Appreciate the offer, but I think I'll go for the new updated tuner given the total price vs what you get. It's a fair price, just not for me right now.

 

If you install the tune and just leave it without the tuner as a gauge, then it's no difference. I lowered the price either way.

 

Wonder if anyone here has installed just the turbo muffler delete & charge pipe from D3. When I called them last week they said just that plus the tuner can target around 280whp, but don't see any mention of anything like that on the forums. It does sound like the charge pipe + muffler delete are pretty recent additions to the D3 offerings though.

I'm definitely interested in going that route, if I end up being the first one to do it I'll report back.

 

I know I'm excluded from this since I did the turbo, midpipe, downpipe, etc all at once, but I really think it builds a great (and necessary) pathway if you're interested in grabbing a D3 turbo in the future. You'll definitely push more boost on stage 2. Can't say how much more cause I don't have the numbers. Yes, those are fairly recent additions to D3's offerings and there is still more that they're working on.

Also just clarifying here: There may have been a misunderstanding on the phone. 280whp is the highest whp our cars have achieved (with upgraded turbo)....until D3 "decrypts" the ECU some more. If my memory serves correct, I'd expect the Stage 2 to make a bit less than that.

 

I thought there might be a misunderstanding as well since that doesn't line up with anything I've read on the forums here. However, I just emailed D3 again to clarify and specifically asked what I should expect "from installing the charge pipe, muffler delete and stage 2 tune", and they confirmed it should make around 280 torque. I'm ordering just the tuner for now but will likely try upgrading to the stage 2 down the line (after triple checking with the D3 guys again) since thats very impressive $ for performance.

 

I am FBO, catless DP, full ark exhaust, charge pipe and TMD, i dont think im making near 280 whp but played with the tune in the software, when im in sports mode, the torque is drastically different feels alot faster.

 

Hello,

I am considering to get this tune for my car as well. I have been using my 2016 IS 200t since I got it with an accelerator booster (Sprintbooster) and then with a Piggy-Back device to trick the boost.

I have been satisfied with the results. Living in Europe, fuel I use here has always been 100 RON on this car (which should be like 95 US Octane). However, last summer I have had a couple of CELs due to hot and humid weather, happened when in Greece and I guess that their fuel might have been a bit worse than the usual. So I think that having an ECU tune would be more stable and better overall, adjusting to all conditions properly.

So, my questions would be:

- In case the process of writing to ECU fails for some reason, can this be recoverable or things get more complicated? I would like to know how to avoid and make sure that this wouldn't happen. I have been a Linux user for many years, so Windows is not my current strong point.

- Can I use several combinations on a tune mapped on the selector: ECO, Normal and SPORT. For instance, I would like to leave the ECO mode to the base file defaults, but to have the best acceleration pattern on both Normal and Sport. And then on Sport to have a better/more responsive gear change. Would this be possible?

I have also asked them for this information, but was hoping that someone here could provide his experience from their point of view.

Once again, I am interested in the Software not in the Device they sell. So my questions are related strictly to their D3 Pro Tuner.

 

I am currently a happy user of D3 tune. Their customer service is top notch - these guys are just awesome!
I live in Romania, Europe so my option was to buy a genuine Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 OBD device locally and to get D3 Pro Tuner software.

After reading my base file calibration all seemed to be good, however I managed to brick my ECU at the first write! Damn, I did a huge mistake. I have to say I hate Windows OS and haven't used it for more than 15 years! I am a software guy and use Linux an all my devices! So I used the Pro Tuner software in a virtual machine with a recently bought Windows license, but this HAS TO BE AVOIDED!

So, imagine Friday evening my car ECU bricked, I was a bit upset. I called them in the US over the phone and received all the support needed, that included diagrams and how to un-brick my ECU. I had to get the ECU out of the car, which is very simple to do - car battery disconnected before that, 3 screws on the plastic cover, another 2 inside to get the ECU out! Then I put it on my workbench and the process was super easy, with careful wiring and double-triple check for not shorting pins!
I have to mention, that on Saturday I did receive additional support over the email right when I was doing the ECU un-brick procedure, which has been really nice!

Now I run the 93 HP Throttle Enhanced tune, and my first impressions compared to my previous piggy-back device are very good. I also have a pedal device that I am fiddling with, in order to find the perfect setting for the current tune.

I would recommend these guys to anyone who's interested in tuning the software of the car!

 

Hey everyone!

Just wanted to drop an update and let you all know that myself and a few other 200t's have created a discord for us all to connect, share modifications, and spread news on the 200t.
Currently, there are about ~40 active members. The discord contains manuals on installation procedures, modification lists, advice, and many experienced owners. Feel free to join on in!

We had a FB Messenger group before, but the Admin stopped caring and it was overrun by bots.

https://discord.gg/enX7frJPWN
https://discord.gg/enX7frJPWN

 

Are you still selling?

 

For those with the handheld tuner, are those prone to bricking the ECU with the preloaded tunes or is it just the windows based software on the computer that does it?

 

This is a tough question. I am using the software, not the handheld device. I'm pretty sure that most people didn't have issues. In my case I bricked my ECU because I was running Windows on VirtualBox from Linux Ubuntu OS. And that happened despite having a genuine Tactrix OBD device and using a genuine, registered and licensed Windows.
However, the ECU is recoverable. I would suggest that you get fully prepared for any scenario, maybe choose a day that suits your schedule to accomodate such thing. In case you brick it, you either have to un-brick it yourself or send it to their shop to do it, so a day or two without car.

 

Received my D3 Tuner and flashed one of the preloaded tunes on. Is anyone else running these tunes on 91 octane?

 

Anyone running the Stage 2 tune? If so, worth it over the preloaded tunes?

 

I've had the D3 tuner for at least a year+ by now and have run my car with a combination of 95 and 98RON. In Singapore, that translates to 91 and 94 octane respectively.

Before I got the tuner I did ask Dinesh from D3 if this is a problem (with lower octane fuel) and he says 'no' cos the ECU will detect and retard accordingly. This is a comfort as there is a big price difference between 95RON and 98RON here. So far I do not see any issues except that the car does feel like it pulls harder with 98RON.

As to your next post, my Tuner is currently at D3 as it did not work when I last plugged it in (I usually keep it off the car) and they found that there was a problem with the OBD cable. They will be sending it back to me, so I asked them to load Stage 2 in (I run a HPS charge & turbo muffler delete) and charge me for the stage 2 tune too. They were OK with that. Hope it feels different too...