hey guys so bought an is300 and was driving it home about an hour trip when i got to my house check engine light turned on.. as soon as that happened my throttle pedal became unresponsive unless i press it 75 percent down. Got the cel checked and it says TPS... so i changed that but the problem is still there. I toke of the throttle body and this is what happens. If anyone has any clues on what could be the problem Please help me out!!

 

I had a similar thing happen except no CEL. Cleaned my MAF sensor, replaced intake filter and cleaned throttle body because was dirty. I was messing with the throttle body and was doing the same as your vid. I thought was bad at first, but I guess that's how it works. It has a servo that controls the butterfly valve.

http://media.toyota.ca/pr/tci/en/doc...w_it_works.pdf

 

did you calibrate the new sensor

 

If it was only a TPS, it will need calibrated. Sometimes this can be done by re-orienting it - it should have some play in the mounting holes...

Most of the time, however, a TPS will not fix a TPS problem, as the throttle body itself has failed...

What you are seeing is perfectly normal - the throttle cable is only capable of moving the throttle plate 10-15%, as a limp mode safety net, the throttle motor (that big thing on the opposite side) is responsible for opening it the rest of the way...

 

I will give that a try. Thanks
Yes i installed new tps sensor and set it to 0.65 volts at idle. Car drove fine for 20 min untill i floored it past 5k rpms and check engine light came back on so i hooked up the obd scanner again and got code p1121 accelerator pedal position sensor.
Well i now have a check engine light again after driving around for 20min and again went into limp mode. Code is P1121 p1121 accelerator pedal position sensor

 

Ok guys after installing new tps sensor adjusted it to 0.65v at idle. It drove great for 20 min untill i gave it about 80 percent throttle and CEL light came back on.. The code is now P1121 accelerator pedal position sensor.. Someone please help!!

 

i had the same problem a few weeks ago when you calibrated it did you unplug the motor next to it? it makes a differance then plug it back in after words

alot of people end up swapping out the throttle body but in my case it was just the tps

 

did op ever solve the issue?

I also notice that its good to reset the ECU with a OBD2. Even if you mess with the TPS, and If your doing it when there is power, it can cause the ECU to throw a code again.

I know this cause I did it a lot of times while trying to get my project working. I thought I was doing something wrong, but the reset helps, others at times I would get the CEL and trac flashing. But if I reset it without doing any adjustments it was fine

I had many diff % on the TPS and I had many tests done and prob still to do heh

Also if you unplug the motor, while there is power, it can throw a code as well. I learned to turn off the power, then turn it back on.

Its the little things like that, that can make you think your doing something wrong, cause you still get a CEL

 

Had the same issue on my '98 GS. Dealer fixed it for free under a special program related to a lawsuit settlement. Call your dealer to see if your car is covered and they can explain it to you.

Here is some info....

"Since the Court has finally approved the settlement, for Class Members who still possess their Subject Vehicles, Toyota is implementing a Customer Support Program that will stand by the reliability of the vehicles by providing provide prospective coverage for repairs and adjustments needed to correct defects in materials or workmanship in certain parts associated with the vehicle’s operation at no cost to the owner or lessee if any of those parts fail, break, or malfunction. The Customer Support Program will last for ten (10) years after the expiration of any existing warranty for each of the covered parts, subject to a maximum limit of 150,000 miles, except that each eligible vehicle will receive no less than three (3) years of coverage from the date of final settlement approval (regardless of when the underlying warranty expires and your vehicle’s mileage), if the Court finally approves the settlement. The covered parts are the: (i) engine control module; (ii) cruise control switch; (iii) accelerator pedal assembly; (iv) stop lamp switch; and (v) throttle body assembly.] The Customer Support Program is transferable with the Subject Vehicle. Inoperable vehicles and vehicles with a salvaged, rebuilt or flood-damaged title are not eligible for the Customer Support Program.

If you are a Class Member who is eligible for the Customer Support Program, you need not take any action in order to be eligible to participate in the Customer Support Program. If a covered part fails, breaks, or malfunctions due to a defect in materials or workmanship from the date of final approval through the end of the Customer Service Program, you should take your vehicle to a Toyota/Lexus/Scion authorized dealer for repair or adjustment under the Customer Support Program."

 

Can anyone please give me some ideas I had a sparkie come out and look at my 1999 is300 because it was idling really low and said I needed to replace spark plugs so have done this and had to call him back then he said it was a coil so I have now replaced the coil now my car revving high and low by itself revs about 2-3 times then dies has anyone got any ideas on what this could be please as I'm new to fixing cars. Thank you

 

Hello everyone,

I am new to owning a Lexus. I have wanted a Lexus IS300 for a year now and just bought one. It has a lot more problems than first realized. Main thing I am trying to figure out right now is the Acceleration Pedal Position Sensor. My CEL was on when bought car saying O2 sensor. Whomever had the vehicle prior put headers on it and totally deleted the Bank 2 O2 sensor. Well, I got that fixed and took care of the VVT screen problem, and now my check engine light is back on with the APP Sensor malfunction code. I noticed that several of you have had a similar problem with the throttle not wanting to engage until 75% of the way and I am trying to figure this out as well. But I am not getting any TPS codes with my CEL. I did not have this problem until I put the TB back on the car after taking it off to clean. Is there a way I can test the APP Sensor before I just spend the money to replace it and it not be the problem? Any information ya'll can provide to help me fix this would be greatly appreciated. I paid 4k for the car and have already put several hundred into it and it needs a lot more. I would really like to do what I can without having to spend to much more money.

Thanks!

 

again sounds like you need a throttle body...

 

as well az doing everything you have done it pay to check all your coils for spilts and to check all pipes for small air leaks it pays to check cos I had 5 dinostic checks done by a auto Sparkie thought it was throttle body but was split coils and a slight air leak in pipe tiny air leak no harm in checking hope this helps

 

I have the same problem here. I have already replace throttle motor and it work for couple months
it came back again yesterday everytime i give it full throttle. it only does it when it in full throttle. even tho the car was not running ( key on engine off) if i press down the gas pedal always down the motor will stop working after 2sec