No! Dont use a file. Get a reamer of the right size or fine sandpaper wrapped on a dowel. File leaves gouges.

Salim

 

A reamer is meant to enlarge an existing hole. A proper sized drill bit as you suggested earlier would work well without risking tapering of the hole.

If its really just the slide hole, a few applications of naval jelly should eat away at the remaining rust. Just hose off the area well when finished and relube when acceptable.

 

There are two types of reamers, tapered and straight (aka dowel reamers). Tapered, are the ones that reshape the holes. One I am suggesting are the ones used to smoothen the holes that are created by drilling. They polish the holes. Hence my assertion through out that it should be of the right diameter.

Salim

 

didn't know dowel reamers existed..glad to learn something new! In that case, those would work.
I would guess they would be more a speciality tool for manufacturing considering the precision nature.

To throw out yet another solution, would be a gun cleaning brush aka bore brush.

 

Ok, so I know not to use the file method. Thanks for that information. Now, does anyone happen to know what the exact diameter of the hole is?

Mark

 

Thats where you need a machinist. Us DIYers will take a brush ... gun cleaning was a good suggestion. Just roll a fine emery paper and make several passes.

Salim

 

Well the saga continues. I got new pads for the rear as the one side was shot from the pin problem. I installed them and re-greased everything. All looked good with the parking brake shoes.
I adjusted the the shoes to the rotor and everything was good. I ran it down the street and a few blocks later there was a big bang and grinding then the wheel stopped turning. I crawled it back home and checked. The adjuster was rotted on one end and it came off then the shoes were banging around. Everything was busted up including the shoe lever and the anchor pin at the top was sheared off the backing plate. Now I can get the shoes and the parking brake kit with all the hardware. The trouble is the anchor pin and the lever. Do you need to get a whole new backing plate or can you replace the pin only? Because those backing plates are expensive.

Mark

 

By the way you are describing it is part of the casting of the backing plate. Also confirmed by the parts diagram. Yoiu will need a new backing plate unless i am interpreting your description differently.

http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...category=21744

 

Yeah, that is exactly what I'm talking about. The anchor pin on the top portion of the plate was sheared off so I can't connect the retaining springs for the shoes when I get a new set.. I guess I will try to find a used on because that is really expensive.

Mark

 

As a cheap solution..since its really just a support for the springs...depending how much material is there..perhaps a local welder can weld a dowel/bolt in its place.

The best scenario is to find a local wrecking yard that would have the backing plate from another lexus or toyota with and identical rear brake. Its crazy that piece is over $200.

Good luck!

 

Yeah it is crazy. It sucks because the part where the brake shoes rest on is still there. It's really just the tip that's broken off. I have been checking scrap yards and they all don't have it. Still looking. Is the hub pressed onto the spindle or is it just bolted to it?

Mark

 

for the rears..i would guess the hub depends if you are awd or fwd..
I have an awd, but i haven't checked a fwd for physical comparison. It makes sense that they would be different.

 

I have an AWD as well. It looks like it just bolts on according to the diagram.

Mark

 

I am having a hell of a time trying to find the rear hub bearing assembly for the AWD ABS model. I guess the ABS doesn't really matter because the the ABS sensor metal ring is actually attached to the CV joint anyway, at least on my model (2003). I know I can obtain the Lexus OEM part but the price is totally insane.

Mark

 

Hi,
I received the backing plate and I bought it for about 60.00$ CAD plus shipping. It has the Toyota part # on it and the place seems to be pretty reputable. I believe they only ship through Canada. Once I remove the axle bolt, drive the axle through, and remove the assembly retaining nuts, I will remove the whole assembly with the backing plate. I was wondering if the hub bearing assembling would slide out of the backing plate hole at an angle. I ask because the backing plate has the bolts already attached to it and the only way for the bearing assembly to attach is between the plate and the knuckle.

Thanks,
Mark