vibration at idle problem
Had trouble engaging gears on start up. Improvement with sensors less traffic and didn't have much problems with low idle which shall look further into tomorrow.
-Bank 1 & 2 valve cover gaskets (I had a leak in bank 1), spark plugs(All 6) , coil packs( All 6) , both Knock sensors( Bank 1&2) with the wiring harness. New air filter. Oil changed. i cleaned the throttle body and intake manifold .
my misfire was due to a bad coil in cylinder 1 so it threw the code and lexus's are designed to go into a limp mode and i lost overdrive (4th gear) and until i changed the coil i was driving to and from work cruising at 60mph doing 4000 rpm ( you know i was pissed and wanted to fix it right away)
Anyways after i changed the coils and knock sensors i cleared the codes and since then i have had my 4th gear back cruising smoothly at 60 mph doing 2100 rpm like normal.
Everything seemed fine UNTIL i started getting a REALLY bad vibration only at a dead stop and ONLY when in gear (reverse or drive) the moment i put it into park or neutral it completely goes away and idles smoothly. when i put it in drive and I'm at a stop light it vibrates really bad but the moment i lift off the brake and step on the gas it goes away.
I figured it was time to do some work on the transmission (thinking it was a transmission issue) so i had a really good mechanic ive known for years and trust, change the tranny fluid for me . But the car still vibrates. he mentioned that he hooked up his code reader and said that my catalytic converter is going bad or is already bad ( thats probably all those codes that was thrown out, i haven't done my research on that yet).
After reading the posts up above its not a bad idea to possibly clean out the idle air control valve, that will be my next project. ill check all my motor mounts and see the condition that they are in and if they play any part in this vibration. i will update on my progress.
Anyways, the car has had all of its service, by Lexus, since new. It runs great on the open road. But when you come to a stop when the engine is warm (and in gear) the bassy drone/vibration appears.
Mounts are good, no air leaks, IAC good, throttle body clean, Oil control valves and screens good, exhaust system good.
I do notice that the vibration is much much worse with the AC on. I have a VW Golf R that is supposed to have a boomy exhaust note. My RX now sounds like the Golf, except it shakes more.
I am an engineer and am on a mission to figure this out. There must be a solution. I appreciate your help and ideas everyone. This was my mother's car and I have a sentimental attachment to it.
Anyways, the car has had all of its service, by Lexus, since new. It runs great on the open road. But when you come to a stop when the engine is warm (and in gear) the bassy drone/vibration appears.
Mounts are good, no air leaks, IAC good, throttle body clean, Oil control valves and screens good, exhaust system good.
I do notice that the vibration is much much worse with the AC on. I have a VW Golf R that is supposed to have a boomy exhaust note. My RX now sounds like the Golf, except it shakes more.
I am an engineer and am on a mission to figure this out. There must be a solution. I appreciate your help and ideas everyone. This was my mother's car and I have a sentimental attachment to it.
You have to narrow the possibilities down and the type of problem you state is best diagnosed in person.
Engine, exhaust, suspension, vibrating plates are all possible source of the problem. Mechanics stethoscope and holding with counter pressure should be useful techniques. I would say dont give up and keep searching for a shop who can diagnose it for you.
Salim
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
You have to narrow the possibilities down and the type of problem you state is best diagnosed in person.
Engine, exhaust, suspension, vibrating plates are all possible source of the problem. Mechanics stethoscope and holding with counter pressure should be useful techniques. I would say dont give up and keep searching for a shop who can diagnose it for you.
Salim
Think rationally about the question you are asking.
My wild guess says have the Pre-Cat WU looked at, This is the piece that is directly before the flex coupling. There can be crack inside the heat shield. What is the chance of me being right? Less than 0.01%,
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; May 21, 2016 at 12:20 PM.
Thanks for the help. Is the crack inside the heat shield easy to see? Doesn't sound like a common problem if you are giving it a 0.01% probability. What are the high probability components for the symptoms I described?
Thanks for the help.
Rich
Salim
My engine lifted up several inches into the air when the engine was accelerated while the brake was held down. Again i tried in reverse and the same issue happen, my entire engine moved greatly. I am very certain my motor mounts are the issue to this vibration problem at idle. Im going to order all new mounts, replace them and give an update. I suggest you try this same test i performed with a friend of yours to check if this could also be your problem. i realize you said your mounts are good, but how certain are you of that? did you recently replace all you mounts? anyways its a quick and simple test that i think can shed a lot of light upon this problem. Make sure you have a buddy with you when performing this test (one in the car, one looking at the engine) .By the way i did also clean the idle air control valve as i mentioned in my previous post that i would do. i could tell the upon startup the car breathed much better. It started up much faster in my opinion and it was a fairly easy job to do, i think anyone with high milage should definitely do this cleaning whenever they have a chance.
Last edited by Jaycee22; May 24, 2016 at 09:30 AM.








