JDM 2jzgte vvti swap GS300
04-01-12, 08:05 PM
#121
Help still needed guys
Today i did more wiring and installed my intercooler. i also did some checking as to why my car wont start and founded out that I wasnt getting any spark. I switched the igniter to the 2jzge igniter just for the hell of it and I got spark. started the car and it ran for about 10 seconds and died. from there everytime i try starting it, it would act like its going to start but doesnt. I checked my fuel system and the pump is running on crank but i still wasnt getting a start. when i disconnect the feed line of the pump fuel shoots out on crank. I had the return line disconnected and i wasnt getting fuel to return to the pump. funnything is just yesterday all the stuff worked fine. the line is divided in sections, theres the feed line that starts under the driver's feed to the fuel damper, then there is the line that runs to the tank with another split just before the tank. It seems like im not getting fuel to the rail, so i disconnected the lines where it screws in and tried cranking it over, the pump was running but fuel wasnt coming out. i reconnected that line, and disconected the line just before the fuel tank. on crank i had fuel coming out of that line. it made me believe that the middle line was clogged. i bypassed it with another line from the tank to the damper line still couldnt get it to start. it actsl like its going to but nothing. these are some picture of where im at if it helps.
front mount intercooler
MAF hooked up below charge pipe
[URL=http://s1181.photobucket.com/albums/x421/pliccaid/?action=view¤t=start7vid.mp4][IMG]http://i1
I really need some help guys if you have any ideas please drop in!!
lol, i just noticed that videso is sideways. any clue how I can fix that?
Today i did more wiring and installed my intercooler. i also did some checking as to why my car wont start and founded out that I wasnt getting any spark. I switched the igniter to the 2jzge igniter just for the hell of it and I got spark. started the car and it ran for about 10 seconds and died. from there everytime i try starting it, it would act like its going to start but doesnt. I checked my fuel system and the pump is running on crank but i still wasnt getting a start. when i disconnect the feed line of the pump fuel shoots out on crank. I had the return line disconnected and i wasnt getting fuel to return to the pump. funnything is just yesterday all the stuff worked fine. the line is divided in sections, theres the feed line that starts under the driver's feed to the fuel damper, then there is the line that runs to the tank with another split just before the tank. It seems like im not getting fuel to the rail, so i disconnected the lines where it screws in and tried cranking it over, the pump was running but fuel wasnt coming out. i reconnected that line, and disconected the line just before the fuel tank. on crank i had fuel coming out of that line. it made me believe that the middle line was clogged. i bypassed it with another line from the tank to the damper line still couldnt get it to start. it actsl like its going to but nothing. these are some picture of where im at if it helps.
front mount intercooler
MAF hooked up below charge pipe
[URL=http://s1181.photobucket.com/albums/x421/pliccaid/?action=view¤t=start7vid.mp4][IMG]http://i1
I really need some help guys if you have any ideas please drop in!!
lol, i just noticed that videso is sideways. any clue how I can fix that?
04-02-12, 07:55 AM
#123
I'll see what I can find at home later on the wiring. I know there were some ecu pins on those diagrams that were color coded but undefined as for the function, I had a sheet with all functions listed somewhere.
Have you tried bypassing the damper and go straight to the rail?
Have you tried bypassing the damper and go straight to the rail?
04-02-12, 09:58 AM
#124
That's will be great man, thanks alot.
As for that no start, my boy is saying that the fuel pump is probably not getting a full 12v on crank making it not strong enough to push that fuel up to the rail. So I'll look into the wiring for for the fuel pump later today. Because before i did the harnesses I checked the return line and it was good. I had the three harnesses for the emmobilizer ecu and the two for the gs to the gs ecu and I had fuel Running right through and back to the pump. And the only thing I've done since than was more wiring so there's a possibility.
As for that no start, my boy is saying that the fuel pump is probably not getting a full 12v on crank making it not strong enough to push that fuel up to the rail. So I'll look into the wiring for for the fuel pump later today. Because before i did the harnesses I checked the return line and it was good. I had the three harnesses for the emmobilizer ecu and the two for the gs to the gs ecu and I had fuel Running right through and back to the pump. And the only thing I've done since than was more wiring so there's a possibility.
Last edited by Mr.Gs_GTE; 04-02-12 at 10:04 AM.
04-02-12, 01:39 PM
#125
12v mod for the pump is easy with a single pump, no need to run additional wires, fuses, or relays.. You can do it all right at the pump ecu in the trunk, cut the power in and power out then connect them together, and cut the ground in and ground out then connect them together. This sends the fuel pump power directly from the fuse box up front to the pump and skips the ecu control. You can either remove the ecu and extra wires or just let them mounted and connected, it has no effect otherwise.
04-02-12, 01:48 PM
#126
What do you mean it has no effect otherwise? Skipping the ecu and doing a direct 12vs doesn't make a big difference? Would that eliminate fuel cut or the ecu will still adjust it as needed?
04-02-12, 08:45 PM
#127
It will not eliminate fuel cut, you will still just use a piggyback, standalone, or a fuel cut defender to modify cut..
The 12v mod makes a vast difference in aftermarket pumps as for flow ratings. Most pumps advertise LPH at a full 14.4 volts.
04-03-12, 11:01 PM
#129
Well I got the car to start finally
!!
There's were a few things causing it not to start.
Somehow my fuel pump had slipped down the pump housing and the feed port was not seal. It was getting 12v but half the fuel was circulating and just a little amount was coming out that why the pressure was low. I founded out the the jdm igniter the motor came with is junk As well as the Maf. The car is running off the 2jzge vvti igniter and maf sensor. Can I get the part number from somebody?
A few things tho..
My abs/vsv lights are on. I have the aristo trac ecu and it hooked up but it's still on. I'm not sure if it's becaus the car was running when I hooked it up. I'll look into that better today.
in park, the indicator on the dash does not light up as well as reverse. I got D, N, 2, and L.
It doesnt rev above 3k rpm I think there's a post in here that stated something about that. I'm gonna look into it later.
Does anybody know the part number for the maf sensor an the igniter?
!!There's were a few things causing it not to start.
Somehow my fuel pump had slipped down the pump housing and the feed port was not seal. It was getting 12v but half the fuel was circulating and just a little amount was coming out that why the pressure was low. I founded out the the jdm igniter the motor came with is junk As well as the Maf. The car is running off the 2jzge vvti igniter and maf sensor. Can I get the part number from somebody?
A few things tho..
My abs/vsv lights are on. I have the aristo trac ecu and it hooked up but it's still on. I'm not sure if it's becaus the car was running when I hooked it up. I'll look into that better today.
in park, the indicator on the dash does not light up as well as reverse. I got D, N, 2, and L.
It doesnt rev above 3k rpm I think there's a post in here that stated something about that. I'm gonna look into it later.
Does anybody know the part number for the maf sensor an the igniter?
Last edited by Mr.Gs_GTE; 04-04-12 at 08:53 AM.
04-04-12, 07:44 PM
#130
Im having the same start up issues with my 98 GS3 with gte vvti swap. It cranks and idles some times and doesnt fire others and if it idles the second you touch the throttle it dies. It ran ok for a few days before all of this I am really confused on what it could be now, Im thinking tps sensor maybe because my throttle body is making a hmming noise when the car is on. Im at a loss here and dont want to dump a bunch of money on the wrong stuff i was going to change out the fuel pump with a warlboro im running the stock gte vvti aristo bump assembly might have to do a diy jpk kit or somthing.
Last edited by CivicSteve; 04-04-12 at 09:45 PM.
04-05-12, 05:25 AM
#131
Pull the # 1 plug, have Somebody crank it over while you hold it to the engine/ground if it spark your igniter is good. If not replace it and retry.. If it does spark you probably have a bad maf. If you have the oem maf for your gs you can test the maf. Just plug it in and crank it over. If its the maf and your oem maf is good it should fire right up.
Anybody please! How do you get pass the 3k limp mode. My car won't rev above 3k. Somebody said to move pins around on the igniter. Thing here is there's no detail about how to, i d wanna put the wires in the wrong pins and fry something. Anybody please??
Anybody please! How do you get pass the 3k limp mode. My car won't rev above 3k. Somebody said to move pins around on the igniter. Thing here is there's no detail about how to, i d wanna put the wires in the wrong pins and fry something. Anybody please??
Last edited by Mr.Gs_GTE; 04-05-12 at 09:39 AM.
04-05-12, 07:57 AM
#132
When I did my swap, I had to swap the pins in the grey plug with the black jumper to the right of the orange plug in this pic.
If I remember correct, I used the GS jumper on the Aristo plug because I didn't get the jumper or it was broken or something.
Then you have to rearrange the pins in the plug to make it look like it does in this pic.
once you do that the dash lights light up and the shiftlock will release the shifter.
Hope this helps,
Ryan
If I remember correct, I used the GS jumper on the Aristo plug because I didn't get the jumper or it was broken or something.
Then you have to rearrange the pins in the plug to make it look like it does in this pic.
once you do that the dash lights light up and the shiftlock will release the shifter.
Hope this helps,
Ryan
04-05-12, 09:36 AM
#133
At the back of that black jumper? Yes I did. And my shifter works fine. but I don't have a light up for park and reverse, N is good as well as D, 2 & L.
Was the above description a fix for the rev? Or the shifter and the dash lights?
Was the above description a fix for the rev? Or the shifter and the dash lights?
