P0125 And P1135 Codes??
Aftermarket o2 sensor can be had from your local auto parts store from 70-85$ . They are just as good if not better than the OEM versions. You just need to splice them in. They come with all of the wiring connectors and will last just as long as well. I always replace the two front ones in pairs. When one goes out it is not long before the other does as well.
Lead Lap
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
From: washington
Originally Posted by willie83
My 99 RX300 was throwing codes 0171, 0125, 1135, and 1133. All indicated bank1, sensor1 (firewall side on exhaust manifold before cat). I spent a lot of time researching these and other forums. During that time, I cleaned the MAF, used carb cleaner down the trottle body, and clearing the codes, and they always came back. The car really started running very poorly, no power, rough idle, and crappy gas milage.
OxygenSensors.com has the right A/F ratio sensor for $170.98 with free shipping. Also the sensor socket for $9.95. Denso Part #234-9009. Identical to the original.
You will need a long handle ratchet or extention to get enough torque. Be sure to use some penatrating oil the night before. I also had to put a hose calmp around the split socket to keep it from spreading out! That baby was tight! Once it broke loose, it began to get tight again. I had to work it back and forth a few times and it finally came out. The threads closest to the end looked like they got left behind. I stuck my finger up in there and it felt clean; threads were deep. Put the anti-seize on and screwed the new sensor in and plugged it in. Oh, I forgot to mention what a pain to unplug. Need to get both hands up there to squeeze and pull, probably easier when on a lift.
All said and done for $181.00 and the car runs like new. No new codes after 300 miles.
OxygenSensors.com has the right A/F ratio sensor for $170.98 with free shipping. Also the sensor socket for $9.95. Denso Part #234-9009. Identical to the original.
You will need a long handle ratchet or extention to get enough torque. Be sure to use some penatrating oil the night before. I also had to put a hose calmp around the split socket to keep it from spreading out! That baby was tight! Once it broke loose, it began to get tight again. I had to work it back and forth a few times and it finally came out. The threads closest to the end looked like they got left behind. I stuck my finger up in there and it felt clean; threads were deep. Put the anti-seize on and screwed the new sensor in and plugged it in. Oh, I forgot to mention what a pain to unplug. Need to get both hands up there to squeeze and pull, probably easier when on a lift.
All said and done for $181.00 and the car runs like new. No new codes after 300 miles.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: CA
My 99 RX300 has the same problem. At first it was P0125 and P1135. On next day scanner show P1130 O2 Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1). If someone know where is located this sensor: before cat converter or after.
You have posted 3 photos of oxygen sensor. Which one (I mean photo) is of sensor I need to change?
Thank you.
You have posted 3 photos of oxygen sensor. Which one (I mean photo) is of sensor I need to change?
Thank you.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: pa
as lexmex has posted in one of his earilier post, it is on the rear exshust manifold near the fire wall.you can only accacess this from underneath the car.lexmex has a pic.of this in anouther post.not hard to change. just getting the plug undone is hardest part. you will need ramps, also spray sensor with penatrating oil before trying to remove.
Rookie
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: New York
Sorry, I have the same problem and would like a little help. If i have the 0125 and 1135 message, which one from Lemerex pictures should I change or all should be change, is it 2 or 3 a/f sensors. Thanks
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,331
Likes: 210
From: Miami, Florida
The other sensor, O2 sensor, is after the cat below the vehicle. That would throw a different code.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,331
Likes: 210
From: Miami, Florida
Bank 2 sensor 1 is the one you can see when you open the hood and Bank 1, sensor 2 is the one underneath your seat and behind the catalytic converter and in front of the resonator
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
From: Georgia
Here is a link to a post on ES300 forum that might be helpful. It's kind of long but has good info if you can read through it all.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ight=o2+oxygen
RX and ES have basically the same engine.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...ight=o2+oxygen
RX and ES have basically the same engine.
Rookie
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: New York
LC1338 and LEXMEX, HELP,
Ont he above link on how to change the o2 sensor, he stated this:
First I had to unlatch the tab on the side of the old connector and disconnect it
I am right now doing it and I can't seem to get the connector apart. Is there a latch that I need to unlatch, and how is that done, there's not much room? Can someone help me asap?
Thanks
Frankie
Ont he above link on how to change the o2 sensor, he stated this:
First I had to unlatch the tab on the side of the old connector and disconnect it
I am right now doing it and I can't seem to get the connector apart. Is there a latch that I need to unlatch, and how is that done, there's not much room? Can someone help me asap?
Thanks
Frankie
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 17,331
Likes: 210
From: Miami, Florida
I have actually never replaced any of the A/F/O2 sensors in my RX300.
However, my uncle and I did incidentally change out an A/F sensor today on a Nissan Tsuru (like an old Sentra) so that it could pass emissions. Now on those, the little latch (and I can't see it in the photo on this link) usually in most cases one has to use a flathead screw driver OR has to be pressed down firmly with two fingers in order to pull it out, but usually the prior.
Earliest I could take a look at this would be tomorrow morning.
However, my uncle and I did incidentally change out an A/F sensor today on a Nissan Tsuru (like an old Sentra) so that it could pass emissions. Now on those, the little latch (and I can't see it in the photo on this link) usually in most cases one has to use a flathead screw driver OR has to be pressed down firmly with two fingers in order to pull it out, but usually the prior.
Earliest I could take a look at this would be tomorrow morning.
Rookie
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: New York
Thanks LexMex,
I stopped and went inside the house, its too cold here in NY freezinf temp. Tomorrow morning is fine.
The thing had to be a latch since I did tried to squeezed both side of the plug and couldn't get it off. I might try a small screw driver tomorrow.
Thanks much Frankie
I stopped and went inside the house, its too cold here in NY freezinf temp. Tomorrow morning is fine.
The thing had to be a latch since I did tried to squeezed both side of the plug and couldn't get it off. I might try a small screw driver tomorrow.
Thanks much Frankie