Popping and Vibration
Thread Starter
10th Gear
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: TN
Popping and Vibration
2000 RX300 FWD
About a year ago I had the passenger CV Axle replaced because of vibration and popping. I had it done at a shop because I didn’t have time, so no clue on the brand.
A few months after that the drivers side started popping so I changed it myself with Trakmotive.
A few months after that, the passenger started up again and it turned out even though the charged me for a full CV axle change, they only changed part of it so I got it the whole thing changed for free. Again, no clue on the brand.
A few months after that, more shaking from the passenger side again, thought it was the CV axle again so I took it to the same shop. They said it was the wheel bearing. I bought the wheel bearing (Moog) but didn’t realize it needed to be pressed in so again, took it to the same shop to have it installed.
And guess what? A few months later (now), it’s doing it again!!! After driving for 30+ minutes, it will start shaking and popping. The popping is worse when turning but is popping going straight too. The vibration starts at higher speeds but after more driving, it starts vibrating at lower speeds and the popping gets louder. The vibrating stops when I let off the gas but as soon as I hit the gas again, it starts vibrating. I have changed tie-rod ends (moog on both sides) as well as sway linkages (also moog on both sides) but it’s still doing it.
The shop (same one) swears it is the struts but they also refuse to take it for more than a 5min test drive which isn’t enough to get it to start doing it and won’t take it after I’ve driven it to the point of it starting again because they are “too busy”. So yes, I’m done with that shop but still need to figure out what the problem is. At this point I don’t care if I have to buy a new CV joint or bearing so long as it fixes it but I also don’t want to spend money to replace good parts. The seals on the tie rod ends and the linkages were cracked so yes they needed to be changed but they didn’t fix the issue.
About a year ago I had the passenger CV Axle replaced because of vibration and popping. I had it done at a shop because I didn’t have time, so no clue on the brand.
A few months after that the drivers side started popping so I changed it myself with Trakmotive.
A few months after that, the passenger started up again and it turned out even though the charged me for a full CV axle change, they only changed part of it so I got it the whole thing changed for free. Again, no clue on the brand.
A few months after that, more shaking from the passenger side again, thought it was the CV axle again so I took it to the same shop. They said it was the wheel bearing. I bought the wheel bearing (Moog) but didn’t realize it needed to be pressed in so again, took it to the same shop to have it installed.
And guess what? A few months later (now), it’s doing it again!!! After driving for 30+ minutes, it will start shaking and popping. The popping is worse when turning but is popping going straight too. The vibration starts at higher speeds but after more driving, it starts vibrating at lower speeds and the popping gets louder. The vibrating stops when I let off the gas but as soon as I hit the gas again, it starts vibrating. I have changed tie-rod ends (moog on both sides) as well as sway linkages (also moog on both sides) but it’s still doing it.
The shop (same one) swears it is the struts but they also refuse to take it for more than a 5min test drive which isn’t enough to get it to start doing it and won’t take it after I’ve driven it to the point of it starting again because they are “too busy”. So yes, I’m done with that shop but still need to figure out what the problem is. At this point I don’t care if I have to buy a new CV joint or bearing so long as it fixes it but I also don’t want to spend money to replace good parts. The seals on the tie rod ends and the linkages were cracked so yes they needed to be changed but they didn’t fix the issue.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,575
Likes: 1,393
From: Austin, TX
Am I missing a question in your post?
If the issue is trust in diagnosing the problem, I would suggest go to a suspension shop and let them give you a second opinion. You can also try another shop and ask them what is currently wrong. Just give them the list of items replaced and when. Do not share your personal diagnosis [just my suggestion].
If you want a comment on how the current shop is dealing with your RX .. it seems they are confident in their previous repair and at this stage they think there is no warranty issue. Some shops try to save money for the customer and only identify must fix, and in contrast there are shops who drive up the list to un-needed but related items. A good shop should accurately tell the customer and share their opinion, but let the customer decide how to approach the repairs.
CV issues are pronounced at slow speed with steering turned all the way [one side and then the other side].
Strut issues are pronounced on a rough road, traveling straight.
Most common wear item is lower control arm.
Salim.
If the issue is trust in diagnosing the problem, I would suggest go to a suspension shop and let them give you a second opinion. You can also try another shop and ask them what is currently wrong. Just give them the list of items replaced and when. Do not share your personal diagnosis [just my suggestion].
If you want a comment on how the current shop is dealing with your RX .. it seems they are confident in their previous repair and at this stage they think there is no warranty issue. Some shops try to save money for the customer and only identify must fix, and in contrast there are shops who drive up the list to un-needed but related items. A good shop should accurately tell the customer and share their opinion, but let the customer decide how to approach the repairs.
CV issues are pronounced at slow speed with steering turned all the way [one side and then the other side].
Strut issues are pronounced on a rough road, traveling straight.
Most common wear item is lower control arm.
Salim.
Thread Starter
10th Gear
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: TN
I wrote so much I apparently forgot to ask the question… 🤦♂️
What would be the likely culprit and how would I be able to test it to make sure I’m not replacing good parts? My gut tells me the CV joint had premature failure or the shop didn’t grease it before installing. Same could be said about the bearing. Easy enough to check the grease but what about testing them or the strut? You mentioned the control arm. Are you referring to the bushings? It looks like it might be original but it’s not in pieces (that’s the only visual check I know on bushings/ball joints). For me the odd part (which is also what’s pointing me to them not being greased properly) is that it won’t do it until it’s warmed up with a 30+min drive at highway speed.
What would be the likely culprit and how would I be able to test it to make sure I’m not replacing good parts? My gut tells me the CV joint had premature failure or the shop didn’t grease it before installing. Same could be said about the bearing. Easy enough to check the grease but what about testing them or the strut? You mentioned the control arm. Are you referring to the bushings? It looks like it might be original but it’s not in pieces (that’s the only visual check I know on bushings/ball joints). For me the odd part (which is also what’s pointing me to them not being greased properly) is that it won’t do it until it’s warmed up with a 30+min drive at highway speed.
Last edited by enoon; Sep 20, 2024 at 01:56 PM.
Pole Position
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 3,466
Likes: 920
From: wa
I wrote so much I apparently forgot to ask the question… 🤦♂️
What would be the likely culprit and how would I be able to test it to make sure I’m not replacing good parts? My gut tells me the CV joint had premature failure or the shop didn’t grease it before installing. Same could be said about the bearing. Easy enough to check the grease but what about testing them or the strut? You mentioned the control arm. Are you referring to the bushings? It looks like it might be original but it’s not in pieces (that’s the only visual check I know on bushings/ball joints). For me the odd part (which is also what’s pointing me to them not being greased properly) is that it won’t do it until it’s warmed up with a 30+min drive at highway speed.
What would be the likely culprit and how would I be able to test it to make sure I’m not replacing good parts? My gut tells me the CV joint had premature failure or the shop didn’t grease it before installing. Same could be said about the bearing. Easy enough to check the grease but what about testing them or the strut? You mentioned the control arm. Are you referring to the bushings? It looks like it might be original but it’s not in pieces (that’s the only visual check I know on bushings/ball joints). For me the odd part (which is also what’s pointing me to them not being greased properly) is that it won’t do it until it’s warmed up with a 30+min drive at highway speed.
You can lift a car, rock the wheel and get a fairly good assessment of the bearings and tie rod joints. Spinning the wheel while feeling a shock coil is also highly helpful here.
No way to diagnose w/o being hands-on, but many things can make issues like your describe, not only a bearing.
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