Is it ok to buy a 36k miles RCF?
05-29-18, 11:30 PM
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Is it ok to buy a 36k miles RCF?
HI everyone, I used to own a RCF with 26k miles on it but I was hitted by a suv while my car was parking on the street last week. (that suv was lost control when he was turning and roll over then hit my car’s right side) although the frame, transmission and engine is not damaged, the repair cost is too high. As result, insurance company totaled my car and paid me $51000 and I decided buy another RCF.
But I don’t want spend them all ( I want save some money and trade in for a LC500 in near future), after some research I found that there’s a $39900 RCF with 36K miles on it. I am wondering is RCF still reliable with 36k miles? I haven’t see this RCF yet. And what should I check expect for break and tire when I see that car in person?
By the way, If performance package is added, is there much difference in driving experience(Daily no track)?
But I don’t want spend them all ( I want save some money and trade in for a LC500 in near future), after some research I found that there’s a $39900 RCF with 36K miles on it. I am wondering is RCF still reliable with 36k miles? I haven’t see this RCF yet. And what should I check expect for break and tire when I see that car in person?
By the way, If performance package is added, is there much difference in driving experience(Daily no track)?
Last edited by enochgao; 05-30-18 at 12:17 AM.
05-29-18, 11:43 PM
#2
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Not all miles are created equal. High mileage doesn't necessarily mean high wear.
Usually very high mileage cars = freeway miles, low mileage = city/parking lot miles -- obviously YMMV.
That's not to say high mileage is better, just foot for thought.
Usually very high mileage cars = freeway miles, low mileage = city/parking lot miles -- obviously YMMV.
That's not to say high mileage is better, just foot for thought.
05-30-18, 12:18 AM
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Thx, I decided to take a inspector with me when I see that car.
05-30-18, 07:12 AM
#4
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Save !!!
First off- what year was your RCF that was totaled? And what model year are you looking at buying?
If you truly want the LC500- Do NOT buy the RCF. Buy something to get you around until you can REALLY get the car of your dreams here (Actually, a car many dream of) I would bank that money since it sounds like they did you a solid, and start putting away Franklins as often as humanly possible young man!
If you truly want the LC500- Do NOT buy the RCF. Buy something to get you around until you can REALLY get the car of your dreams here (Actually, a car many dream of) I would bank that money since it sounds like they did you a solid, and start putting away Franklins as often as humanly possible young man!
Last edited by GunnyFitz; 05-30-18 at 07:13 AM. Reason: Grammar
05-30-18, 07:48 AM
#5
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Another way to look at this:
At the price you are trying to buy the other RCF at 36K+ miles..... That RCF MAYBE at the BOTTOM of the depreciation curve and essentially flattened out and from this point on just a VERY SLOW STRAIGHT LINE DOWN (The exponential downward curve depreciation is pretty much over with.) .
So if you buy a RCF like this and decides to sell a couple of years later, you will not loose AS much (versus if you bought a much newer RCF). Plus at that time the LC500 of a couple of years old will have depreciated more and price is lower by that time. Not to mention you can have plenty of time in the years looking for that right LC500.
So assuming that RCF checks out and ALL SYSTEMS IN GOOD WORKING CONDITION, then I would go for it. However, I would STILL ask for an additional discount in the orders of around $4500 OFF. YOU WILL NEED THIS when it comes time to replace the tires and brakes!!! Tires are around $350 to $500 EACH PLUS INSTALLATION (depending on which ones you buy). BRAKES PADS are easy to swap out IF YOU KNOW HOW. Rotors (there are differences of opnions out there) MAY NOT NEED REPLACEMENT IF STILL IN GOOD CONDITION AND ABOVE TOLERANCE LEVELS/MINIMUM THICKNESS AND NOT WRAPPED). IF you just go to the Lexus dealership to get brakes done, then they are going to have pads and rotors replaced which will run you AT LEAST one G per axle or more!!!
Also is this RCF from a "dealer"? Or private individual?
If from private individual, try to find out if he has a loan on it and what is the balance. If all paid off and no liens, then you can negotiate lower. Otherwise, you maybe stuck with the balance of the loan as the bottom price he can sell for (unless he's got additional cash to make up for the deficit. Even if true, it's unlikely. I wouldn't do it if I'm selling the car, but you never know until you ask.)
If from a car dealership, then you MAY have more leadway, (depending on how long the car's been on the lot.)
Usually the 30, 60, 90 days rule works. At each time frame, the more critical it is for them to unload the car. Usually at 90 day mark, the car goes to auction (so they can "EXCHANGE" for a new inventory). So OFFER them at least $4500 less than the asking price and see what happens. The worst thing can happen is they say no and you go on. Once a good friend of mine in the used car business told me, if he sees a QUALIFIED customer at his dealership, he is NOT going to let him walk out until he SELLS him a car!!! So if they say no and let you walk out, DO THIS: GIVE THEM on your business card (or if you don't have one with you, just use his) and write on the back your name, cell number, year,make ,model, and THE PRICE YOU ARE WILLING TO PAY. Ask him to call you when the price is right. This will usually occur in 24 to 48 hours. Beyond that, it is a no go in my experience. Try it. It worked numerous times for me. When I bought my Lexus Certified RCF, a couple of Lexus dealership called me back the day after I bought my RCF with the price I had written down on my business card. But it was too late FOR THEM.....I HAD ALREADY BOUGHT A RCF AT MY PRICE.
Good luck.
At the price you are trying to buy the other RCF at 36K+ miles..... That RCF MAYBE at the BOTTOM of the depreciation curve and essentially flattened out and from this point on just a VERY SLOW STRAIGHT LINE DOWN (The exponential downward curve depreciation is pretty much over with.) .
So if you buy a RCF like this and decides to sell a couple of years later, you will not loose AS much (versus if you bought a much newer RCF). Plus at that time the LC500 of a couple of years old will have depreciated more and price is lower by that time. Not to mention you can have plenty of time in the years looking for that right LC500.
So assuming that RCF checks out and ALL SYSTEMS IN GOOD WORKING CONDITION, then I would go for it. However, I would STILL ask for an additional discount in the orders of around $4500 OFF. YOU WILL NEED THIS when it comes time to replace the tires and brakes!!! Tires are around $350 to $500 EACH PLUS INSTALLATION (depending on which ones you buy). BRAKES PADS are easy to swap out IF YOU KNOW HOW. Rotors (there are differences of opnions out there) MAY NOT NEED REPLACEMENT IF STILL IN GOOD CONDITION AND ABOVE TOLERANCE LEVELS/MINIMUM THICKNESS AND NOT WRAPPED). IF you just go to the Lexus dealership to get brakes done, then they are going to have pads and rotors replaced which will run you AT LEAST one G per axle or more!!!
Also is this RCF from a "dealer"? Or private individual?
If from private individual, try to find out if he has a loan on it and what is the balance. If all paid off and no liens, then you can negotiate lower. Otherwise, you maybe stuck with the balance of the loan as the bottom price he can sell for (unless he's got additional cash to make up for the deficit. Even if true, it's unlikely. I wouldn't do it if I'm selling the car, but you never know until you ask.)
If from a car dealership, then you MAY have more leadway, (depending on how long the car's been on the lot.)
Usually the 30, 60, 90 days rule works. At each time frame, the more critical it is for them to unload the car. Usually at 90 day mark, the car goes to auction (so they can "EXCHANGE" for a new inventory). So OFFER them at least $4500 less than the asking price and see what happens. The worst thing can happen is they say no and you go on. Once a good friend of mine in the used car business told me, if he sees a QUALIFIED customer at his dealership, he is NOT going to let him walk out until he SELLS him a car!!! So if they say no and let you walk out, DO THIS: GIVE THEM on your business card (or if you don't have one with you, just use his) and write on the back your name, cell number, year,make ,model, and THE PRICE YOU ARE WILLING TO PAY. Ask him to call you when the price is right. This will usually occur in 24 to 48 hours. Beyond that, it is a no go in my experience. Try it. It worked numerous times for me. When I bought my Lexus Certified RCF, a couple of Lexus dealership called me back the day after I bought my RCF with the price I had written down on my business card. But it was too late FOR THEM.....I HAD ALREADY BOUGHT A RCF AT MY PRICE.
Good luck.
First off- what year was your RCF that was totaled? And what model year are you looking at buying?
If you truly want the LC500- Do NOT buy the RCF. Buy something to get you around until you can REALLY get the car of your dreams here (Actually, a car many dream of) I would bank that money since it sounds like they did you a solid, and start putting away Franklins as often as humanly possible young man!
If you truly want the LC500- Do NOT buy the RCF. Buy something to get you around until you can REALLY get the car of your dreams here (Actually, a car many dream of) I would bank that money since it sounds like they did you a solid, and start putting away Franklins as often as humanly possible young man!
Last edited by lexusrus; 05-30-18 at 08:04 AM.
05-30-18, 10:26 AM
#6
HI everyone, I used to own a RCF with 26k miles on it but I was hitted by a suv while my car was parking on the street last week. (that suv was lost control when he was turning and roll over then hit my car’s right side) although the frame, transmission and engine is not damaged, the repair cost is too high. As result, insurance company totaled my car and paid me $51000 and I decided buy another RCF.
But I don’t want spend them all ( I want save some money and trade in for a LC500 in near future), after some research I found that there’s a $39900 RCF with 36K miles on it. I am wondering is RCF still reliable with 36k miles? I haven’t see this RCF yet. And what should I check expect for break and tire when I see that car in person?
By the way, If performance package is added, is there much difference in driving experience(Daily no track)?
But I don’t want spend them all ( I want save some money and trade in for a LC500 in near future), after some research I found that there’s a $39900 RCF with 36K miles on it. I am wondering is RCF still reliable with 36k miles? I haven’t see this RCF yet. And what should I check expect for break and tire when I see that car in person?
By the way, If performance package is added, is there much difference in driving experience(Daily no track)?
I am also looking into a LC500, but will wait 2 years or so when the prices go down. Or, when I take a LC500 test drive, and I find there are almost no added benefits with the LC500, I may just buy me a newer RCF!
05-30-18, 01:39 PM
#7
Pole Position
I got a feeling that our RCF will be discontinued in about two to three years........
If it has new (or almost new), tires, and brake rotors and pads, then possibly a good deal. If these items need replacement, consider the added cost. Bought my 2015 with 30,000 miles on it. Dealership at 30,000 miles replaced tires, rotors and pads, changed oil and both filters, so basically to me, was like a new car. Having a "certified" used car from the dealership has it benefits. Buying from someplace else, and look hard at what you are getting!
I am also looking into a LC500, but will wait 2 years or so when the prices go down. Or, when I take a LC500 test drive, and I find there are almost no added benefits with the LC500, I may just buy me a newer RCF!
I am also looking into a LC500, but will wait 2 years or so when the prices go down. Or, when I take a LC500 test drive, and I find there are almost no added benefits with the LC500, I may just buy me a newer RCF!
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05-30-18, 01:39 PM
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Another way to look at this:
At the price you are trying to buy the other RCF at 36K+ miles..... That RCF MAYBE at the BOTTOM of the depreciation curve and essentially flattened out and from this point on just a VERY SLOW STRAIGHT LINE DOWN (The exponential downward curve depreciation is pretty much over with.) .
So if you buy a RCF like this and decides to sell a couple of years later, you will not loose AS much (versus if you bought a much newer RCF). Plus at that time the LC500 of a couple of years old will have depreciated more and price is lower by that time. Not to mention you can have plenty of time in the years looking for that right LC500.
So assuming that RCF checks out and ALL SYSTEMS IN GOOD WORKING CONDITION, then I would go for it. However, I would STILL ask for an additional discount in the orders of around $4500 OFF. YOU WILL NEED THIS when it comes time to replace the tires and brakes!!! Tires are around $350 to $500 EACH PLUS INSTALLATION (depending on which ones you buy). BRAKES PADS are easy to swap out IF YOU KNOW HOW. Rotors (there are differences of opnions out there) MAY NOT NEED REPLACEMENT IF STILL IN GOOD CONDITION AND ABOVE TOLERANCE LEVELS/MINIMUM THICKNESS AND NOT WRAPPED). IF you just go to the Lexus dealership to get brakes done, then they are going to have pads and rotors replaced which will run you AT LEAST one G per axle or more!!!
Also is this RCF from a "dealer"? Or private individual?
If from private individual, try to find out if he has a loan on it and what is the balance. If all paid off and no liens, then you can negotiate lower. Otherwise, you maybe stuck with the balance of the loan as the bottom price he can sell for (unless he's got additional cash to make up for the deficit. Even if true, it's unlikely. I wouldn't do it if I'm selling the car, but you never know until you ask.)
If from a car dealership, then you MAY have more leadway, (depending on how long the car's been on the lot.)
Usually the 30, 60, 90 days rule works. At each time frame, the more critical it is for them to unload the car. Usually at 90 day mark, the car goes to auction (so they can "EXCHANGE" for a new inventory). So OFFER them at least $4500 less than the asking price and see what happens. The worst thing can happen is they say no and you go on. Once a good friend of mine in the used car business told me, if he sees a QUALIFIED customer at his dealership, he is NOT going to let him walk out until he SELLS him a car!!! So if they say no and let you walk out, DO THIS: GIVE THEM on your business card (or if you don't have one with you, just use his) and write on the back your name, cell number, year,make ,model, and THE PRICE YOU ARE WILLING TO PAY. Ask him to call you when the price is right. This will usually occur in 24 to 48 hours. Beyond that, it is a no go in my experience. Try it. It worked numerous times for me. When I bought my Lexus Certified RCF, a couple of Lexus dealership called me back the day after I bought my RCF with the price I had written down on my business card. But it was too late FOR THEM.....I HAD ALREADY BOUGHT A RCF AT MY PRICE.
Good luck.
At the price you are trying to buy the other RCF at 36K+ miles..... That RCF MAYBE at the BOTTOM of the depreciation curve and essentially flattened out and from this point on just a VERY SLOW STRAIGHT LINE DOWN (The exponential downward curve depreciation is pretty much over with.) .
So if you buy a RCF like this and decides to sell a couple of years later, you will not loose AS much (versus if you bought a much newer RCF). Plus at that time the LC500 of a couple of years old will have depreciated more and price is lower by that time. Not to mention you can have plenty of time in the years looking for that right LC500.
So assuming that RCF checks out and ALL SYSTEMS IN GOOD WORKING CONDITION, then I would go for it. However, I would STILL ask for an additional discount in the orders of around $4500 OFF. YOU WILL NEED THIS when it comes time to replace the tires and brakes!!! Tires are around $350 to $500 EACH PLUS INSTALLATION (depending on which ones you buy). BRAKES PADS are easy to swap out IF YOU KNOW HOW. Rotors (there are differences of opnions out there) MAY NOT NEED REPLACEMENT IF STILL IN GOOD CONDITION AND ABOVE TOLERANCE LEVELS/MINIMUM THICKNESS AND NOT WRAPPED). IF you just go to the Lexus dealership to get brakes done, then they are going to have pads and rotors replaced which will run you AT LEAST one G per axle or more!!!
Also is this RCF from a "dealer"? Or private individual?
If from private individual, try to find out if he has a loan on it and what is the balance. If all paid off and no liens, then you can negotiate lower. Otherwise, you maybe stuck with the balance of the loan as the bottom price he can sell for (unless he's got additional cash to make up for the deficit. Even if true, it's unlikely. I wouldn't do it if I'm selling the car, but you never know until you ask.)
If from a car dealership, then you MAY have more leadway, (depending on how long the car's been on the lot.)
Usually the 30, 60, 90 days rule works. At each time frame, the more critical it is for them to unload the car. Usually at 90 day mark, the car goes to auction (so they can "EXCHANGE" for a new inventory). So OFFER them at least $4500 less than the asking price and see what happens. The worst thing can happen is they say no and you go on. Once a good friend of mine in the used car business told me, if he sees a QUALIFIED customer at his dealership, he is NOT going to let him walk out until he SELLS him a car!!! So if they say no and let you walk out, DO THIS: GIVE THEM on your business card (or if you don't have one with you, just use his) and write on the back your name, cell number, year,make ,model, and THE PRICE YOU ARE WILLING TO PAY. Ask him to call you when the price is right. This will usually occur in 24 to 48 hours. Beyond that, it is a no go in my experience. Try it. It worked numerous times for me. When I bought my Lexus Certified RCF, a couple of Lexus dealership called me back the day after I bought my RCF with the price I had written down on my business card. But it was too late FOR THEM.....I HAD ALREADY BOUGHT A RCF AT MY PRICE.
Good luck.
05-30-18, 01:47 PM
#9
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If it has new (or almost new), tires, and brake rotors and pads, then possibly a good deal. If these items need replacement, consider the added cost. Bought my 2015 with 30,000 miles on it. Dealership at 30,000 miles replaced tires, rotors and pads, changed oil and both filters, so basically to me, was like a new car. Having a "certified" used car from the dealership has it benefits. Buying from someplace else, and look hard at what you are getting!
I am also looking into a LC500, but will wait 2 years or so when the prices go down. Or, when I take a LC500 test drive, and I find there are almost no added benefits with the LC500, I may just buy me a newer RCF!
I am also looking into a LC500, but will wait 2 years or so when the prices go down. Or, when I take a LC500 test drive, and I find there are almost no added benefits with the LC500, I may just buy me a newer RCF!
05-30-18, 02:37 PM
#10
Yes, I think the RCF will disappear soon. No sense to have both the LC500 and RCF out there for the sales those two generate. Just want a nice luxury car that goes fast, and is dependable. Right now, unless something else comes out, next car will be another RCF or a LC500. Had a nice Mercedes coupe, sometimes think about getting another one, but did not like the feeling that to keep it from falling apart, I had to baby it. With a Lexus, I have confidence that if I drive it without being a maniac, the car will only need the required maintenance. Sometimes a Porsche sounds like a good idea, but don't think for a daily driver, it would stay together as well as a Lexus. I'm on Lexus number 6, with no problems, not even minor ones, with any of them, so hard to not go with another one again.
05-30-18, 04:13 PM
#11
05-30-18, 04:41 PM
#12
thanks for the reply. I just checked that rcf history this morning and found that that car was damaged in an accident. I give up on that rcf. Right now I am thinking use all the insurance money to buy a 15k miles rcf with performance package. Price for that is 47k without tax and other fees. I checked history that car is perfect. I think this is a pretty good deal.
I have no stats, it just seems that way.
05-31-18, 04:16 AM
#13
Instructor
**Unsubscribed** lmfao
05-31-18, 07:12 AM
#14
Lexus Test Driver
They don't compete with each other. RCF is cheaper, has less luxury, but is smaller, lighter, more agile and quicker due to the ~ 400 lbs lighter weight. LC500 is more expensive, more luxurious, bigger, more modern tech and heavier.
05-31-18, 12:54 PM
#15
I believe they compete with each other since they both have two doors! If my next car will be Lexus #7, and want a 2 door, how many choices do I have? Usually buy 2-3 year old very nice used cars, so be interesting to see what the used car price differences will be between the RCF and the LC500.