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Cv axle boot replacement

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Old Jun 3, 2025 | 04:12 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by salimshah
Please look at the DIY in sticky DIY thread or search for it.

A rip in the boot ignored for few days can end up loosing lot of grease. The centrifugal force of the spinning shaft slings most of the grease out.

Salim
is that what’s it’s called? Sticky diy?
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Old Jun 3, 2025 | 11:24 PM
  #17  
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...1999-2003-182/ RX300 first gen page has a blue divider with the first 6 or 7 threads are 'sticky' and the rest are 'normal'. New threads keep rolling off the main page referenced above, while the sticky keep their position.

Salim
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Old Jun 18, 2025 | 08:23 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by salimshah
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...1999-2003-182/ RX300 first gen page has a blue divider with the first 6 or 7 threads are 'sticky' and the rest are 'normal'. New threads keep rolling off the main page referenced above, while the sticky keep their position.

Salim
I found your diy on removing the cv axle and holy **** it’s a lot. Is it truly hard to replace the drivers side cv axle? And is it necessary to torque the abs bolt that holds it in place?
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 08:54 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by pieceofbread
I found your diy on removing the cv axle and holy **** it’s a lot. Is it truly hard to replace the drivers side cv axle? And is it necessary to torque the abs bolt that holds it in place?
It's been a while and some of my frustrations [as the joint came apart] have faded. If you are DIY type, then most of it is intuitive and no extra skills/tools are necessary. Having a med (5") vise helps.

I live by torque specs [although I have uncalibrated torque wrenches]. I get the specs before embarking on any job. Most professionals just do it by the feel and reach out for the torque wrench occasionally (where they deem it is necessary).

To answer your question .. one can work without the torque specs. If you strip threads or the fastener gets undone, you have to take the blame.

Just remember that all suspension fasteners have to be tightened once the members are in "normal' state. Vehicle on flat ground.

Saliim
PS: There are fasteners that you can not get a torque wrench on ... so exceptions exist.

Last edited by salimshah; Jun 19, 2025 at 08:55 AM.
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 09:06 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by salimshah
It's been a while and some of my frustrations [as the joint came apart] have faded. If you are DIY type, then most of it is intuitive and no extra skills/tools are necessary. Having a med (5") vise helps.

I live by torque specs [although I have uncalibrated torque wrenches]. I get the specs before embarking on any job. Most professionals just do it by the feel and reach out for the torque wrench occasionally (where they deem it is necessary).

To answer your question .. one can work without the torque specs. If you strip threads or the fastener gets undone, you have to take the blame.

Just remember that all suspension fasteners have to be tightened once the members are in "normal' state. Vehicle on flat ground.

Saliim
PS: There are fasteners that you can not get a torque wrench on ... so exceptions exist.
I know that torque specs are required but I didn’t know that the abs sensor needed torquing. Also you mention putting the car in neutral and having someone press the brakes and then spin the axle so you can break loose the axle nuts holding the axle in place at the 2 and 8o clock positions. Could you just put bricks on the brake pedal? And is it really important to position the new axle the same way the old one came out? I hear that this specific axle doesn’t have splines
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Old Jun 19, 2025 | 08:04 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by pieceofbread
I know that torque specs are required but I didn’t know that the abs sensor needed torquing. Also you mention putting the car in neutral and having someone press the brakes and then spin the axle so you can break loose the axle nuts holding the axle in place at the 2 and 8o clock positions. Could you just put bricks on the brake pedal? And is it really important to position the new axle the same way the old one came out? I hear that this specific axle doesn’t have splines
You make the call on abs sensor.

Only 2 or max 3 [nut/bolt] are accessible from below at a time. You have to spin the axle around. The wheel has to be lifted and transmission needs to be in "N" to spin it around. With transmission in N: ad the wheel off the ground, as you apply the torque to undo the nut/bolt of the flange, the axle will spin. You can put the trans back in Park or hold the wheel from spinning . My suggestion was to use an assistant to apply brakes. Once you know the problem [as stated above] you can figure out a solution that suits you.

One very important thing to keep in mind is that DO NOT put the weight of the vehicle on the wheel WITHOUT the axle in the wheel bearing [once you remove the shaft, keep wheel lifted and the body on the support.

Salim
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