speedaddic

iTrader: (10)

lol....I just did the same thing and googled it when I read coco's post.

GS FONZy

iTrader: (6)

What, don't you guys belive me? lol...

speedaddic

iTrader: (10)

no I didn't believe coco cause I know the supras are pigs as well

hacker_720

Wow, I've been thinking the same thing... I want about 400whp NA. I had no idea it was so difficult. What about "there is no replacement for displacement"?

Swap in the tundra block, or over boar the stock block.

How much heavier is just the tundra block from the stock one?

Do the heads and everything match up?

Should one start with the 1uz or the 3uz?

Has anyone EVER put a 6-speed manual on the UZ? in the 2GS?

And...
What about swapping in the lexus V12? I think it would be unbelievably hard and expensive, but would it actually fit? It fits in the Supra, and the supra had the 2jz, and the 2GS has the 2jz... apparently it's 110mm longer then the 3uz...hum...

hawk362

Wow you are going to be putting in way too much effort, time and money if you go N/A and avoid the FI route. A project well over 10K in reality with all the custom fabrications needed if your looking for 400whp including a new motor.

My best advice would be for you to keep it real simple go for the GS430 swap the pistons out to a 9:5 or 9:1 compression and setup a nice nitrous wet kit, whichever company you prefer I personally like Zex, install colder spark plugs, get a window switch so you can control what rpm you spray in and you can avoid first gear. These motors can easily handle up to a 150shot of a wet nitrous shot which is prefectly safe on a motor of this size. Without the cost of the motor this modification will cost you less $1600 for the nitrous, and pistons. Not bad for an additional 150hp/150lbs of torque, the nitrous kits themselves you can pick up for like $500 on EBay everything included.

When where talking to the wheel I am sure you will have no problem reaching your 400whp, but most likely a lot more.

Later on down the road add into the mix the full headers to catback exhaust lined with a true cold air intake, nice set of cams, and you can be looking at a minimum 450whp beast.

Now if your out to set records, pick up a nice tranny cooler, high stall torque converter, you will def. need a rebuilt valve body, shift kit, change out the rear gears, pick up some 110 octane fuel slap on the 200shot, plus drag radials and you will be putting out a 9-10 second 1/4 mile drag monster if not better. But thats all later on down the road if you want.....

speedaddic

iTrader: (10)

nice site:

v8soarer91

i was thinking of heads, cam, tuned exhaust, aftermarket ecu etc and see what id get. Then at the same time i want to go some form of "FI".

engine tuner "aussie" not too far from me is coming up with a single turbo with 230 to 350+ rwkw kit

http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/me...tml?1255931293

and

http://etuner.com.au/etunerforum/vie....php?p=414#414

Rock-a-Lex

iTrader: (4)

Eventhough 400whp NA would be a PITA and a lot more expensive over FI...it is just like anything else; the exclusivity of it! Imagine being at a car show with other Lexus and Toyotas and you are putting out that much power without a supercharger or turbo(s)...the car would definitely stand out, that's for sure!

Remember, that would be around 500 hp (at the crank)! That's more powerful than the IS-F

kamlung

iTrader: (8)

i need more money... :sigh:

JBrady

Ummm, I guess this is directed at me? Ed, you certainly have made great contributions and created a very impressive engine. That said if you are calling 5800rpm LOW RPM??? I guess you have a warped sense of a street car!

When I speak of low RPM I mean from 1500-2500rpm with mid RPM being 2500-4500rpm leaving 4500rpm and up for the "high" range since a stock xUZFE redlines at 6300rpm. So yes, long duration cams will definitely reduce low end power/torque. How much depends on how much duration and/or overlap.

You ask why a turbo 400rwhp easily beats an NA 400rwhp otherwise identical vehicle (weight, tranny, gearing, tire/wheel combo) then you answer your own question stating power under the curve. If the engine is making 400rwhp peak it is making less before and after the peak of course. A turbo engine will be making boost way and well below peak power. This will absolutely create a MUCH stronger torque curve creating a much bigger area under the curve. It would also have better cam timing for the below peak power point further fattening the curve. I don't have to guess since I have built and driven enough turbo vehicles to be experienced in this effect. It is not a guess or even arguable IMO.

ed_jza80

i think youre ignoring the use of appropriate gear/final drive ratios to put the car in an appropriate torque/road speed setting. 1500-2500 rpm is only 'low' in a relative sense if for the same road speed a differently geared car is sitting on 3000rpm. and even harder to argue when both engine move through their tourque curves at different rates due tosaid ratios

as i said, easy to call, difficult to prove not knocking the turbo, dont get me wrong. just balancing the merits of NA when you balance the whole package out. and no, not talking about street cars anymore. didnt know we were? guy asked about 400rwhp NA engine, pretty much writes off any street car inference?

edit 1... im trying to find a stock dyno grpah so we can look at how much low end (say 3k rpm) power my big cams actually cost me. a hunch tells me it will be in the 10-15rwkw range. and considering that by a std 1uz redline my cams havent even 'come on cam' yet (see bulge @ 6500rpm) thats not too bad compromise! certainly not some massive loss worth spilling milk over! and thats before considering road speed

edit2 ... just saw you mentioned you wanted to keep ratio/gears/tyres all the same for comparison... then yes, turbo will win. but, duh, of course it would!

ExileLakai

iTrader: (4)

Now I think you missed where I talked about the LSx. Yes it has 1.7 more liters, 3 less cams but can make damn near 400 whp with a cam, headers(mandatory for install), LS6 intake plenum, and a tune.

I was only posing the question to see how much more it was going to take money wise to squeeze 400 whp out of the 4.0 or 4.3 and if it was going to be really close within a few thousand, it would have been nice to keep the motor in the toyota family.

Plus its not like true NA conversation really comes to this board a lot. Its mostly FI threads. I wanted to pose a question that might get people talking and it did. I'm using the information and deciding the Chevy motor is still the best cost effective way to make a reliable 400hp.

Thanks for you input to the thread. Amazing engine and I'm sure it puts a smile on your face every time you hit the gas. If money was no object for me then I would be building the same.

JBrady

exactly my point

While possibly obvious to some probably not obvious to most. I think most will see two 400hp cars as equal when in this comparision they of course are not.

In the same thought most on this board are thinking street cars hence my focus on street rather than racing applications.

With regard to your point... not lost on me. Two cars of equal weight with identical constant velocity transmissions (CVT) of equal peak horsepower would perform equally presuming the CVTs were set at peak power (which they should be for best performance) Peak power of course develops the highest possible road torque for ANY given vehicle speed. IOW, if you alter the gearing of a vehicle to allow peak power for any given speed the net torque at the road will be the highest possible for the combination. In theory a CVT will allow just that.

RUSSOM

iTrader: (4)

I made 413 rwhp on a Mustang dyne, about 440 on a DJ, with my very stockish LS6 (same cube as LS1). Medium cam, headers and e- water pump. LS engines are great bang for the buck as long as you don't start swapping them and expecting the car to still have all of the creature comforts of a Lexus. I know I'm going to get slammed on this one, but if you want to make your Lexus as nice as one and then still be powered by an LS engine take that money and buy a new V.

Don't forget that a lot of the expense that comes along with FI comes up because you'll always find the next weak link. Make 400 whp and go trans shopping, or diff, or ???

tom steele

i agree the lsx is the most bang for the buck the parts and cams for our motors is just way overpriced because it a lexus as soon as i get the money i want to do this swap and i already have the rmm supercharger kit on my gs along with alot of other upgrades but i will nevr be able to get the horsepower numbers i am looking for out of the lexus motor not to mention the cost i can do lsx swap with a six speed T-56 for about half the cost of building my lexus motor!!! thats the route i have decided on what creature comforts are you talking about cruise control and auto trans?