I agree with grumpa72. Leave the rotors alone, unless there is pulsation when you apply the brakes.

Some of you are hard drivers and actually burn your rotors...that's a different case. And that's ok. Rotors are not really that expensive and are fairly easy to replace.

Under normal use and with periodic pad replacements, the rotors should last very long. 1 round of turning and you should be all set.

 

Mandyfig, great write-up. Did you buy the brake fit kit and shim kit from Sewell? This is my first pad replacement at 56k miles. I am getting ready to order from Sewell and saw them listed as "recommended." It adds another $100 for the front and back kits, but I'm thinking about just using the old ones.
thanks, cbo

 

Thanks to the op for this great thread. Did all four corners on my wife's '04 yesterday and it went without a hitch.

Bought them from Park Place Lexus ,in Texas, @ $107, free shipping: Click here. (then click on a sub category)

Also, for those that might need them, here are the part #'s :

Front- 04465-48100
Rear- 04466-48060

These are witout shims.

 

Do the pads have to be replaced when you machine the rotors? Let's say you feel a vibration but the pads still have a lot of life in them... Or do the pads need to be fresh so that the contact patch isn't deformed from the old rotors?

 

In my experience, no, assuming that the pads have a uniform wear, more or less, and don't have unusual gouges, ridges or grooves. As long as I have good pads with at least half of the meat left on them, I reinstall them. My experience has led me to believe that vibration usually comes from out of round rotors or those with a sizable runout.

Pads will usuallly conform to a new rotor within just a few miles.

 

When installing new pads with new rotors, there's a great benefit to bed the brakes as well. You'll improve brake performance as well as reduce the chance for brake judder which is could be misdiagnosed as warped rotors. Here's a great write up I have used for my BMW: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm
Your car doesn't need to be a high performance car to benefit.

 

Great link! Must bed the brakes to gain full potential.

 

+1, wonder if the stealership does this when they test drive the car ?? My service advisor never mentioned it to me

 

Mandy- Nice writeup!

Do you know the torque settings for the caliper mounting bolts?

 

Have to check the manual. Will get back to you.

The only thing I measure torque on is the lug nuts on the wheels. I have a torque wrench set up for 80 ft-lbs.

I have not measured torque on any other bolts tightened, like the caliper bolts, oil and tranny drain bolts, etc. Maybe because I am used to it. Tight but not too tight is the basic plan.

 

I don't torque everything, but wheel lugs, suspension, and brakes I like to do right. A friend of mine had a caliper come loose on his Porsche Cayanne, right after a brake job (by a Porsche dealer)!

 

Like what happened to me this weekend, I had to remove the front passenger wheel to access the differential oil for my Acura. Got everything done...except the wheel lock was still attached. It was a good thing I did not do a test drive...otherwise I would have lost the key...would have been a WTF moment.

Yes, sometimes it happens even to the good reliable people. Hence, always take the time to check and re-check. Pays off.

 

For my other cars the slide pins are appx 20 ft-lb. If you have to replace the rotors the caliper mount bolts should be about 125!

If anyone has a service manual with the numbers?

 

I have the manual and will take a look and post.

 

Caliper Bolts 77 ft-lbs
Slider bolt 25 ft-lbs