I bought 7 quarts of German Castrol 0W30 today (FYI: $43). I hope it will be enough to fill the new completely dry engine.

The head shop is charging me $1000 more than the previous quote (totaling $4590 + tax) because the short block needs to be replaced with a new one. There was so much friction as it almost scratched a hole on the rear wall. The wall became too thin and there is a risk it will blow up if the original block is used.

Mechanics diagnosed it as "Complete Engine removal, machine shop rebuild and re-installation due to Oil Sludge Damage. The engine oil was checked 3 weeks earlier during diagnostics of electrical system. Oil required to be changed after another 2500 miles."

They are also gonna replace Water Pump, Oil Pump, Idlers, Timing Cover Seals, Timing Belt and both Drive Belts (with my parts except the Timing Belt and Oil Pump) at no cost. Of course, A/C is also going to be refilled.

Called the dealer yesterday, they told me to fax the Title, Repair Order, and some proof of regular oil changes to them so they can reimburse it. I still don't believe in it!

It is very interesting that the cylinder blocks for AWD and FWD are different. For real! The one for AWD in of different shape and has a bracket on the back side so the front transfer case will fit.
Look at the pictures, the transfer case is where the axles are attached:

 

Those are interesting photos

 

Nice pictures on the vacated engine bay, thanks for posting back what mechanics found out.

Apparently, the sudden oil leak and burning are caused by sludge formation. I have long suspected that many seal leaks found on the 1mzfe could be caused by a layer of sludge blocking seal conditioning additives (which are one of the basic additives in any synthetic or dino oil) from keeping seals soft and pliable. Once hardened, seals deform/break, so covering the leak with thick oil merely covers the problem but never solve the root cause. Of couse, "sweeping dirt under the rag" approach tends to lead to bigger engine problem and huge repair $ later.

Post more photos if you have some when engine is opened up.

 

Hey, do you need badges? I have a complete set mistakenly sent to me.
I don't need them:

 

It is in a head shop right now. I will try to get in there and make some photos.

 

Great, would like to see how cam lobes are wearing, you might have to wipe the sludge off to see the metal.
Lexmex took a picture of his engine recently, I noticed he has minor cam lobe wear. See circled area in 3rd picture, pretty decent condition considering he has put >100K of hard miles.

Also saw another 97 Avalon with 125K, the cam lobe was worse looking, no sludge but a lot of vanish.
Cam lobe wear

Vanish, not sludge


Would be interesting to see how yours look like.

 

TunedRX300,

If we can ever get some aftermarket cams for these 1MZFEs...oh that would be jolly.

 

I just checked -- the new cams from dealer for 1MZ-FE are $150 each.

 

All right I will go to the machine shop tomorrow and will try to take pictures. I guess I need them anyway to show to the dealer.

 

Which seals do usually deform and break? I think mine had the biggest leak from the crankshaft.

 

Oh no, not those, we are talking about something like Shrick Cams...nobody really makes much of anything for the 1MZFE engines.

 

There is a rear main seal underneath that has been the $$$ horror for some.

 

Lexus replaced my rear main seals twice in one year. Just shortly afterward, I believe the crankshaft seal is leaking (Lexus told me PS is leaking but I saw engine oil). I gave Auto-RX a try, a cleaner that Lexmex recommendated and slow that leak significantly.
Since your mechanic told you crankshaft leak caused oil level to drop, would be interesting to see it.
BTW, I saw very fine but hard sludge particles when I cut open oil filter used for my Auto-RX treatment.

 

I would have just dropped in a used japaneese engine or a salvaged engine for $1000, run some AutoRX to clean it out, and be on my way.

 

My uncle used to like to use kerosene until Auto-Rx came along.