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Old May 16, 2006 | 06:20 PM
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My cousin and I removed part of the IACV assembly. There is another piece it connects to, but after looking at the manual we decided not to remove that second piece. That other metal piece has the actual valve that opens and closes, but the screws were kind of a pain to take off and we realized that throwing in some cleaner would do the job anyway.

You can see the valve in this picture after we took off the intake hoses.
Attached Thumbnails Iacv-img_0441.jpg  

Last edited by Lexmex; May 16, 2006 at 06:25 PM.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 06:24 PM
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Just remove those two screws you see along with the electrical harness and you will see this.

This is what we were talking about in the other thread about the magnet (the little roller there) and mine had no gunk whatsoever on this side. We actually may have the issue more inside.

What you need to do is make sure that you can turn this little magnet as we talked about in other posts to see if it moves (mine did without issue).

See that hole in right above in the throttle body. A little below that and to the left is the valve that opens and closes. Again, we didn't see a real need to take the rest of the assembly off to clean it and we poked around there with a flashlight and also stuck some wet tissue in there and no accumulation.
Attached Thumbnails Iacv-img_0448.jpg  

Last edited by Lexmex; May 16, 2006 at 07:46 PM.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 06:29 PM
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I asked my uncle if we should use carburator cleaner as we have before in this area and he said yes. Normally, we have Gunk or Prestone cleaner lying around, but this time we used something a little more local and potent, this Carbu Klin stuff, http://www.itwpolymex.com/english/tfdesca.html burned my eyes when we sprayed it (and you though old transfer case fluid was wild stuff). Really powerful stuff and expensive at 200 pesos a pop (about $20 USD).

I later used this to clean the PCV Valve again.
Attached Thumbnails Iacv-img_0457.jpg  

Last edited by Lexmex; May 16, 2006 at 07:44 PM.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 06:32 PM
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First, Antonio sprayed into the throttle body itself with the engine off. Notice, Antonio is holding the accelerator cable down to open up the butterflies on the throttle body.

Later, we turned on the motor (and had to push the gas to keep it running as long as possible). Then Antonio gave it a few more hits as I was turning on the motor a few times.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 06:34 PM
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Notice Antonio is now spraying into that hole that leads to the IACV. Again, we did this first with the motor off and then later spraying it just once with the motor on (and boy did I ever have to push that pedal down to get it going).
Attached Thumbnails Iacv-img_0455.jpg  
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Old May 16, 2006 | 06:39 PM
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And of course in the process I get a check engine light (P0171) which happens just about every other time I do this. For those of you who wanted to know the OBDII scanner I use, it is this Actron. It doesn't have the readiness monitors we have spoken about, but it reads and clears codes. Snap-On also makes some. I have seen some (but not as user friendly) for us cheap as $38 USD or so. If not, just use pull the EFI fuse and that will clear the code.
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Old May 16, 2006 | 06:44 PM
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I wanted to show something else interesting and important related to the quality of air.

First, notice this piece is my turn in my ram air setup. For those of you with OEM setups you should in this location notice a black plastic piece with a square opening that takes in air to your airbox.
Attached Thumbnails Iacv-img_0434.jpg  
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Old May 16, 2006 | 06:48 PM
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Now notice this picture taken near the entrance on that same side from the front bumper. You can see that same piece that we saw in the previous picture along with the top of my bullhorn mod.

This is the beginning path of the air to your engine, so this will give you an idea of how all that random clutter (leaves, insects, etc.) gets to the bottom of your airboxes.
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Old May 17, 2006 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Lexmex
My cousin and I removed part of the IACV assembly. There is another piece it connects to, but after looking at the manual we decided not to remove that second piece. That other metal piece has the actual valve that opens and closes, but the screws were kind of a pain to take off and we realized that throwing in some cleaner would do the job anyway.

You can see the valve in this picture after we took off the intake hoses.
Good job Lexmex. For those who need to scrub and poke to clean the passage, you can remove those three big screws that hold the throttle butterfly near the firewall and take it out. Turn the piece upside down and access 4 screws holding the IACV to the throttle piece.
Be sure to use a good screw driver since you can easily strip these screws, Lexus overtighten them too much.
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Old May 17, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TunedRX300
Good job Lexmex. For those who need to scrub and poke to clean the passage, you can remove those three big screws that hold the throttle butterfly near the firewall and take it out. Turn the piece upside down and access 4 screws holding the IACV to the throttle piece.
Be sure to use a good screw driver since you can easily strip these screws, Lexus overtighten them too much.
We really wanted to do the second piece, but it is actually something like a PITA like the tranny fluid pan (which we will show next time).

The key is to rotate that magnetic piece and make sure it does rotate.

The throttle body isn't that hard to take off, but Lexus does overtighten. I took a peek inside with a flashlight but it really didn't look bad.

I don't sense too much difference after driving it, though a run at the track should help check this.
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