Hi all.
We have a 2011 RX350 Canadian and a rear trunk/lift gate problem.
I have been reading forum posts for hours over the last few days, but still looking for advice.As Clutchless has noted, there are lots of previous posts on this. And not surprising, not all had the same problems or solutions with even a degree of disagreement !
We started with a golf glove jammed in the trunk latch. From the inside we were able to open the trunk with difficulty as the glove really jammed it. After that the trunk would not work and seemed to have a mind of its own.
One night I thought I had it working but in the morning it was non-operational again.
I removed the latching motor and it bench tested strong in the latching and unlatching directions. Both micro switches were showing proper function for opening and closing with a continuity meter. So it appeared to be as good as new.
After running out of ideas we went off to the dealer. For $165 Cdn they tested the system and said “The latching system is not reading data correctly” “Sees half door switch open at all times, does not recognize door closed signal”
Their solution was “START WITH, replace trunk latch assembly”. $925 Cdn OUCH! and 2 week back order for the part.
We have no access to Tech Stream and only have a basic OBD2 reader.
I have the new latch assembly coming from EBay for $340 Cdn, but I am less than 50% optimistic in a positive result.
I am leaning towards a failed relay on the circuit board.
Where is that board please? Is it near the lift motor up behind the headliner? Then I would need to sort out which relay.
Is there a part number for the whole board and is it affordable?
We have cycled the glove box button many times and disconnected the battery many times and even left it overnight. BTW, the battery is only a year old and tests well. We also played with the door locking and unlocking a few times. It does not do much of anything now except one long beep and sometimes 2short beeps.
All suggestions appreciated, many thanks…..Tickypoo! 😃

 

Ok, still wondering if anyone has experience with the relay board and its location before I take the headliner down?
cheers….

 

As a reader, I would percolate qualified techs diagnosis on the top of all others. That does not mean the techs diagnosis is guaranteed to be correct.

Since your problem started with the stuck glove in the mechanism, that would be my focus area. It could be the adjustment [expected location of microswitches] is off. In this situation. each item would test out right but they are not at the right location.

By coincidence there might be failure of another part due to stress of the particular situation or a matter of wear.

Lastly, since you already have a used part with you, give it a try.

Do share what you find out.

Salim

 

Many thanks Salimshah for your interest.. I agree with all your thoughts on the assembly, it’s possible there is something going on that I have not seen.
And yes the tech should be the trump card but he only suggested we “start with” the $900 buck fix which leaves me wondering and what and how much after that..
I do not have a “used” , I only have the original latch motor assembly, installed in the car and an OEM new part due here by second week of March.
installing the new part , 10 minutes, will settle I think most all questions about a problem with that. If that does not work I need some other direction to focus on. That’s why I’m trying to learn about the computer/relay board.
cheers…. Tickypoo…