Car starts but won't hold idle and stalls
03-01-19, 02:29 PM
#1
Car starts but won't hold idle and stalls
This is the first time I've ever had this problem. 40 F here in Dallas today. Drove the car a mile to grocery store and it was fine. An hour later, I try and start the car, it starts but won't hold idle and stalls. If I give gas it runs, but the second i let go of gas it stalls. I managed to drive the car home (two footed) giving a bit of gas the entire time.
Where can I begin to troubleshoot?
Where can I begin to troubleshoot?
03-01-19, 02:42 PM
#2
Lexus Test Driver
This is the first time I've ever had this problem. 40 F here in Dallas today. Drove the car a mile to grocery store and it was fine. An hour later, I try and start the car, it starts but won't hold idle and stalls. If I give gas it runs, but the second i let go of gas it stalls. I managed to drive the car home (two footed) giving a bit of gas the entire time.
Where can I begin to troubleshoot?
Where can I begin to troubleshoot?
Or idle air control valve
Comon problem on older/high mileage 1MZ motors.
03-02-19, 12:49 PM
#3
Nad1370 is right. I happened to my Toyota Avalon 1995 which had the same engine because of dirty, carbon built up Idle Air Control valve. In addition to starting problems, it can cause engine stalls at red traffic light.
I'm glad you were home safe. It' not fun at all to drive a vehicle with two feet.
I'm glad you were home safe. It' not fun at all to drive a vehicle with two feet.
Last edited by 99RX300PDX; 03-02-19 at 12:56 PM.
03-03-19, 07:18 AM
#4
Pit Crew
Yeah, classic IAC symptoms. I finally had to just replace my IAC because the "cleanings" were not working for a long enough time. I bought the Standard Motor IAC from RockAuto, which is working quite well. It's not an easy job, but worth the effort. I was able to bench clean the throttle body as well, and you would not believe the amount of brown crap I got out of the TB. And if you do this job, take the opportunity to change spark plugs as well, and consider changing the coil-on-plugs...you'll reduce the probability of having to take the intake plumbing off your engine again. It's a weekend project, for sure.
03-04-19, 11:23 AM
#5
Instructor
Yeah, classic IAC symptoms. I finally had to just replace my IAC because the "cleanings" were not working for a long enough time. I bought the Standard Motor IAC from RockAuto, which is working quite well. It's not an easy job, but worth the effort. I was able to bench clean the throttle body as well, and you would not believe the amount of brown crap I got out of the TB. And if you do this job, take the opportunity to change spark plugs as well, and consider changing the coil-on-plugs...you'll reduce the probability of having to take the intake plumbing off your engine again. It's a weekend project, for sure.
03-05-19, 01:09 PM
#6
OP here. Thanks for all the replies. I followed a video on youtube and removed the airbox and hoses to reach the IAC valve. Unfortunately stripped one of the screws but eventually got it off with vice grip, and then replaced both with hex head screws from Lowe's (5x80). Sprayed Berryman Throttle Cleaner in throttle body and the little hole. Put everythink back together and seems ok. Will monitor closely all week.
Idle was at approx 1K. How do I know what normal is?
Idle was at approx 1K. How do I know what normal is?
03-05-19, 01:31 PM
#7
Pit Crew
My Normal cold is about 1300, warm about 700...these just from eye-balling the tach. The old IAC was not performing well...I think cold was about 1000, warm about 700-600, and when the A/C would come on in hot weather, the engine would almost stall out. The new IAC handles the A/C load well, and instantly brings the idle up to about 900.
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