Welp, someone from Texas put a deposit on the car I was looking at... guess that is why it's down from their website. I am glad honestly, I don't think I would have pulled the trigger with the amount of fading on the bumpers and side skirt... I was hoping someone would save me from a bad decision... LOL. The search for my GS400 replacement continues... stay tuned.
Good to know... I have a feeling though this car has been sitting outside too long in the Florida sun without protection because the bumpers and side skirt look a lot more off than normal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CK9887
It’s very common for there to be a slight variation with the paint between metal and plastic body panels, especially with metallic or pearl paints.
I have seen multiple Molten Pearl RCF’s in person and I have noticed a slight variation on all of them between the rocker panel and quarter panel. It’s very minor and most people would never notice, but it is there.
Here is a stock photo. Look where the rocker meets the quarter panel. There’s a variation. Dependent on lightning conditions also, it’s not always noticeable. Obviously you need to do your own due diligence to determine if the car has been repainted but I’m just saying it is common for cars to have some variation panel to panel from the factory.
Question... I drove a 2015 RC 350 today RWD... Why does the RCF feel so much heavier when driving than the RC 350? I mean I know it's a heavier car but I was surprised how different the 2 cars feel.
Question... I drove a 2015 RC 350 today RWD... Why does the RCF feel so much heavier when driving than the RC 350? I mean I know it's a heavier car but I was surprised how different the 2 cars feel.
The RC350 RWD is in the 38XX lbs range. 80% of RCF underpinnings are different from RC350. I test drove an RC350 AWD F-sport a few years ago back to back with an IS350 F-sport, but cannot make a comparison with my RCF other than the fact that my RCF feels much stiffer than both of those cars (which felt soft to me even with AVS in sport+).
Objectively, RCF is wider and has a wider track so naturally it will feel wider/bigger on the road especially on slow speed, small roads. Also, driving modes/rpm in the RCF are a lot more Jekyll and hyde than in the RC350. If one drives them back to back on the track with sport+/manual and TVD in track mode, the RCF has a lot higher limits everywhere, but it is irrelevant to the type of driving you are gauging the cars in so RC350 might be the better car for your case.
The RCF you drove had some unknown tires that did not have tread blocks typical of a high performance summer tires. I don't know what type they were, but tires make a huge difference in how tossable the car feels especially if they happen to not be proper performance tires.
I definitely meant in just normal in town driving... but yeah, the RCF doesn't feel like the RC 350 with just more power, so when I drove the RC 350 I was just a little surprised.
I definitely meant in just normal in town driving... but yeah, the RCF doesn't feel like the RC 350 with just more power, so when I drove the RC 350 I was just a little surprised.
As per Lexus 80% of the cars are different. They share the same basic architecture, some interior components, lights etc, Difference wise, they have different suspension components, engine, transmission system, differentials, exterior body panels, seats. RCF has cooling systems for engine, transmission and oil. Also, a lot of chassis bracings for rigidity in the trunk (no folding seats in RCF), engine compartment, underbody and also in the door panels..
Out of curiosity, what is your purchase budget? How about an annual maintenance budget? That may be the true deciding factor of the RCF vs the RC 350 F-Sport. Some of the RCF owners can respond here but when I was looking at the RCF's in the mid to upper 30s they were either higher mileage, inconsistent maintenance history, many owners, auction cars, possible accident damage, some issues that needed to be addressed. Not to say these are elimination factors but I wanted clean one owner, no accidents, complete maintenance history, etc. I found the nicer low mileage clean history ones were in the low to mid 40s for 2015 & 2016s.
It certainly has two different personalities. Manual/Sport+ is the most aggressive setting for everything. It quickens/sharpens the steering, throttle response, brakes, transmission and tightens the suspension (2017+). It will make respond to inputs a lot faster in the aggressive modes. I have the TVD, which also makes a significant difference in how aggressive the car wants to turns-in off center.
Also, the car's power band is designed to be a high revving engine so a lot of downshifts and revving to redline give the best acceleration. I personally love the jekyll and hyde character. Although, I always keep it in sport+/manual mode with TVD in slalom mode for city roads.
Not sure about the plastic part comment as I don't notice any difference in mine. What parts are you referring to?
Classic Rolla with the TVD spiel. You should make a YouTube video and just link it. 😂
