A warning to those recently purchasing a 2nd gen RX
#31
Lead Lap
#32
Driver School Candidate
After doing some research it looks as if all the towing packages have the oil cooler lines. My dealer had initially told me only the AWD had them. Looks as if FWD came with towing packages. I will have to remove the bottom covers and take a look for oil cooler lines. how do we confirm if your model has the tow package?
#33
Lead Lap
At this point after all the confusion about these lines anybody with an RX350 who hasn't changed them to the metal line should make a visual inspection and change the old rubber ones immediately. Even if you know for sure you don't have the tow prep package you should check to be sure you don't have these faulty lines. Best way is to remove the front engine cover and look just left of and attached to the upper housing connected to your oil filter. They can also be viewed (although a bit hard to see, but they're there) from above with an open hood and no removal if you look down slightly passenger side of center between radiator and front of engine. Look just left of where your oil filter is located and down low.
#34
Racer
I have an 07 fwd without towing package and I have the rubber hose.
I have the new metal hose & gaskets on the floor about 3 feet behind me. I just have to install it before the rubber hose blows.
I have the new metal hose & gaskets on the floor about 3 feet behind me. I just have to install it before the rubber hose blows.
#35
Lead Lap
Yeah, tow package or not, looks like most 350s have the defective line. No need to jack vehicle up, just undo the front engine cover. There's a good video in the DIY section. You'll need a 10mm wrench or socket,12mm deep socket, a universal joint, a longer extension, and an E8 star socket to remove some of the studs in order to slip the new part on. I have done mine and it's not too bad, PM me if you have any questions.
#36
Racer
I watched a DIY video and the job doesn't seem all that bad. I appreciate you giving me the wrench sizes. I have to get a star socket before I start the job.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#37
Driver School Candidate
#38
Lead Lap
Call Corporate at: 1-800-255-3987. They will provide you with a link where you will submit online the form for re-imbursement. You will need your receipt, take a photo of it and attach, your VIN, and I also sent them a photo of the old line I took off. Took about 4 or 5 weeks but they did send me a check.
#39
Driver School Candidate
Call Corporate at: 1-800-255-3987. They will provide you with a link where you will submit online the form for re-imbursement. You will need your receipt, take a photo of it and attach, your VIN, and I also sent them a photo of the old line I took off. Took about 4 or 5 weeks but they did send me a check.
#40
Lead Lap
I got mine done just before the first deadline, so I'm not sure how they'll reimburse you, but call and ask. I think they at least pro-rate it or something. Call and ask nicely, when I did, it was pretty clear they'd rather see the part replaced than fail.
#42
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
small flat screwdriver to pop clips on plastic panels
10mm
12mm
12mm deep (has to reach over studs)
E8 (inverted torx to remove 2 studs)
assorted extensions and/or universal joint or flex
I'd recommend quarter inch drive, because it is fairly tight and you don't need the extra leverage. I used several different length "wobble" extensions and did not need the universal joint.
Re-installing the higher nut on the highest/rearward stud on the on cooler side needs a thin wall socket or a socket that is longer than shallow, but not a full deep. The pipe geometry is slightly different on the redesign so reinstalling required a different variation of tools. My quarter inch craftsman deep was too big to get next to the pipe on that one nut, and shallow socket was too shallow to get over the stud, so I used a 1/4 to 3/8 small-to-big adapter and a 3/8 shallow 12mm socket to get the grip length over the stud. Tricky, but not difficult.
Maybe a different brand of shallow socket isn't so shallow and world work, so it really depends on the geometry of that brand tool.
Last edited by sladerx; 04-11-17 at 04:00 PM.
#43
Lead Lap
It's a 12mm deep socket for the nuts threaded onto studs. 10mm regular to remove engine covers and to undo bank 2 sensor 2 wire attachment so there's room to work. E8 star socket as mentioned to remove studs. Watch the video in DIY sticky then go for it. Not bad, just take your time and work patiently.
#44
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
It's a 12mm deep socket for the nuts threaded onto studs. 10mm regular to remove engine covers and to undo bank 2 sensor 2 wire attachment so there's room to work. E8 star socket as mentioned to remove studs. Watch the video in DIY sticky then go for it. Not bad, just take your time and work patiently.
#45
Lead Lap
All good, just wanted to clarify as this oil cooler line has been such a problem for so many. And I do agree, that far side nut is a pain to get back on. If any of you have done this job, or are about to, remember to apply for reimbursement from Lexus.