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Parts: ordering from Rock Auto and Toyota Parts Direct.
Seals, valve and head gasket are from TPD.
Timing belt component kit is Aisen, with NTN tensioner and Aisen water pump. Going to try a Fel Pro valve cover gasket and plug seals. Also, gaskets from RA for intake plenum and manifold.
RA has already shipped (ordered 14 hours ago) but TPD seems to have shipping issues. Sigh.
Cleaned all gasket surfaces and re-seated all valves except the one that broke, of course. Lapping was fun and interesting. Got any pitting out and have smooth, clean mating surfaces
Also, the low compression hole looks good, as well as the piston.
Now, we wait.
A question came up as I was placing an order for the exhaust valve.
Of course, I'm measuring stem diameters, length and valve diameters with my caliper on a good valve and on the one that I'm replacing.
As I'm going through RockAuto, I'm checking the specs for their valves and found one that matches for all of $8 which is a far cry from the Toyota/Lexus $62.
Anyway, price aside, since I'm putting a new valve in there, I wondered it I can reuse the old bushing or should I replace it with new? The valve lash is comparable on the bad valve bushing to those of the other cylinders.
Edit: after looking the price of a bushing and a spring seat, the price for both combined is about $10. I think I'll order it anyway.
Status updates: got some parts, put on some parts, waiting for parts.
Mahle head gasket and valve seals - made in Japan, look exactly like oem.
Replaced water pump and tensioner. Both oem.
Old water pump had a stainless steel/rubber edge gasket which may mean timing belt and water pump were replaced once, maybe around the 150k km mark.
RockAuto has been great so far. Delivery to my door, quick and cheap.
Replaced both valve cover gaskets and plug seals with Fel Pro. The rear one was tough to get back on but getting in the engine compartment made it easier. Especially, cleaning the mating surfaces.
The timing belt will be relatively easy at this point but space is really tight in the RX.
Just waiting for the exhaust valve- the whole point of this project. Hopefully, we can re-use the old guide. If not, it’s off to the machine shop to get a new one installed and reamed.
A couple years is all we’re hoping for after all this. So far, just time and a few hundred bucks.
Wow, gone over a week on vacation and I see that you accomplished a lot. Yes, have a machine shop check the valve guide for clearance and replace if necessary along with the valve seals. It appears that your #2 cylinder has a lot of carbon built up which I believe is the caused of your exhaust valve breakage. As carbon started to build up along the exhaust valve it prevented the valve from fully closing. This caused more carbon to build up and eventually the exhaust valve got burned. When the valve closes the aluminum head will act as a heat sink to take away the heat. There are two timing marks on the crankshaft make sure you use the correct one.
Thanks for all the info. I have the same PO302 code for cylinder #2, swapped coils, new plugs, rebuilt injector and still a misfire. Moving on to checking the compression.
Wow, gone over a week on vacation and I see that you accomplished a lot. Yes, have a machine shop check the valve guide for clearance and replace if necessary along with the valve seals. It appears that your #2 cylinder has a lot of carbon built up which I believe is the caused of your exhaust valve breakage. As carbon started to build up along the exhaust valve it prevented the valve from fully closing. This caused more carbon to build up and eventually the exhaust valve got burned. When the valve closes the aluminum head will act as a heat sink to take away the heat. There are two timing marks on the crankshaft make sure you use the correct one.
Thanks for all that great advice. I got the new valve today, and the guides just in case. I took out my calliper and carefully measured the dimensions and compared it to the old valve and they are exactly the same! So, I placed her in the guide along with some other valves and check the fit, Put some assembly lube on it first and gently wiped it off. It seems to fit every bit as good as the other valves, so I’m going to take a chance and reuse the old valve guide, fingers crossed.
Just put in the new valve oil seals. Taking them out was harder on the intake side but I was careful and did not damage any of the cam journals. Are used an awl And a long socket, 10 mm, which seem to fit around the head of the valve seal and seat on the metal housing. Using this I was able to line it up and gently pop them on. Just for good measure I went back and tapped them lightly. The exhaust valve seals are gray and the intake valve seals are copper coloured.
Reason for the difference as far as I can tell it’s because of the diameter of the valve stem shaft.
Thanks for all the info. I have the same PO302 code for cylinder #2, swapped coils, new plugs, rebuilt injector and still a misfire. Moving on to checking the compression.
I have a leak down tester you can buy off me if you want :-)
Well, four valves are put in the first cylinder, cylinder number two. Before I put them in I made sure I cleaned as much carbon out as I could from the exhaust ports. Using the spring compression tool, putting those keepers in was like surgery! I accidentally lost one, and was desperately searching everywhere and finally found it inside one of the spring cylinders right next to it. OMG, was I ever happy! There’s got to be an easier way to do this. Anyone?
Somewhere in this thread, i put a link a tool i use to set keepers on.
It takes me no less than a minute to set 4 valves..
(If it goes correctly) Lol.
It should be easier now that the head is on the bench.
Just in case you wonder whatever happened to the Honda and what a machine shop test for. I use a shop Apex Racing in Bensenville Illinois for all my head works and to hot tank an engine. BTW all exhaust valve guides were replaced on the Honda along with two intake valve guides.
Somewhere in this thread, i put a link a tool i use to set keepers on.
It takes me no less than a minute to set 4 valves..
(If it goes correctly) Lol.
It should be easier now that the head is on the bench.
Lol, Wish I had that tool right now, but the next four went a little bit better. I figured out a little system it seems to be working a lot better.
Just in case you wonder whatever happened to the Honda and what a machine shop test for. I use a shop Apex Racing in Bensenville Illinois for all my head works and to hot tank an engine. BTW all exhaust valve guides were replaced on the Honda along with two intake valve guides. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5J4LGXLHft4
If I had to do it all over again, I’d def recommend taking the head to a shop. Sure, it’ll cost a bit more but those guys know what they’re doing. I’m really taking a chance here doing this work. I definitely would have saved a lot of time. They could probably turn this around in a couple hours.
Update: finished installing all of the valves. I actually got pretty good at putting the keepers back in because when I got to the last valve I realized the spring seat was missing! So, after looking everywhere, I figured I might’ve accidentally put it in one of the other spring seats. After taking all of them off checking and putting them back on again, it was the last one that had two spring seats! Anyways, I was sure glad to find that even though it was a lot of extra work! Did a thorough cleaning of the upper head with solvent and wiped out all the oil stains. Also, did a leak test on the valves. With old spark plugs in, turned the head upside down and poured water in. After 10 mins, no leakage into the intake/exhaust ports. Blew compressed air into the intake and exhaust ports: no bubbles. Checked for water in the ports and saw none. Had to buff out a scratch or two inside the lifter journals and checked with a fine feeler gauge. Lubed up the buckets with assembly lube and put them all back in order and checked for binding. Tomorrow, I’ll put the head back on with the new gasket and the old headbolts, reinstall the camshaft and the new camshaft seal, and then pop that valve cover back on. Right now, I think it’s time for a rum.
06-05-19, 07:08 AM
