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Is the difference the result of Lexus updating the design or is this the difference between 43512-48081 and 43512-0E021. More importantly, does it matter? I think my RX was built in Canada. (I actually thought the Canada / Japan notation on the parts sites referred to the parts themselves.)
Hmm...I did install (one yesterday and one this morning) and it road tested perfectly. I have no issue with replacing with the correct parts if there could be a problem.
Hub is definitely larger. Question is, does it matter? The disk seems to be the same thickness and diameter..
In an earlier version of this post I incorrectly stated that the larger hub came within a few mm of the caliper bracket. That is not true. As these photos show, neither the bracket, or pad come anywhere close to the larger hub.
The other question I considered was whether there is some difference with how it interfaces with the wheel. I had a momentary OMG moment when I thought there was a small gap between wheel and the disk hub, and that I could stick some thin metal down there. But I forgot that the wheel in that area has a slight bevel on the inside that gives the appearance of a gap. I pulled RF and one can see where the wheel was properly touching the hub.
So the question remains, does it matter? As I said I have no issue with replacing this if it does. I would just eat the cost or resell them. Safety over money any day. I wonder if anyone else has done this.
I'm not an automotive engineer but one thing I note about the difference is that on the North American version, the smaller hub creates an inset area where there is access to the interior of the disk from the outboard side, so air can be drawn in from that side. Maybe the cooling is better that way. Are we harder on our brakes than in Japan and other parts of the world? Maybe someone thinks so.
I've been perusing the vendors of aftermarket parts. Not fancy shmancy "better than original" but what is offered for direct replacement. Some differentiate but many/most do not. And if their images are to be trusted, often their disks resemble the JP version. That's interesting because if they are only carrying one type, you'd think it was the NA version. (But maybe that one costs more to make.)
Of course, one might say well that is why we like to buy real Lexus parts from a real online Lexus dealer to get the EXACT part and that's what I've been doing. But that does tend to imply that the JP version is probably okay even if not as good as the NA version (and I'm only saying not as good because maybe the NA version cools better).
They are essentially the same rotor as far as specifications will go; so they will fit. The difference, as seen in the photos, are characteristics and should not affect the braking performance of your vehicle.
I'm not an automotive engineer but one thing I note about the difference is that on the North American version, the smaller hub creates an inset area where there is access to the interior of the disk from the outboard side, so air can be drawn in from that side. Maybe the cooling is better that way. Are we harder on our brakes than in Japan and other parts of the world? Maybe someone thinks so.
I've been perusing the vendors of aftermarket parts. Not fancy shmancy "better than original" but what is offered for direct replacement. Some differentiate but many/most do not. And if their images are to be trusted, often their disks resemble the JP version. That's interesting because if they are only carrying one type, you'd think it was the NA version. (But maybe that one costs more to make.)
Of course, one might say well that is why we like to buy real Lexus parts from a real online Lexus dealer to get the EXACT part and that's what I've been doing. But that does tend to imply that the JP version is probably okay even if not as good as the NA version (and I'm only saying not as good because maybe the NA version cools better).
First off, apologies to all for reviving this thread. I'm glad I found it after some searching as I also placed an order for a pair of OEM Toyota rotors that fit the Japan made RX350 while I also have the Canadian made version. I figured I'd take the risk as the images online all appear to be the same rotor with the exception of the size of the hub which you already pointed out.
So OP, have you experienced anything unusual with these rotors after 2 years? The bigger hub in the center seems like there's more mass which means there's more mass to heat up as well as more to make cooling take longer. I don't think either of these things are an issue as the thickness of these rotors look very legit. Considering that they sell for much cheaper than the ones designed for NA made vehicles, I'd say it's definitely worth the savings.
Hmm...I did install (one yesterday and one this morning) and it road tested perfectly. I have no issue with replacing with the correct parts if there could be a problem.
Hub is definitely larger. Question is, does it matter? The disk seems to be the same thickness and diameter..
In an earlier version of this post I incorrectly stated that the larger hub came within a few mm of the caliper bracket. That is not true. As these photos show, neither the bracket, or pad come anywhere close to the larger hub.
I noticed this difference as well. The hub in the NA spec rotors are wider than the JPP spec rotors, so that the NA rotors appear to be bigger overall, but in actuality, the rotor diameters are the same.
It makes sense that rotors would be interchangeable between the NA built and JPP built RX, otherwise the braking performance would be different between the Japanese and Canadian built models, which would cause all sort of problems with servicing and quality control.
I just replaced the front brake pads and brake rotors on my RX with OEM brake rotors and pads that I bought off of Ebay from a dealership.
The NA brake pads and rotors will fit on a JPP Japanese built RX without any issues.
I think I saw the ones you're talking about but I only needed the rotors as I purchased Raybestos Hybrid pads from Rockauto hoping to reuse my original rotors after resurfacing them. After cross referencing the correct Toyota part 43512-48081, I was able to find them for around $80 shipped with the 15% flash sale on ebay. About half the price of what my local Toyota dealer wanted. Glad to hear the Japanese and NA rotors are compatible with each other.
Smaller hat is double ventilated. See extra row of air slots? Which actually is a BETTER disk. or rotor. Keeps brakes cooler. Cooler brakes brake better. Not even sure why you are replacing it, it does not appear to be worn out really.
Thanks for maintaining this thread.
I'm a little late to the game here, but what a timely thread none the less.
So, mine is a 2010 Japanese build (and 1st year Gen 3).
I noticed the original rotor (in the picture) had rust on the rim and in the fins. My dealer noted the same on my front rotors during last checkup.
They suggested replacing them and they had already previously been turned. But they're not scored and there's no vibration or pulsing when pulling up to stop.
So, I'm thinking about just cleaning them off and installing some new after-market ceramic pads instead.
But, it bothers me that the dealer tried to slam home a comment about that rust ..everything else being acceptable (well, the rears apparently need their first turning and new pads).
Is this anything to be concerned about -- does the rust affect the greater integrity of the rotor?
My alternative is to chuck it all and pick up a (full) set of f&r rotors (and ceramic pads) from Power Stop, and save some bucks by going back to doing my own servicing.
They have nifty Z23 rotor sets that are drilled and grooved.
For claimed better stopping power, they seem like a better idea to me. They're also quite a bit cheaper than OEM (which I understand may be manufactured by Advics).
What do you think about that route?
Thanks for maintaining this thread.
I'm a little late to the game here, but what a timely thread none the less.
So, mine is a 2010 Japanese build (and 1st year Gen 3).
I noticed the original rotor (in the picture) had rust on the rim and in the fins. My dealer noted the same on my front rotors during last checkup.
They suggested replacing them and they had already previously been turned. But they're not scored and there's no vibration or pulsing when pulling up to stop.
So, I'm thinking about just cleaning them off and installing some new after-market ceramic pads instead. But, it bothers me that the dealer tried to slam home a comment about that rust ..everything else being acceptable (well, the rears apparently need their first turning and new pads).
Is this anything to be concerned about -- does the rust affect the greater integrity of the rotor?
My alternative is to chuck it all and pick up a (full) set of f&r rotors (and ceramic pads) from Power Stop, and save some bucks by going back to doing my own servicing.
They have nifty Z23 rotor sets that are drilled and grooved.
For claimed better stopping power, they seem like a better idea to me. They're also quite a bit cheaper than OEM (which I understand may be manufactured by Advics).
What do you think about that route?
You have a 3rd gen RX (which may have different rotors than 2nd gen RX) - but in general surface rust shouldn't affect the performance of the brakes as long as its confined to the edges of the rotors.
The reason why I had mine changed was because the front rotors on my RX had never been replaced before (only turned by the dealer) and were causing the vehicle to shudder when I braked to stop (warped front rotors are common on 2nd Gen RX)
It sounds to me like you can probably have the dealer simply replace the brake pads. It should be a $200-400 job. If the dealer insists on having the front brake rotors replaced, get it replaced an independent shop or do the work yourself.
greyRX, I would not be concerned about the rust in the fins, this is going to happen. The fact that you say the rotors have previously been turned, concerns me more.
There is a minimum thickness the rotors should wear to, not only to absorb heat, and prevent warping, but to ensure the caliper piston is not pushed too far out of the caliper, over turned rotors, with pads near the end of their life, cause the piston the come out of the caliper too far and is not well supported.
You are better off installing new rotors and new pads yourself.
Thanks to both replies.
I kinda figured the rust may not be any problem -- the dealer was more likely trying to add to their bottom line -- valet service comes at a cost.
The front pads have 7 mm remaining, rears at 3 mm.
So, think what I may do is replace all the rotors and pads with high-grade vented & slotted disks and ceramic composite pads. To save pricey labour costs I'll probably do the work myself. That should save me a small bundle, along with having more premium products on the car.
Have done brake servicing in my past and this newer car shouldn't be any problem ..I can leave any future BIG ticket items to the dealer's mechanics.
As an aside, just this morning had the tires rotated by local tire shop. Also asked them to quote on the brakes. Their prices were lots less than the dealer, but their Raybestos parts were very bottom-line stuff (with a huge markup).
Front Disk Differences
Rusty rotors and other tidbits..
