Hey all,

Dropped something in the garage, and when I went down to pick it up I noticed some drops of fluid under the rear of the RX. So immediately I thought it was the rear differential, but it looks dry and doesn't seem to be the cause of the fluid.

It appears the bushing leaked "fluid" of some sort. Was curious if anyone know whether these bushing are liquid filled? The fluid seems water like in viscosity.

Not planning on replacing the bushings, it's nearly time to retire the old girl. Will keep an eye on the bushing although I know it's been cracked this badly for a few years now. I've been driving the RX incredibly hard the last few weeks (b/c of the low gas prices), perhaps that pushed the bushing to fail.

Here are some pictures of the bushing and the fluid (don't mind the rust!! lol):

 

Not to nitpick, but the proper name is "differential mount" ... like engine mount/transmission mount. Bushing is used to support two items which move and a bearings are used when the movement is exaggerated (spin).

Yes, they are oil filled to reduce vibration transfer.

Time to press them out and press in new ones. I hope you can find a way to switch them without removing the diff.

You may find more info on SC/GS/IS forum on differentials.

Salim

 

Yes, I figured someone would point out the proper name, thanks for that!

I don't plan on replacing them at the moment. The RX is getting old, as of now the plan is to drive it through the winter, and come summer find a replacement DD. I haven't put any money into the RX over the years in terms of repairs, I don't think I should start now. It's been an amazing car, a true Toyota!

 

imho, please estimate the cost of repair. It may be lot cheaper and worth doing. This is one of those items where a stitch in time saves nine. Drive-line problems have a strange way of multiplying. Must be the torque and gearing ratios in play.

Salim

 

You make a valid point, however the RX also needs a set of tires if I plan on driving it past this winter. And, more importantly, the rack and pinion appears to be on it's way out.

Would it be beneficial to use "3M window-weld" which is polyurethane and fill in the differential mount temporarily? It appears many have done this on other cars, and it's worked well.

 

for the amount of time you may spend to remove and lay the differential mount horizontally and use the 3M window weld, it may be worth the extra spend to press in a new mount. I would guess the total would be around $100 if you were to remove and replace yourself. The catalogs show them to be around 45... a local garage/machine shop should be able to press out/in the new mount around 50.

http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...165148030.html

if you definitely planning on selling and you are not feeling vibrations that bother you..id consider leaving it alone and disclosing it to the potential buyer. After-all its a high mileage vehicle and wear and tear is expected.

 

If I went the window weld method, I'd leave everything in place and then shoot it into there. No need to remove it, as it's pretty sticky even when applying it.

I'm assuming that to replace the bushing, I'd have to drop the differential. And, that's a can of worms I don't want to bother with.

I'm not 100% on selling it, but it definitely will not be my daily driver next year. I do hear a clunk though, which I'm certain is from this mount. No vibration that I can link to this.

 

Note I am writing this sitting behind a computer and I have not done this or even had a first hand visual as I have FWD and what I am writing is based on my work with SC.

The problem is that the mounts are part of the frame. You can not detatch it and take it to a shop to press-out and in. The mounts have to to pushed out in-place .. under the vehicle and new ones inserted in place too. If you have the right size pusher/cup you can use or build the tool. See the discussion in SC/LS forum.

Related to that is the position/plane of the mounts. Fastnoypi is reminding us that the mounts are in vertical plane and what you fill will flow out. It will be like pouring concrete without the forms.

Salim

PS: It seems most of the folks call it the bushing ... I guess it is just me who kept on saying the millennium happens 2001 and not 2000.

 

I've used the 3m window weld before to install a windshield on another car, and it's very sticky. I don't think it will flow out even when applying it vertically.

haha, i just realized I called it a bushing again in the last post! sorry!

I'll do some searching in the SC and LS forums, to see what I can come up with.

 

I took a short video of the bushing when moving between R and D to see the movement. It's pretty clear now that I need to do something about this.

I'll keep you all updated on what I decide.

 

This morning I checked mine car shifting between R and D, I have the same problems like yours, it's moving up and down , there are 2 mounts , the one on the left also movement, on the video only show center mount, mine is not leaking oil but cracked .

 

I"m not sure that much movement is unusual.

 

Enthusiasts are opting for a metal piece to have no give, but that makes the vehicle ride less smooth ... go cart vs daily driver. imho it matters more if you have rwd.

For those who are considering changing the mount, please mark how the factory one is installed. They are oriented specifically to handle movement.

I have come across a bandaid solution to fill the cavity with RTV sealant ... may have to build it up. Personally I would replace it. Loan a tool (which has multiple cups which need not be exact) and get large washers to make exact pusher.

Salim

 

The other mount isn't cracked on my RX, but yes it does have movement which I believe is regular.