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I see that RRracing is now selling the Antigravity ATX30, 6.4 lbs. They make a mounting bracket to fit our cars. Is it too small/weak for a nonracecar RCF/ISF?
Yeah, for the RCF the guy from Anti gravity was saying, you need the AG-H6-RS. I am looking into the 30 Ah one since that seems adequate enough and it is 13.9 lbs. Surprising RR racing is selling such a small battery for the RCF. I believe, it must for racing only. I don't think that battery can handle the draw from driving on the streets, I believe.
Yeah, for the RCF the guy from Anti gravity was saying, you need the AG-H6-RS. I am looking into the 30 Ah one since that seems adequate enough and it is 13.9 lbs. Surprising RR racing is selling such a small battery for the RCF. I believe, it must for racing only. I don't think that battery can handle the draw from driving on the streets, I believe.
you don’t need battery capacity for driving on the streets, as your alternator can easily supply enough juice, unless of course you have some huge sub that’s drawing massive amperage, then I don’t recommend it.
The trick to using a lower capacity battery is to make sure that you don’t have any accessories that are drawing power. I do not daily my ISF, so the battery typically shuts off after about 3 weeks of car sitting without battery maintainer. No big deal though as all I have to do is hit the restart button and I have plenty of starting power — you will not get stranded.
I daily our battery on my supercharged 3IS no issues.
Rafi
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Thanks Rafi. Is it a straight fit? I realize there is custom hardware it comes with to make it fit with the RCF. Is there any modification that needs to be done? Everything you said sounds great. When you say accessory, does that include the 17 speaker Mark Levinson as well? Not that it matters much since I never have used my ML system in the 4 years I have owned this car. It is pretty much dead weight for me, but just in case in the future I need to use it, want to know if there are implications.
Originally Posted by RRRacing
you don’t need battery capacity for driving on the streets, as your alternator can easily supply enough juice, unless of course you have some huge sub that’s drawing massive amperage, then I don’t recommend it.
The trick to using a lower capacity battery is to make sure that you don’t have any accessories that are drawing power. I do not daily my ISF, so the battery typically shuts off after about 3 weeks of car sitting without battery maintainer. No big deal though as all I have to do is hit the restart button and I have plenty of starting power — you will not get stranded.
I daily our battery on my supercharged 3IS no issues.
Update: So after racking my brains for many weeks (and months), I finally decided to pull the trigger and ordered AG-H6-RS (group 48) in 30 Ah capacity from a different US vendor. It was a tough decision, but the allure of weight savings and possibly much longer life were too hard to resist. I ordered the 30 Ah since I thought it would be sufficient for the type of use I have for my RCF. Also, it weighs only 13 lbs so the weight drop is quite significant.
For you American guys, it is quite decently priced, but for me importing it to Calgary, AB it was a lot more due to the conversion rate as well as duties etc. The OEM battery was less than half at $422 CAD so I am hoping the gamble will pay off with the weight reduction as well as the much longer life for the battery. We will see. I definitely want to install it myself and also weigh the OEM battery to get the exact numbers of how much the weight reduction was. They already shipped it so I should have it in a few days.
I loosened the three bolts today using a 10 mm small wrench (not socket wrench). They were pretty easy to loosen. In order to get the battery cage out, one of the plastic clamps that holds the hose with cables in it near the firewall, was rather easy to open. I used a long flathead screwdriver and twisted it in the little slot and it opened rather easily. However, the one that is just on the side of the battery, was difficult to open. It was the same type, but the screw driver needs to be angled downwards to get it into the slot. While twisting it, the flathead screw driver bit would pop out. Eventually, I got it to open, but the plastic clamp had some wear marks on it. I might have to use my flashlight to see if it could be clamped shut once I put the new battery in.
Technically, I can take the battery out now and weigh it, but I will wait till the AG battery arrives later this week and I will take it out and install the new one in. I will weigh both of the batteries once the OEM battery is out.
I received my H6 and it’s not a good fit, or fit at all...
Problem is the battery they sent me has the posts on the front edge of the battery vs the oem one has the posts in the back corners.
Spoke to the AG rep and he seems perplexed. Think the rcf isn’t listed in their normal fitment data, and he had to dig around and then realized they actually didn’t have an exact fit for our car.
I mentioned that if they made the H6 in a left front positive post configuration, I can get that and just flip the battery around “backwards”, but the rep said they don’t make an H6 like that.
He suggested I go back to a 24 battery which does come in left front positive configuration.
I received my H6 and it’s not a good fit, or fit at all...
Problem is the battery they sent me has the posts on the front edge of the battery vs the oem one has the posts in the back corners.
Spoke to the AG rep and he seems perplexed. Think the rcf isn’t listed in their normal fitment data, and he had to dig around and then realized they actually didn’t have an exact fit for our car.
I mentioned that if they made the H6 in a left front positive post configuration, I can get that and just flip the battery around “backwards”, but the rep said they don’t make an H6 like that.
He suggested I go back to a 24 battery which does come in left front positive configuration.
Pls LMK what you end up with.
Oh no! That is surprising since Chad said the H6-RS was a direct fit to our car. The group 24 is a smaller battery so a spacer is needed. The rep from AG said, it was a direct fit to our car so there should be no modification needed. I have not received mine yet, but I might have to send an email and find out what they say about return. Thanks for giving me the heads up. Really appreciate it. Hopefully, I can sort this out before I receive the battery otherwise, I will end up paying duty on something that does not even work with my car.
Last edited by 05RollaXRS; Feb 22, 2021 at 07:27 PM.
Well..I’m going to try now to see if I can loosen some straps and get more play on the main positive harness so it will reach.
Stay put. Will report in a bit
Well..I’m going to try now to see if I can loosen some straps and get more play on the main positive harness so it will reach.
Stay put. Will report in a bit
Please let me know. Thanks. I am trying to reach out to the place where I ordered it from and going to see what they say. Very frustrated with the incompetence of the AG rep.
Ok. So I got it to work. Just have to loosen one clip so the main positive harness has more slack.
it wasn’t a big deal. The neg side has plenty of slack so nothing had to be done.
when I first got the battery yesterday, I was thinking for that amount of money, I shouldn’t have to rig it to fit and wanted the battery with opposite poles so I could flip it.
But since they don’t make that config, I’d thought I would try harder.
It fits fine. Don’t stress.
Thanks Bro. I have already opened the clamp so that is what I thought it would be able to have enough slack to reach the other side. I think I am already ready for it since the cables are our of the clamps already. Just need to take the battery out and put the new one in. I will give it a try once I receive it on friday and will let you know if I have questions. Thanks.
Did you weigh yours? Please let me know. Thanks.
@Mingofish Hey bro, did you get the slack by opening this clamp? There are two. One by the firewall and the other by the side of the battery. I was able to open both and free the cables up. That means, I should be good right?
Last edited by 05RollaXRS; Feb 22, 2021 at 08:34 PM.
Yup. You’ll be just fine. It wasn’t a lot of fight. Just was thinking I shouldn’t fight at all for the price...
I did weigh but my lead acid wasn’t an oem battery. It was an interstate group 34 battery. I had to get a battery quick when the car came back from RR and didn’t want to crank. Think they left too many hoods and doors open and/or car sat there too long...
My buddy’s shop only had that 34 size in stock and I just rolled with it.
That one was 36.3 lbs.
The AG H6 was 16.1 if I recall correctly.
20lb diff.
Awesome. I will do the same as well. Weigh my OEM battery and then the AG battery, which should be around 13 lbs. Hopefully, the install will go smoothly.
Originally Posted by Mingofish
Yup. You’ll be just fine. It wasn’t a lot of fight. Just was thinking I shouldn’t fight at all for the price...
I did weigh but my lead acid wasn’t an oem battery. It was an interstate group 34 battery. I had to get a battery quick when the car came back from RR and didn’t want to crank. Think they left too many hoods and doors open and/or car sat there too long...
My buddy’s shop only had that 34 size in stock and I just rolled with it.
That one was 36.3 lbs.
The AG H6 was 16.1 if I recall correctly.
20lb diff.
Received it this morning. Did not waste any time taking it out of the box and weighing in. Came with two key fobs for restart. Impressive, it weighs over 1 lbs less than advertised. It came in at 12.8 lbs only. Many more pictures to come including OEM battery weight as well as installation pictures.