beez43

iTrader: (6)

well i think if you disconnect all of the o2 sensors, it goes into open loop mode where your ecu will try to run off some preset variables and will be smooth... maybe if you try that, let me know how the results go.. i know gsoup did the same and things were going great for him.. post up your results!!

ChrisT88

Well I did the conversion this weekend and things went OK. I just got the exhaust welded today and I am going to install the electronic boost controller tonight so hopefully I can get this tuned out.

I went ahead and disconnected all 4 O2 sensors but it still seems to be adjusting the tune. I wonder if I need to remove the resistors on the ECU that I put on for the AEM FIC?

An even bigger concern so far is that I have to press my throttle about half way before it seems to affect anything? It was fine before the turbo install/removal of the last 3 O2 sensors. I tried recalibrating the AEM FIC TPS with no luck.

Also, what resistor are people using for open loop and where is the sensor I need to put it on? or whats the ECU pinout #'s?

Thanks guys. I feel like I'm getting close but this throttle problem has me really concerned, hope I didn't break the TPS sensor or something when installing the turbo.

beez43

iTrader: (6)

maybe the maf.. did you set value to 9 or 12? 9 was too small for me and my car still hesitated so i bumped it up to 11...

ChrisT88

Fixed the throttle issue. Turned out my TPS sensor didn't click all the way in and was giving false readings.

I also plugged a hole on my turbo inlet side which really helped the tune. I think it was sucking air after the mass air sensor causing it to run terribly.


The tuning now is a lot easier, I'm just worried that the 10k resistors in the O2 tap lines for the AEM FIC may be causing a slight tuning issue. Either way open loop is the way to go! still very drivable and holds the tune 100% better. Closer to my old single turbo Supra with HKS VPC & GCC.





Last problem I'm having seems to be boost loss. I'm only getting about 2-4lbs(and I can hear the wastegate dumping a **** load of air) with the 50mm XS wastegate running off the spring (I believe it's a 12lb spring although they do have a 9lb version). I've tried running a vacuum line from the turbo housing to #2 on the wastegate with no luck and yes I have the #1 hole plugged with a short bolt. My only guess is a clogged cat?

ChrisT88

So anybody had a clogged cat issue with the GS300 or broken XS power wastegate? I've tried everything, checked all couplers. No boost.

fordsvtmfl

iTrader: (13)

your cats should be gone...right? they are in the manifold..so if your using the xs power...you shouldn't have any......you sure your intercooler piping is good? ive blown 4 couplers already! lol just my lack of doing right the first time......
but anyways..my car is running like new..zero problems and im using my o2's and maf to run the car under normal driving..i still need to hook up my o2 sim...oh and when i was working on my car..my abs vsc and vsc off lights came on...i was told by several mechanics (that i trust) that it was just because the wheels turned at diff speed when jacked up and i started it..and that the codes needed to be cleared...well we tried to clear them and they wont clear!! any ideas? they dont know why they wont clear...my CEL cleared fine..and the scan tool recognizes the other codes...but when it says its cleared them..they are still there..and i have reset my ecu since then....

Deception

iTrader: (1)

do you see the turbine spinning?? bad intercooler. try disconnecting coupler afte rthe intercooler and see if air blows thru

ChrisT88

I thought there were two more cats past merge into a single exhaust where it goes back into duals but maybe those are resonators.

Maybe it is the intercooler but when I finished to piping during the install we used a vacuum to check the piping and it didn't seem to have to any leaks but I will go back and check everything again.

I also think long term I'm going to need to wrap my turbo hot side or purchase a turbo blanket because my throttle body piping is getting extremely hot and the coupler has started to melt.


Thanks for the help guys, my only other choice is to throw money that I really don't have at it

Deception

iTrader: (1)

im stumped on the cam/crank wiring. everything is wired in, the car starts but wont rev pass 3k rpm. and im getting a check engine light for p0100 and vsc and vsv light on.

are you suppose to add resistors to the cam/crank sensor. i found a post from aem power fourms that a scion had the same problem. what he did was tap the wire for cam(not intercept)and add 2k ohm resistors.

beez43

iTrader: (6)

nonono.. look at the pdf file on clubna-t...
http://forum.clubna-t.com/showthread.php?t=5140

elitistk posted up some pdf files and if you look into them, they have the configuration for the crank joiints...

Deception

iTrader: (1)

where do i add the resistors

beez43

iTrader: (6)

they are meant for the o2 sensor wires...

beez43

iTrader: (6)

i really wonder if we need to wire all 4 sensors.. what if we just hook up 2 of the sensors and put bung plugs for the other 2 and not splice at all? has anyone done this? i just thought of this now and it raises the question of whether we really need to use all 4 o2 sensors and not just 2 of them...

beez43

iTrader: (6)

nevermind.. im an idiot.. i forgot that the ecu requires input from all 4 sensors.. i wonder if there is a way to take 2 of those inputs out? can we just splice them all together? 2 sensors at a time?

Deception

iTrader: (1)

but fort some reason that i cant rev pass 3k rpm. and vsc and vsv light is on.