that doesnt make any sence. the non vvti and the vvti both mount up the same. the only differance u need to worry about is the oil pan which you take off your old motor, the wiring harness is different, and if you go aem that controles the whole engine and trans so i cant see any major problems in this.

 

i was just told the EMS doesnt control the trans in a diff thread...anyways...if i were to do a swap today with a vvti motor..what all would i need? (going from na-t) the engine, trans, ecu and harness, engine mounts, single turbo manifold...what else?
Thanks

 

meth is bad for you, stop doing drugs people. j/j

 

that alone, is the nightmare.

you will need a standalone to control a non-vvti gte in a 98+ gs/sc300, or mate the 2 ecu's together.

 

That's a good method to go by if you don't feel like having a tach, speedometer, fuel level gauge, warning lights, etc... etc...I'm not sure who told you that you can just throw a GTE ecu based from a different car in and everything would be fine but they need to check their facts. You will lose almost all functions of the car outside of the motor physically running (just pick up a service manual and look at all the body control functions the factory ecu controls). If you are doing a non-vvti swap you need to wire the car for both ecu's, the harness for the non-vvti is COMPLETELY different from the factory ecu OR the Vvti GTE ecu.

Secondly, have you ever compared the dyno graph of a Vvti GTE to a non-Vvti Gte? Vvti Gte's have up to 30hp more on the bottom end compared to a non-vvti motor, bone stock. The advantage to a non-vvti USED to be the issue of cams because you couldn't find any Vvti-Gte cams outside of the HKS VALCON setup which had to be imported and was $1500. Things have progressed since then and you can pick up whatever combination of cams you want for $600 that drop in the Vvti-Gte so the cam advantage is a mute point. Not to mention the hours of wiring it will save you and the resulting much cleaner install.


Make sure you get the MAF for the Gte Vvti with the swap, it's different than your stock Maf. Ignitor would be nice though that is the same as the factory ignitor, never hurts to have a spare however.

Your going to have to either mix and match or have a custom drive shaft made, the output shaft from the Vvti tranny is different than the Gs's as well as the shift linkage so you need that with the swap.

You will have to install a return fuel system so you will need at minimum enough fuel line to go from the tank to the rail as well as the appropriate fittings etc....might as well do a pump while your in there as well as swap out the tiny JDM injectors (440cc) for some Usdm injectors (550cc) in case you feel like making some power. You will also need to purchase a resistor pack to match impedance or just make your own which is easy.

Your tach isn't going to work so you need to do a little bit of wiring to get the tach functioning.

If your worried about emissions your OBD ports aren't going to work so you will not be able to pass emissions via a scan. That may or may not be an issue for you.

If your staying stock twins make sure there aren't any broken sensors on the turbos (though it's almost inevitable there will be as the motor is shipped, most can be found used on Supraforums, I even have a few laying around)

You will need to do some shifting of battery cables, power steering res. etc..as the battery is on the opposite side of jdm cars.

Mounts are slightly different, the swap I purchased came with mounts so I had them side by side to compare, the Gte mounts were a little bit different then the GS mounts so I ended up using a combination of both to get the motor sitting perfect. I *think* you could mix and match with 98+ supra mounts as well.

The throttle cable doesn't reach anymore so you will need to pick up a throttle cable, I can't remember which one I used, I don't *think* it was a Supra cable,for some reason I want to say it was a cable out of a truck or corolla or something but it's been so long I honestly can't recall.

Thats about all off the top of my head at the moment.

 

^ are you saying that the gte MAF is a completely separate part # from the ge MAF? is it calibrated differently for reading boost?

the gte maf looks a lot like 98-00 ge maf.

 

I can't comment on the way it's calibrated but I know for 100% positive that it is a different part number. I had a 98 Gs and compared all the electronics.

The ignitor was the same exact part number but the Maf, while physically looking the same, was indeed a different part number from the one that came with my swap. I have noticed alot of the swaps don't come with the MAF, I have never tried running the motor on the stock MAF so I don't know if it would work or not. I would be inclined to think there is a reason they are different part numbers however and Toyota wouldn't spend money on using a different part number if there weren't differences.

 

^ interesting, maybe that's something i should look into. gte ecu w/ ge maf, ge ecu w/ piggyback and gte maf, and ge ecu w/ ge maf all on vvti gte engine.

when i was na-t i borrowed my friend's '06 wrx sti's maf for a day or two and it worked flawlessly w/ my ge ecu. the MAF even had the same denso part #

 

im running a non vvti GTE in my car one ECU and everything works except my temp gauge.

The vvti is a better choice for the basic DIY guy. Its a better match, and better technology.

 

I re-read my post and I came across sounding like it was impossible to do that. I didn't necessarily mean to say it's impossible but it is hardly a trivial endeavor to get everything working of one ecu properly. Even if you know what your doing it would not just be a 5 minute job to wire it up and honestly I wouldn't even go through that headache if it were me and that was my only option for a swap.

Just on a side note, why couldn't you get your temp gauge to work? Should just be a simple exercise in impedance matching right? I don't mean to tell you, I'm posing the question that it should easily be fixed with relatively simple circuit shouldn't it?

 

Hard to explain, i may need a new thread.

Think of it this way the car is digital it has it own network of ECUs to make all the car functions work.

The engine ECU takes care of the engine and talks to a few items in the car.

The newer engine that are vvti are digital and can communicate fine with the car ecu's the older (non vvti) engines are analog and don't use the same type of signals.

 

No that's cool, I understand whats going on and that was my original thoughts on the matter. I figured since you mentioned you got it all working somehow maybe the temp was just overlooked or something.

 

Intreresting. Could you replace the sensor with a newer digital one?

 

To add to the GTE conversion conversation,

The whole reason I purchased the GS300 is because I previously owned a 1994 Supra TT converted to a Greddy Single turbo. I wanted another Supra but didn't want to purchase an older aging $20,000-25,000 car. Then I came across the imported JDM GTE's available on online and realizing the pricing was extremely fair considering the aftermarket pricing and performance and reliability the GTE's are known for I started looking at used IS300's in my area until I ran across a nice 02 5 speed for a good price. I went down to the Lexus dealership to take a look and most likely purchase the car until I saw my GS300 there and with a similar price and once I drove it I was hooked! The only downside IMO is that it's about 200lbs heavier and you cannot get them in manual(although this could be a blessing since the IS 5spd isn't capable of handling much over 450-500hp reliably from what I hear and I can easily build a TT auto to handle 9's for around $2,000).

And my reasoning for going NA-T? If you have ever removed the stock twins from a GTE installed in a car you will know why I want my GTE to be single from the get go.

While on the subject of GTE conversions, how many have purchased a GTE and successfully dropped them strait in? I have read a few horror stories of GTE's coming with missing internal parts and or extremely worn parts.

 

the gauge gets its signal from the digital ECU.