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RX300: DIY door lock actuator fix write-up
08-02-18, 08:06 AM
#331
Fixed my right front door lock last night, using the Issyzone actuator from Amazon. $17.99 for an actuator vs $5 for a motor (I did the left rear back in 2011), but the reduced effort is worth it. Didn't even have to remove the door handle - I just replaced it while the whole thing was hanging from the door.
Judging by the condition of the plastic dirt cover (loose and taped in place) and the wood control panel (front clip broken off) - somebody had already been in here once before. I was actually quite surprised that this lock had (seemingly) lasted 18 yrs/220k miles before it failed - so maybe it had already been replaced before I got the car.
I struggled a bit because something seemed to be preventing the new actuator to go to the fully locked position. I pulled it out again and discovered a small rubber strip jamming the arm. It's possible this was the only real problem with the old actuator.
Judging by the condition of the plastic dirt cover (loose and taped in place) and the wood control panel (front clip broken off) - somebody had already been in here once before. I was actually quite surprised that this lock had (seemingly) lasted 18 yrs/220k miles before it failed - so maybe it had already been replaced before I got the car.
I struggled a bit because something seemed to be preventing the new actuator to go to the fully locked position. I pulled it out again and discovered a small rubber strip jamming the arm. It's possible this was the only real problem with the old actuator.
Last edited by owenstrawn; 08-02-18 at 08:10 AM.
09-07-18, 12:49 PM
#332
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Delaware
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Actuator replacement not working
Drivers door actuator wasn't working with, would neither lock or unlock. Key worked fine, once for drivers door, then 2nd time for other doors.. All other doors worked fine w/ remote. I replaced actuator w/ aftermarket. Now, drivers door still doesn't work, all other 3 doors are fine. BUT, now , when I enter the car and shut the door, all other locks except drivers seem to lock then unlock automatically. PLUS, key will now not unlock the other 3 doors, MUST be done w/ remote. PLUS, if I don't unlock all the doors (front w/ key, other 3 with remote, and open just the drivers door, alarm goes off) Is there some other programming I am missing?
09-07-18, 01:24 PM
#333
FWIW, I've noticed my Issyzone actuator on the passenger front causes all locks to unlock twice whenever that door is shut - but only when the ignition is on. Otherwise everything else works normally. I figured I must have pinched a wire or something but I haven't had the chance to troubleshoot it yet.
09-08-18, 09:20 AM
#335
Moderator
Just be on the safe side and leave the door panel off for couple of days. We have a few reported cases of door shut locked and the panel in the way of a repair/fix
Salim
01-02-19, 05:03 PM
#336
Driver School Candidate
Thanks to everyone who has posted before me. Ya'll rock!
I just did 4 doors (not the hatch) in 5 hours. I'm happy.
I'd like to add to the informational part of this thread.
The front door wood grain panels for the window controls do come out VERY easy after you've done the first one. There is a clip towards the front that holds the panel down. This clip can be pressed once you start to pry the panel up. All the directions listed are correct BUT once you lift the panel even a 1/4" you can see a black piece of metal, that is the clip. Push it towards the back of the car and the panel will jump out.
Next when you cut the acuator apart start at the plug end where there is plenty of overhang of the glued joint. Once you get in, use a second razor or pocket screwdriver to follow your cut. This will allow the razor to cut new material more easily.
Those of you that tend to try to inprove on everything (like me) DON'T. I tried to relubricate the gear in the housing. Let me tell you this. When you hear a spronggggg! , you're in for a little bit of work to reload the gear with the spring hidden below.
This is simple enough if you just swap the motor and push the extra greese already in there around onto the wear marks. I had to wait until I took the other back door apart to see how to get this thing back together. Just lift the cover and replace the motor, don't play with the stuff in there.
On the front panels there is a screw towards the back of the handle that you use to shut the door. Just sit on the ground and look up, you'll see it. There is nothing covering it.
There is a lot of talk mentioning the cables. I did not take any cables loose or apart. I found that once the white dust sheild was removed (only 2 screws) I could turn the actuator and unhook the cables.
Thanks again to all the brave souls that tried this before me and took the time to write down their experiance.
I just did 4 doors (not the hatch) in 5 hours. I'm happy.
I'd like to add to the informational part of this thread.
The front door wood grain panels for the window controls do come out VERY easy after you've done the first one. There is a clip towards the front that holds the panel down. This clip can be pressed once you start to pry the panel up. All the directions listed are correct BUT once you lift the panel even a 1/4" you can see a black piece of metal, that is the clip. Push it towards the back of the car and the panel will jump out.
Next when you cut the acuator apart start at the plug end where there is plenty of overhang of the glued joint. Once you get in, use a second razor or pocket screwdriver to follow your cut. This will allow the razor to cut new material more easily.
Those of you that tend to try to inprove on everything (like me) DON'T. I tried to relubricate the gear in the housing. Let me tell you this. When you hear a spronggggg! , you're in for a little bit of work to reload the gear with the spring hidden below.
This is simple enough if you just swap the motor and push the extra greese already in there around onto the wear marks. I had to wait until I took the other back door apart to see how to get this thing back together. Just lift the cover and replace the motor, don't play with the stuff in there.
On the front panels there is a screw towards the back of the handle that you use to shut the door. Just sit on the ground and look up, you'll see it. There is nothing covering it.
There is a lot of talk mentioning the cables. I did not take any cables loose or apart. I found that once the white dust sheild was removed (only 2 screws) I could turn the actuator and unhook the cables.
Thanks again to all the brave souls that tried this before me and took the time to write down their experiance.
07-25-19, 10:16 AM
#337
Update on my Issyzone/Amazon actuator: It stopped working after less than a year. Plus the double-unlock issue and the can't key-unlock without setting off alarm issues. Definitely would not recommend.
Bought another mabuchi off eBay and will rebuild the old actuator instead. Lesson learned.
Bought another mabuchi off eBay and will rebuild the old actuator instead. Lesson learned.
07-25-19, 12:41 PM
#338
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: VA
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Update on my Issyzone/Amazon actuator: It stopped working after less than a year. Plus the double-unlock issue and the can't key-unlock without setting off alarm issues. Definitely would not recommend.
Bought another mabuchi off eBay and will rebuild the old actuator instead. Lesson learned.
Bought another mabuchi off eBay and will rebuild the old actuator instead. Lesson learned.
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Briand_OH (08-14-19)
08-11-19, 06:16 PM
#340
Driver School Candidate
Want to thank everyone for all the informative posts in this thread. I was able to take my driver’s door apart, take out the old actuator assembly and swap out the motor. I was able to put everything back together and all was well. However, the next day, I noticed that even when I used the key fob to lock the doors and the car beeped to indicate it was locked, the driver’s door was still unlocked and that I need to manually lock it.
While the actuator was disassembled, I was trying to figure out how the two white plastic pieces that swivel on the actuator assembly fit into the ball joint on the rest of the latch assembly. It looks like the two white plastic pieces are supposed to move in unison - when the actuator is triggered by the fob, it will flip positions, and it should flip the physical door lock switch as well. But as I was moving the arms on the latch assembly around and testing the cables, it seemed like the two would slip frequently and that the actuator would not flip the physical door lock switch.
Did I miss something when I was putting everything back together?
While the actuator was disassembled, I was trying to figure out how the two white plastic pieces that swivel on the actuator assembly fit into the ball joint on the rest of the latch assembly. It looks like the two white plastic pieces are supposed to move in unison - when the actuator is triggered by the fob, it will flip positions, and it should flip the physical door lock switch as well. But as I was moving the arms on the latch assembly around and testing the cables, it seemed like the two would slip frequently and that the actuator would not flip the physical door lock switch.
Did I miss something when I was putting everything back together?
08-11-19, 06:21 PM
#341
Moderator
If your door lock action is reversed [locks when unlocked or unlocks when locked], you may have an inverted polarity motor. Not sure if this addresses your problem.
Salim
Salim
08-11-19, 06:45 PM
#342
Driver School Candidate
I considered whether the polarity was a factor, but all working fine when I first put everything together - everything was locking and unlocking as it should, so I don’t think the inverted polarity motor was the problem.
I just don’t understand how the mechanism with the two white tabs on the actuator works, since it seems like they are not connected to one another and can move independently, even though they need to move together in order to make everything work.
I just don’t understand how the mechanism with the two white tabs on the actuator works, since it seems like they are not connected to one another and can move independently, even though they need to move together in order to make everything work.
08-14-19, 09:45 PM
#343
I want to thank you for this thread. 
Back in 2013, I replaced one of the motors in one of the 4 doors. (according to my Amazon order history) Pretty sure it was one of the front door locks, since I have no recollection of opening up the rear doors. I do remember it being pretty quick and painless. I also remember reading this thread carefully back then and printed out notes so I could follow them in the driveway.
6 years flew by and now it's 2019. One of the other 3 door actuator motors just gave out a few days ago. I'm going to deal with that one tomorrow, if it doesn't rain. I'm old and lazy now, so I'll only do it when it actually fails.
There are now many YouTube videos with clear instructions, in case anyone else needs visual help. (search for RX300 door lock actuator replacement on YouTube)
Thanks again!:
Two such videos: (if they were posted by anyone from ClubLexus, thanks!)
Back in 2013, I replaced one of the motors in one of the 4 doors. (according to my Amazon order history) Pretty sure it was one of the front door locks, since I have no recollection of opening up the rear doors. I do remember it being pretty quick and painless.
I also remember reading this thread carefully back then and printed out notes so I could follow them in the driveway. 6 years flew by and now it's 2019. One of the other 3 door actuator motors just gave out a few days ago. I'm going to deal with that one tomorrow, if it doesn't rain. I'm old and lazy now, so I'll only do it when it actually fails.
There are now many YouTube videos with clear instructions, in case anyone else needs visual help. (search for RX300 door lock actuator replacement on YouTube)
Thanks again!:
Two such videos: (if they were posted by anyone from ClubLexus, thanks!)
08-15-19, 09:37 AM
#344
Edit:
strange... it appears that the passenger-side rear door actuator motor has gone kaput again. it's the same one that I replaced 6 years ago(2013). The motor was $10 back in 2013 and it last 6 years, so I guess I can't really complain.
the other 3 doors are still the original actuators and still working fine.... I did a preemptive replacement of the front passenger door lock as well. It was only opening/closing 80% of the time. The front door actuator was much easier to take out, but reconnecting the rods back to the plastic pieces was a real pain for my giant hands.
PSA: don't be a big idiot like me and work on the door locks under 103-degree scorching sun at 12 noon. I almost passed out. Also, my fingers got burned from leaving the tools out in the sun.
By the way, some of the black sticky glue around the plastic film protecting the door is not very sticky anymore. What kind of black glue can I get from the auto parts store to reinforce that?
Thanks!
strange... it appears that the passenger-side rear door actuator motor has gone kaput again. it's the same one that I replaced 6 years ago(2013). The motor was $10 back in 2013 and it last 6 years, so I guess I can't really complain.
the other 3 doors are still the original actuators and still working fine.... I did a preemptive replacement of the front passenger door lock as well. It was only opening/closing 80% of the time. The front door actuator was much easier to take out, but reconnecting the rods back to the plastic pieces was a real pain for my giant hands.
PSA: don't be a big idiot like me and work on the door locks under 103-degree scorching sun at 12 noon. I almost passed out. Also, my fingers got burned from leaving the tools out in the sun.
By the way, some of the black sticky glue around the plastic film protecting the door is not very sticky anymore. What kind of black glue can I get from the auto parts store to reinforce that?
Thanks!
Last edited by BlueCrabby; 08-15-19 at 11:48 AM.
08-15-19, 11:52 AM
#345
Moderator
When you say "not sticky" is it too soft .. could be the heat to too hard (age). There should be a few options in the auto store .. I prefer 3M products over others.
Salim
Salim