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Awesome story. “Rust jacking” is a common problem on those types of sensors that throws that critical gap off.
If anyone is looking for a great YouTube channel where a mechanic has a great knack for troubleshooting hard to diagnose cars check out South Main Auto
He is located near Buffalo. Way to far for the OP to drive though.
Now that i recall too, anytime i’d drive this car in the rain, it would always make my PCS light flash til i got in a better (dryer) weather condition.. I wonder if moisture is my playing a part with my issue?? o.O
Ding ding ding! This is your problem, just need to find what's gotten wet. It makes sense that if you're having issues when wet, then they'll just get worse after a deep freeze. Water expands when frozen and could have easily cracked some component that's the root cause of all these issues.
Just throwing out ideas here: are all of the plastic covers along the bottom of the car and in the wheel well in place? Are all the covers for electronics in the front secure? The radar for the PCS is right behind the front emblem, it should be a sealed unit, but if it's cracked at all water can seep inside, compounded by having one of those aftermarket open "F" emblems. In the first post, what little I can see of the engine bay looks really dusty/dirty to me. Was the car in any kind of front end accident before you got it? Thinking maybe it was stored with the hood off or open that soaked some components.
This sounds crazy and unlikely. You should find the number for the Car Care Nut (best Toyota/Lexus tech) he has a very professional YouTube channel. Reach out to him and see if he can help at all. A faulty BCM seems like it could cause this but I can’t imagine a loom going bad in a Toyota.
Will be looking further into info on the BCM for this vehicle. Thank you!
One simple thing to check is a weak battery. Have them do a load test on it. Batteries that are weak can cause all sorts of problems. I don't think this is the issue but often overlooked. The extreme cold can effect batteries that are going bad.
Will the battery checked here in the next few days just to rule that problem out. Really feel it’s something more than that though.
Ding ding ding! This is your problem, just need to find what's gotten wet. It makes sense that if you're having issues when wet, then they'll just get worse after a deep freeze. Water expands when frozen and could have easily cracked some component that's the root cause of all these issues.
Just throwing out ideas here: are all of the plastic covers along the bottom of the car and in the wheel well in place? Are all the covers for electronics in the front secure? The radar for the PCS is right behind the front emblem, it should be a sealed unit, but if it's cracked at all water can seep inside, compounded by having one of those aftermarket open "F" emblems. In the first post, what little I can see of the engine bay looks really dusty/dirty to me. Was the car in any kind of front end accident before you got it? Thinking maybe it was stored with the hood off or open that soaked some components.
I don’t think ALL of the bottom plastics are on, however i could be wrong. I do know 2 of my wheel well plastics were a little chewed up from coming loose a while back and i just never replaced them only pinned them back in to place.
When we had this freeze over, it was the first time the car had continuously ran through wet conditions. after a little ice had accumulated on the car that day and i had to clean the windshield off is when it started all this madness. Really wondering what could’ve gotten damaged exactly at this point.
It was in a front end collision when I had purchased it but everything was replaced and fixed all OEM and no issues ever showed. This was over a year ago. This storm really made it act up. Lost on where to start at this point.
sometimes it’s on start up, sometimes when i’m driving on the highway, then it’ll disappear. is there anything that i could look for to be loose or inspect? there’s times when it doesn’t even come on.
My active suspension is completely off, car rides like it’s on coils overs just stiff as can be.
‘first gear unavailable due to slipppery surface’ ? getting this message after going into drive shortly after car’s been turned on.. let’s me engage first gear after rolling about 25-50 feet?? is this part of the PCS system?
Yikes. I had to have the main engine room harness replaced on my RC350. Harness is 5500$ and labor is another 5k. Luckily, I work at Lexus so I got it done for 5500$ labor and part out the door, but man, was that an expensive mistake. Yeah, it's a TON of labor to replace. If you're at 57k, this should be a warranty-able issue, unless you messed up the harness yourself like I did. Or at least see if your service advisor can get Lexus to good will it.
Worst case, you can go about repairing it yourself.
Yikes. I had to have the main engine room harness replaced on my RC350. Harness is 5500$ and labor is another 5k. Luckily, I work at Lexus so I got it done for 5500$ labor and part out the door, but man, was that an expensive mistake. Yeah, it's a TON of labor to replace. If you're at 57k, this should be a warranty-able issue, unless you messed up the harness yourself like I did. Or at least see if your service advisor can get Lexus to good will it.
Worst case, you can go about repairing it yourself.
Thats insane man. It’s a 2017, at 57k though..
I did have my service advisor check to see if it was covered but he said it had just ran out in December. Going to see what can be done. I just don’t know if it’s actually that or if it’s a sensor that got wet!
‘first gear unavailable due to slipppery surface’ ? getting this when message after going into drive shortly after car’s been turned on.. let’s me engage first gear after rolling about 25-50 feet?? is this part of the PCS system?
Computer will pop that message when there is an issue with the traction control system. Since the computer cant activate traction control it will lock out first gear as safety precaution against novice drivers so they don't spin out in first. Your airbag cover doesn't look factory? did your replace your steering wheel as well?
Computer will pop that message when there is an issue with the traction control system. Since the computer cant activate traction control it will lock out first gear as safety precaution against novice drivers so they don't spin out in first. Your airbag cover doesn't look factory? did your replace your steering wheel as well?
Thanks for that update on that, I appreciate it.
First gear does work after driving the car for a few hundred feet-minutes.
Steering wheel IS factory/oem just had it wrapped in red alcantara on the sides and airbag. Was done upon receiving the car, never caused any issues and it was also done by Park Place Lexus.
Does anyone think it would be ideal to return to the dealership for a second opinion from a master tech in the shop? I only ask because I know he’s currently driving a 16’ GSF & an older 13’ ISF. Wondered if he’d be able to properly diagnose / troubleshoot this issue.
I was told it would be $180 for a diagnostic fee.
I would go back for the $180 fee myself. It's another diagnose. This kind of problem is normally a Rodent that chewed on the wiring. Happens a lot. Lexus likely won't splice in a repair wiring. Look for a good experienced Auto Electric shop, that has update equipment to work on this. They can track down the problem and do wire repairs.
Or if someone can find that it is truly Rodent damage, your Insurance can get involved in most case to pay a claim.
currently driving a 17’ RC-F. vehicles been flawless up until recently we had this freezing rain in Tx. car’s stock except for an RR racing vented ‘F’ in the front. After driving through the cold and rainy weather conditions I parked the vehicle for about 4-5 hours. Upon start up it gave me a warning light along with traction control off, brake malfunction. check abs, psc and the brake light on.
immediately, the next day i took it to Park Place Lexus where i was told it needed a ‘Skid Ecu’ which wasn’t cheap..
Recommended service
$1,058.28
[Other]: HAS CODES FOR BOTH FRONT SPEED SENSORS, CODES WONT CLEAR, FOUND POSITIVE TERMINAL LOOSE, BUT CODES STILL PRESENT, RECOMMEND REPLACING SKID CONTROL
they performed the repair today and the dash remains lit up after spending $1k+.. i’m now told it’s the engine room wire harness.
320 HAS OPEN IN FRONT SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT, REPLACED SKID CONTROL ECU, CODES STILL PRESENT, CHECK CONTINUITY OF HARNESS, FOUND ALL 4 SPEED SENSORS HAVE OPEN CIRCUIT.
the ticket to have this job done’s $14,816.78.
part # 82111-24D21
I have a photo the technician had sent my service advisor, and a picture of the new remedy.. was wondering if anyone has any idea if this will truly solve the issue or if he simply missed something? i wouldn’t be questioning it but i’ve already invested in the ecu i didn’t end up needing.
*my service advisor did mention the tech saying he’d recommend a partial repair on it but he’s unsure where it could be since the harness is wrapped.
Really trying to avoid that almost $15k ticket.
Highly interested in everyone’s opinion on this.
Thank you guys! New shop quote. Area technician stated was the problem.
*Wanted to note upon start up everything’s normal except the steering wheel, and suspension. Wheel’s tight to steer for a few seconds in park then when i go into Drive it’s fully active. Suspension rides and handles like i have coil overs, just stiff as can be. overall Brakes are working properly as well. No other issues present out of the ordinary at the moment.
Hi I'm having the same issues with my 17 only have 16k can you please advise me on any fix if any please Thanks.
