of Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner and I'd mix it 50/50 with mildly warm/hot water. Apply to a foam applicator and squeeze it repeatedly to get a rich thick foam then apply to a small 1' x 1' section and gently but aggressively agitate the area. Let the foamy cleaning solution dwell for a couple minutes then wipe it up with a 100% white cotton towel. Inspect the towel to see if the stain is coming up into the towel. If the towel shows some stain removal, repeat until the towel is coming up clean. Once the stain is no longer coming out you are done as the leather is as clean as you safely can get it. If all of the stain is not removed then you are facing a restoration or you'll have to live with it. It may fade some over time but you will not be able to remove the remaining stain without removing the painted topcoat.

It's important to apply leather protection to prevent this staining from occurring. Prevention is the key here. There are several leather protectors on the market. The product I personally use and can recommend is Leather Masters Leather Protection Cream. LTT also makes an excellent protector but it is hard to find here in the states. I know of several others including one new one from Meguiar's but I have not used them and thus can't comment on their effectiveness. I have used LM products for a couple decades and it is still the brand I reach for. First thing I did on my new 2014 RX was to apply the LM Protection Cream to the parchment leather.

I've mentioned this elsewhere but it bears repeating...leather conditioners do not prevent dye transfer.

If you have lighter colored leather go get a fluorocarbon protector and apply it now.
Old 11-17-13, 07:27 AM
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Aquafit2, you're going to get varying opinions. I'd advise looking at both interior colors in person. Pay special attention to the contrast since it's not truly one color inside. Either would look good with Starfire Pearl. Good luck with whatever you decide.
Old 11-17-13, 09:00 AM
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konradsa
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Originally Posted by jfelbab
Removing existing stains is a difficult issue.

Leather is really used to carry the topcoat. The nice even grain pattern you see and the uniform color and absence of scars and blemishes are due to the paint put on your leather. The actual split leather hide under the paint is quite ugly. Here is the rub...It is the paint, both a pigment and a clear coat, that is what gets stained. The longer the stain is in contact with the painted surface the deeper it penetrates. It is frequently impossible to completely remove dye transfer stains that have been in place for several days. The issue then becomes one of restoration and not cleaning at this point.

So here is what I'd do. This is called the CHAT method and is what most leather professionals suggest.
C=Chemical cleaner
H=Heat
A=Agitation
T=Time (dwell time)

I'd buy a bottle of Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner and I'd mix it 50/50 with mildly warm/hot water. Apply to a foam applicator and squeeze it repeatedly to get a rich thick foam then apply to a small 1' x 1' section and gently but aggressively agitate the area. Let the foamy cleaning solution dwell for a couple minutes then wipe it up with a 100% white cotton towel. Inspect the towel to see if the stain is coming up into the towel. If the towel shows some stain removal, repeat until the towel is coming up clean. Once the stain is no longer coming out you are done as the leather is as clean as you safely can get it. If all of the stain is not removed then you are facing a restoration or you'll have to live with it. It may fade some over time but you will not be able to remove the remaining stain without removing the painted topcoat.

It's important to apply leather protection to prevent this staining from occurring. Prevention is the key here. There are several leather protectors on the market. The product I personally use and can recommend is Leather Masters Leather Protection Cream. LTT also makes an excellent protector but it is hard to find here in the states. I know of several others including one new one from Meguiar's but I have not used them and thus can't comment on their effectiveness. I have used LM products for a couple decades and it is still the brand I reach for. First thing I did on my new 2014 RX was to apply the LM Protection Cream to the parchment leather.

I've mentioned this elsewhere but it bears repeating...leather conditioners do not prevent dye transfer.

If you have lighter colored leather go get a fluorocarbon protector and apply it now.
Thanks for the elaborate response. Will purchase the recommended products and try your suggested method.

EDIT: Actually, I see Leather Master has a dye transfer cleaner that sounds like just the right thing for jeans stains:
Amazon.com - Leather Master Leather Dye Transfer Cleaner (8.45 oz) Amazon.com - Leather Master Leather Dye Transfer Cleaner (8.45 oz)
. I wil give that one a shot, and if the stain comes out I will apply the protection cream afterwards.

Last edited by konradsa; 11-17-13 at 09:32 AM.
Old 11-17-13, 12:14 PM
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Aquafit2
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I went to the dealer and sat in both cars. I think I am leaning towards the saddle tan. It is so rich and beautiful. Not too light and not too dark. Thanks for all the advise on leather care.
Old 11-17-13, 12:24 PM
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wilchan
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I have saddle on my silver RX and my wife and I both love it.
Old 11-17-13, 12:29 PM
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Wilchan,

I can't remember if the carpet on the whole car is black with the saddle seats? How about the doors? Are they black too?

Thanks!
Old 11-17-13, 12:56 PM
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Saddle.
Old 11-17-13, 05:52 PM
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The carpet is black and door panel is all black except the arm rest/handle area are in saddle leather.


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