Just checking in fellas...I see my old thread still going strong years later... I did love my old RX.... just a nice driving / riding vehicle...

 

Still the most popular thread ever

 

Can you provide the colors of the wires and which one is 1 and 2? Thanks

 

There are pictures in the thread

 

Now that’s funny. And true.

 

The instructions were great with the pictures and notes. I completed the hack. My 2001 Lexus RX300 was giving the P0330 code. The hack It allowed it to change into 4th gear however the engine light and VSC light came back on after around 20 miles. The P0330 code is gone. There is now a P1351 code after the hack. The car runs great with 193k miles. I just had the timing belt, water pump, belt, alternator replaced. The P0330 code was still on after that work. I decided to try the hack, like everyone else I don't have $ for the replacement of knock sensors. Any reason this new code P1351 is on now after the hack? I am new here. I've tried to find other information on this code in the P0330 hack thread but can't find anything. Your comments, help is greatly appreciated.

 

P1351 is telling the you oil control valves are not doing their job. Search this forum for P1351 also see this thread
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ement-diy.html

That code doesn't generally show up when the knock sensors are bad because the ECU is not doing full cam phasing when you have a CEL.

 

Thank you for the reply. I disconnected the clear white and black wire, then reconnected just to make completely sure that was not the issue. I am reading the other thread you sent for the P1351 code. .

 

I recently replaced my spark plugs and engine coils. I didn’t have a torque wrench sure I followed the directions of how much to wrench it without the torque. Afterwards my car drove poorly and it was obvious I needed to do better with wrenching the spark plugs. I completely loosened them all, and more confidently followed the “torquing” directions. My car drove around town much better and my gas mileage was back to 20-24 mpg, then soon as I got it up to speed on the highway it started driving like **** again (like all the descriptions in this thread) and the engine light came back on, P0330. I’ve been driving it for a couple weeks and sometimes it’s fine and there’s no light, and sometimes its **** with the light. But regardless of how well it seems to be driving my mpg is around 15-18. The other night the wind was bad and my mpg was 12 😵.

Could this code have anything to do with the spark plugs or engine coil replacements?

Is this hack a legitimate solution or a bandaid for a problem that might end up worse later on?

Oh! Another important detail… after the spark plug/engine coil replacements, Code P139 came on along with the P0330. I’ve since replaced the VVT Solenoids. Are the two codes related in anyway?

 

Spark plugs abd coils:
In my opinion these should be only OEM parts. Did the coils need replacement is another question?
Torquing the plugs is something I could only do for the front. I never removed the intake so getting a torque wrench was impossible for me.

Hack legality issue:
Legality issues can vary by state. Here in Texas, tampering, altering, defeating emission related monitors and wiring is illegal. After a vehicle crosses over to antique status, passing emission standard is not required. With the knock sensor error code, your vehicle will get into limp mode, which you can clear with OBD but after a while the frequency will be so much that an owner will get tired.

Ethical and moral issues: [Leaving it blank, but I am concerned that when an owner sells or trade the vehicle, the fact is hidden or not disclosed]

Real and Legal fix: Everything needs to be diagnosed and hacks are good for diagnosis purpose. If the sensor(s) has gone bad then it needs to be replaced. Once again only use OEM sensor and connecting harness which must be matched to your VIN. So contact on line Lexus dealer parts. You will need gaskets which must be replaced. Check out the DIY.

Damage: The purpose of the knock sensor is to adjust timing based on pre-ignition determination by the knock sensors. With bad info [bad sensor] the computer is going crazy trying to adjust. With fake information it may not adjust at all. I cant say with certainty which might be the case. Unburnt fuel will cost you lost energy plus cat failure. Knock will cause piston bore issues.

What would I do:
For a while use the OBD to clear repeatedly as needed to get out of the limp mode. Diagnose and fix all other issues, including ditching non OEM plugs and coils. Once you are down to knock sensor issue only, then sit down and decide what you want to do.

Salim

 

Cwsteini,

So based on what you said here, if I have knock sensor codes, and my car is driving like **** to match, and my oil is disappearing for no apparent reason, I should replace the catalytic converters?

Thank you for the clarification!

 

When a knock sensor code is reported the car will go into limp mode and run rough. The code is specific to the knock sensors and the knock sensor circuit and is unrelated to the plugs, coils, and VVT solenoids.

 

thank you，booster😊
I did exactly what you posted ,using 3-way pushin connectors fixed my rx300 2003 in 10 minutes, saved me from changing sensors stuff

 

I have probably missed this in my scanning of almost 300 posts. The knock sensors are connected to a solid black wire and a clear/or white wire. My code is 325. Which color wire goes to which knock sensor?
Again, forgive me if I've overlooked the answer to my question.

Update: White is #1, and black is #2

 

Sadly the hack would not work for me. Seems that both knock sensors have died at 153k miles. And... having to drive any distance in "limp mode" is a frightening experience. Top speed was 53MPH. Plus the moaning and groaning from under the hood.
I was stuck with having to use the interstate. Damn car would hardly get out of its own way. Scary.

Time to shell out the big bucks. Rats.