lol...looks like...uh fun..and yes it is so i can do timing upgrades later...right now i just want my car reliable. on a side note...a fram? i was always under the impression they were bad filters? lol am i missing something? it just look out of place from the rest of your car...you haven't exactly tried to go the cheapest route lol

 

ok..if i did decide to control my timing...what are some good rules to follow for our cars? any idea about what it should be? or how i can figure it out without trial and error?
Thanks

 

Fram filter is a piece of crap, but it was just for the initial flush. It was a freshly rebuild engine that went into the car. Basically I ran some conventional oil and a el cheapo fram filter for a day or two. Then drain the oil to get rid of any contaminants or metal shavings. After that, replace with good filter and heavy weight conventional oil to break in engine.

Summary: No point to run an expensive filter if you're going to pack it full of crud and throw it away in a day or two.

As for timing, find someone else with a similar 2JZ setup to yours. And see if they will lend you their map. Copy and paste the map over and pull back timing a few degrees in the higher load regions where you are in boost. Then start logging, run the car on a dyno or a few runs down the street in a area safe to do so. Look for any knock events and pull timing in those regions that have knock. Or the other way around, if you ran the car and have not knock picked up anywhere...then you can start bumping up the timing a bit until knock shows up. Then back it down a little bit from that point and you should be good to go. Keep in mind, you can pick up a TON of power or lose a bunch of power depending on how well or poorly your ignition maps are tuned.

You also have to be careful if you retard timing to much, then you will cause high egt which is not good for the exhaust valves and turbo. On the other spectrum too much advance can blow your engine. It's a fine balancing act to get it perfect. The best is to have it just shy of maximium best timing. That way you get maximum power, but still have a little marigin of safety. Also, if you have a more sophisticated standalone...you can set it to pull back timing, reduce rpm, reduce boost, etc when it senses knock events.

 

jeeze jeff. thats enough to make most of us give up and cry.....seriously is there NETHING u cant do? what do u do for a living btw? besides work on your car....seriously what do u do?

 

While I agree with jeff and everyone else here about running standalone on your ride. I personally feel that if you have the capability to wire up and have enough knowledge to tune your car, than by all means go for it. I currently have a BNIB Haltech E6X with IAT, Coolant temp sensor, GM Map sensor, and flying leads ready to install into my supra but are having second thoughts about it since I might go Motec. The wiring part for any standalone is not difficult if you have a proper wiring diagram, but tunning is key to a reliable and stock driving car.

 

ok so i was looking through the software and i cam across something i didnt understand/couldnt figure out... it asks what the trigger setting is...any idea on what the trigger type/angle would be for our engines? (i can select variable for the angle)

 

Jeff...those are absolutely sick headlights! where did you get them? or how did you make them?? I LOVE THEM!!! lol

 

they are infiniti q46 retros and he made them check classifieds they pop up from time to time

 

ok...well i got my f10x in today (hopefully will be starting the timing and f10x on wed.) and it came with a air intake temp and coolant temp sensor. Ive been told all i need is the ait and map sensors...is the coolant temp sensor a necessity? what will i/will not be able to control/monitor with/without the coolant temp sens?
Thanks