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I just picked up filters. Although there is a part number for the O-rings, it seems to me the parts guy told me it included with the purchase of the filter itself. They're not here, so I can't look right now.
My best recollection is that the filters are under another bolt-head.
Just make sure you remember the direction the filters come out and you need to install them the same way. They are conical, so if you have them reversed, they get crushed instead of seating well.
The filters can be cleaned too. I would replace the gaskets (O rings).
I have been trying everything for weeks. My VVT is completely seized and won't budge. Most of the out lip has broken off and I have a bolt threaded mostly through it. I have tried to pry it out with a crow bar, beat the crow bar with a hammer. Nothing breaks this free. I am now considering chemical methods. Would CRC Freeze Off work? Does anyone have any other ideas? I am at a complete loss and about to sell to a junk yard. Car has 250000 miles a these are most likely the original VVT's.
Gentle back an forth will eventually free it up. Brute force may tip it one way making extraction harder. I recall reseating it couple of times. The O ring has most likely dried up and has become stiff.
I have been trying everything for weeks. My VVT is completely seized and won't budge. Most of the out lip has broken off and I have a bolt threaded mostly through it. I have tried to pry it out with a crow bar, beat the crow bar with a hammer. Nothing breaks this free. I am now considering chemical methods. Would CRC Freeze Off work? Does anyone have any other ideas? I am at a complete loss and about to sell to a junk yard. Car has 250000 miles a these are most likely the original VVT's.
If you have a bolt mostly threaded through it, there is an examples of several guys on youtube that borrowed a slide hammer with hub adapter to get his vvt solenoid out the rest of the way.
It was my turn to replace these this weekend. Thanks so much to everyone who contributed to this great DIY.
I had the weird low speed hesitation for a week before it threw a P1349. I had already cleaned the throttle body and IACV a few days earlier.
My solenoids came out pretty easily. The filters were odd in that they were detached from the bolts and had to be fished out. I used a flexible claw parts grabber to extract them.
I took the car for a long test drive and gas mileage is way up. I've been seeing around 17 MPG for years, and tonight it was around 22.
Does that make sense? If it stays like this I will be thrilled, and also annoyed I didn't change them years ago.
Mine threw a code after many years and when I pulled them out the filters were clean and when i bench tested both, they both tested out fine. I reinstalled them and had many years (~5) of code free service.
I did have to fight with one of them as it would turn but not come out. Patience finally prevailed.
The solenoid does change the timing so it can impact fuel consumption.
Thanks for taking the time to explain this process. This nails one of my 99 Lexus RC300 issues. Ordering the Dorman Left and Right parts now and thanks to your detailed article, will install and save RX for another day.
Just my 2 cents in trying to clarify how to disconnect the VVT (Oil Control Valve, signal connector, and finding and pulling both filter screens.
Replaced Bank 2 VVT which was fairly easy, but not Bank 1 as of now. Only disconnected one hose by the Bank 2 VCC to replace it. Removed the air filter and container (two clips, several bolts, and the connecting signal cables and tubes) to access Bank 2 VCC filter, and it also helped access Bank 1 filter. When I dare to start removing more hoses, I will change out Bank 1 VVT.
Bank 2 filter screen bolt head picture. Bolt was very hard to remove, had to use breaker bar.
Filter came out still attached to bolt. Quite dirty.
Bank 1 located near firewall and lower than bank 2. Filter cover bolt is reachable without removing any hoses. When bolt removed, filter did not come with it. Tried to carefully snag the filter but failed. Was successful using a properly diameter flex hose and a slight vacuum. Place one end of the flex just inside the filter hole and I inhaled on the other end. Had to careful do a few time before the filter emerged. Picture below shows it partially emerging.
Hope my 2 cents helps. Great pictures and comments from others on this thread. THANKS
------------------------------------------- Update -------------------------------------
Relative to cleaning the filter screens: After soaking them in brake fluid overnight, much of the gunk came off. I then placed them in clean brake fluid, soaked them for a few more hours, and more gunk came off, but the screen were still not really clean. Using more clean brake fluid in a cup, place them in the cup that was placed inside of a bowl of hot water. After a few more hours in the warm brake fluid, I gently held each under a stream of hot water. Then they became really clean. See Picture below.
Last edited by Avogel; 12-29-18 at 04:37 PM.
Reason: Added process used to clean filter screens
I was able to change out Bank 2 VVT and Bank1 and 2 filter screens. Having much trouble with the pulling Bank 1 VVT out the engine.
Removed the signal cable and the small bolt. At first, the VVT rotate but with some tpping on the bolt eye and applying as much strength as I could, it finally broke free and can be rotate about 180 degrees, until either the bolt eye or plug hits something. Twisting it back and forth while pulling, the VVT did not come out at all. Used a screw driver under the bolt eye tried to pry it up, tapped on the top of it, tried to put oil between the VVT and engine, used vice grips and tired to pull it out while twisting, nothing worked.
So any ideas? Bank 1 VVT. Can rotate but not extract.
================== UPDATE 7PM 30Dec2018 ===============
While trying again to extract the Bank 1 VVT (picture is of the Bank 2 VVT I already replaced), it appears that the upper part of the VVT that is above the engine (blue arrow) is turning independently of the lower part that is inside the engine (red arrow). It feels like the lower part is welded into place (hopefully not).
If no one suggest something to try, that is successful, I plan to replace everything I disconnected and try to start and run the engine for a few seconds. I have two clean filter screens and one new Bank 2 VVT installed. Then try to pull Bank 1 VVT again.
Just saw some suggestions on removing a stuck/broken VVT. But these only work when the top of the VVT is broken and the bottom/sleeve is in the engine block.
“fastnoypi If you have a bolt mostly threaded through it, there is an examples of several guys on youtube that borrowed a slide hammer with hub adapter to get his vvt solenoid out the rest of the way”
I did everything. The RX keeps shaking in idle while parked. Check engine light is off until it starts driving. Then it comes on and flashes. Need help figuring out what is happening. Brand new selenoids and cleaned filters. Asking for help please!t
Same codes as your other post? Misfire in 2,4,6 and a bank 2 VVT failure?
The non-misfire code should be fixed before the misfire ones.
P1354 diagnosis says
Valve timing
Oil control valve
VVT controller assembly
Engine ECU
I believe valve timing refers to the timing belt.
You did the oil control valve and filter, hopefully they are ok
Don't know about the VVT controller assembly
The only code I have so far is P0302. No other codes. I disconnected the wire from that coil and there was no change in the car. The other coils when disconnected there was a huge difference in the engine. I don't know what the matter is.
03-22-18, 09:00 PM
Excellent explaination and pictures
Stuck Bank 1 VVT - will not come out of engine
