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Hi gearhead,
Just a courtesy update to see if you were successfull getting it running?
No, I wasn’t. I’m not sure where to go next.
I cleaned that cylinder #1 oil out (replacing the coil) I then checked the rest of bank 1 cylinders (3,5) and they were all clean as were bank 2.
I then tried another crank shaft sensor.
Ive checked the IAC valve and even cleaned it all out and replaced it back in.
I have tried TB sensor.
Ive tried MAF sensor.
I left my Bluetooth OBD2 reader in another car, the only code reader I have is a VagCom for Audi/VW & that won’t read non Vag cars.
The only other issue that I have not checked is fuel side, simply bc I do not have a fuel pressure gauge.
Nad suggested I use carb/throttle body cleaner and spray it into the “Y” hose that connects into the air box in between the MAF & TB?
Should I use TB cleaner or starting fuel to spray in their?
UPDATE; The car will turn over & start and then The RPMS will rise sharply to about 1300 rpms for about 2 seconds before suddenly dying out right before what sounds to be like a backfire coming from the exhaust manifold.
Last edited by Gearhead75; Jan 12, 2020 at 08:22 AM.
"Nad suggested I use carb/throttle body cleaner and spray it into the “Y” hose that connects into the air box in between the MAF & TB?
Should I use TB cleaner or starting fuel to spray in their?"
I don't really now because the engines are similar in some ways but mine is 2004 RX330 and I know the fuel system very well but there are
differences on the on the RX300 so someone who has one(RX300) will be able to help more on the fuel delivery because it idles using
different methods. PS- so that method could be reasonable.
I guess what would be great to know beyond any shadow of a doubt is you said car ran good before the TBelt/water pump service- I was just
wondering if you know this for a fact and you personally heard it run or is this based on customers or someone else's testimony.
Also, can you add more details of any other services you performed since the car ran and in addition to doing the TBelt?
Last edited by Margate330; Jan 12, 2020 at 09:43 AM.
I guess what would be great to know beyond any shadow of a doubt is you said car ran good before the TBelt/water pump service- I was just
wondering if you know this for a fact and you personally heard it run or is this based on customers or someone else's testimony.
Also, can you add more details of any other services you performed since the car ran and in addition to doing the TBelt?
yes, the customer drove the car here to my garage before doing the T-belt job.
The services that I’ve done I’ve listed above
cleaning IAV, pulling the plugs, replacing the one dirty coil that had oil in it. Checked the rest, they all were fine.
I replaced all the sensers for the TB, MAF, and IAC valve sensor.
Thats about it
i hooked it up to my OBD2 and no codes pending nor saved.
the second post he mentioned cog is teethed wheel which is there for your crankshaft position sensor to detect the crankshaft. Almost nobody remove or touch that cog when change the timing belt. If you don't think so, ask Salim directly.
that “cog” you speak of isn’t in this diagram is it?
Because I removed the hormonic balancer, and then the plastic timing cover followed by the wheel washer which was the last thing touching the crank. But I did notice when I was putting the belt on, my crank was sliding forward and backwards, but not spinning because of the lil *** it rests on, but I didn’t pull it off, I just pushed it straight back into place. Could I have done something to that “cog?”
It would be the timing belt guide or the flare behind the crank shaft pulley. The cog when it mover near the sensor, produces the pulses needed by the ecu to recognize crank position. If your engine fires up .. and you dont have any CEL then your crank sensor mechanism is working.
Follow the ECU status to trace the timing issues, else you will be following hunches.
When i work on a job and it ran before and now it doesnt, its usually i fckd something up.
Back up for a second and re-trace what you did.
Might as well take everything apart again.
Pay attention to the crank gear and see if any of the teeth were damaged.
Although this would put a cel light on. Maybe.
You also mentioned on the other thread that the Gates belt you installed was tight and had to pry it on even w/out the tensioner in place.
Thats a red flag in my book.
i’d even use the old belt just to see if it runs.
When i work on a job and it ran before and now it doesnt, its usually ****ed something up.
Might as well take everything apart again.
Pay attention to the crank gear and see if any of the teeth were damaged.
Nad, I’ve torn into 3 times to ensure it’s all proper. However, I did notice there were tiny little scratches in the cranks teeth, as if the guy before me used some kind of chain wrench to hold it or something but maybe 4 teeth total had a small lil scratches on them. Not nearly enough to mess up timing. Not as if a tooth was broken or anything.
Hey Nad, should I use carb cleaner to spray into that hose or starting fluid?
Last edited by Gearhead75; Jan 12, 2020 at 03:04 PM.
Hey Nad, should I use carb cleaner to spray into that hose or starting fluid?
Either one will work.
I’d check for spark first as well before spraying.
Yank a coil pack out
Connector still connected
Put a spark plug at the end of the coil.
since this, all started with changing the timing belt did you verify that the timing belt that you got was the correct timing belt? This wouldn't be the first nor the last time that someone replaced parts that they thought were good.
IACV and the throttle body shouldn't have caused any problems if the engine was running fine prior to changing the belt. The ECU has stored adaptive information that might have to be relearned once you messed with the IACV and throttle body. These two items could be the cause of your "backfire". The MAF tells the engine computer how much air is entering the engine, but the throttle body is after the MAF and any leak is unmetered air entering the engine.
Nad, I’ve torn into 3 times to ensure it’s all proper. However, I did notice there were tiny little scratches in the cranks teeth, as if the guy before me used some kind of chain wrench to hold it or something but maybe 4 teeth total had a small lil scratches on them. Not nearly enough to mess up timing.
Just let you know the information on service manual.
"Do not scratch the sensor part of crankshaft timing pulley!"
It mention twice on bold letter when it show removal and installation of the timing pulley(i.e. cog as Salim described )
So I think that may be important for you to judge if that scratches are big enough to cause problem.
BTW, you should measure the cam position sensors for spec. I really don't think they are bad but just eliminate them.
Resistance:
Cold 835 – 1,400 ohm
Hot 1,060 – 1,645 ohm
don't forget there are two of them.
Count the teeth on your timing belt, why? When I put timing belt on my car, it didn't feel any tension, slip on easily. Not like you need to pry it on. Total is 211 teeth. Length: 1688 mm
I found the issue, shoutout to whoever it was that mentioned to check this, I think first Nad and then Salim,thanks guys for all the feedback. Glad this is case closed.
Last edited by Gearhead75; Jan 17, 2020 at 09:57 AM.
I found the issue, shoutout to whoever it was that mentioned to check this, I think first Nad and then Salim,thanks guys for all the feedback. Glad this is case closed.
Been there, done that.
Actually my neighbor dropped this and never told me upon install.
His still idled but threw codes.
Oh well, glad you were able to figure it out and not give up.
