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Originally Posted by denut-L
(Post 6735349)
Yeah, it's very easy. I'm not planning on keeping this motor very long so i just went the easy way since i had the gasket maker laying around.
2 1/2 qts came out and i just refilled it back with new tranny oil. Oh well, tranny blew up because of something but i'll have to check tomorrow to see what happened. j/k :) it felt like it did shift faster going full throttle compared to before but i'll have to see when i race my bud's M3 again. when we raced he would gain on me everytime i shifted gears, due to the slow shifts. Seems like the shifts are also smoother like it didnt shift gears at all. pretty cool i say. Oh btw remember to unplug your battery before you do this as i got a CEL after this and had to reset it cause i forgot to do it - smoother, perhaps quicker shifting due to replacing the fluid with new - you just re-set your computer; whenever I re-set my computer it always seems to be running better for the first 5 miles or so. I just want to see if these are REAL results and not from anything else. Perhaps 1 FULL WEEK of driving will tell the truth. Please report back and thanks for doing this! |
Did it this afternoon.
It does not matter how many times you rotate the valve 360 degrees, it is a floating valve. The difference in line pressure is accomplished because the three "indentations" are of different thicknesses. Depending on which "cutout" the key sits in determines the line pressure. It definitely made a difference in shift speed and firmness. No where near a shift kit and not objectionable at all. I am getting a slight 1-2 shift flare at part throttle sometimes now though, I'll wait to see if it works itself out or dig in to see if I can find the problem. I did not disconnect the battery nor did I get a CEL. |
Originally Posted by DeanGS
(Post 6735510)
Did it this afternoon.
It does not matter how many times you rotate the valve 360 degrees, it is a floating valve. The difference in line pressure is accomplished because the three "indentations" are of different thicknesses. Depending on which "cutout" the key sits in determines the line pressure. It definitely made a difference in shift speed and firmness. No where near a shift kit and not objectionable at all. I am getting a slight 1-2 shift flare at part throttle sometimes now though, I'll wait to see if it works itself out or dig in to see if I can find the problem. I did not disconnect the battery nor did I get a CEL. Good Info. |
Bump
anymore updates? anyone else try it? |
You guys should get Jeff to be involve in this...
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Originally Posted by GS4_Fiend
(Post 6745508)
You guys should get Jeff to be involve in this...
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All A650s in the GS line are the same internally. Only difference between the GS3 and GS4 is the torque converter and bell housing.
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Originally Posted by sakataj
(Post 6745704)
does the gs300 tranny that jeff has, have this same valve? i would assume so but i havent ever paid attention to the I-6 or its tranny
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any updates?
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No problems, the1-2 shift flare went away the next day. Shifts are still firmer.
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Very good mod...did it the other day. Shifts are crisp and firm. It's very similar to a mild shift kit. :thumbup:
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Originally Posted by erikbang
(Post 6770699)
Very good mod...did it the other day. Shifts are crisp and firm. It's very similar to a mild shift kit. :thumbup:
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It was 3 clicks clockwise. Tab will fall down if you let it, so be careful. This is not 3 full rotations.
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Anyone else try it? Curious about any long term effects.
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Originally Posted by erikbang
(Post 6771825)
It was 3 clicks clockwise. Tab will fall down if you let it, so be careful. This is not 3 full rotations.
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