Top 10 1/4 Mile Times GS300/GS400/GS430
#121
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I would like to see it, his car is pulling off the line like a V8... My buddy had a really fast C4 that ran 12.0 @ 117 MPH with a 100 shot, that car would pull BPU Supras all day long, for his GS300 to pull 11.77 @ 120 seems like a hell of a launch, maybe it's the stall setup but I still think there was some spray involved. I would like to see his 60 foot time too.
Anyway, tomorrow is the day, I'm going to the track on kill mode, no more excuses. I just spent $110 on filling up my car with race gas, spent this morning reinstalling my wastegate / boost controller as it wasn't installed correctly, I only had the side port of the wastegate hooked up, so I reconfigured it per Greddys instructions. I have some dyno time set up at Titan tomorrow, then I will be heading straight to the track to take down the #1 time.
Anyway, tomorrow is the day, I'm going to the track on kill mode, no more excuses. I just spent $110 on filling up my car with race gas, spent this morning reinstalling my wastegate / boost controller as it wasn't installed correctly, I only had the side port of the wastegate hooked up, so I reconfigured it per Greddys instructions. I have some dyno time set up at Titan tomorrow, then I will be heading straight to the track to take down the #1 time.
I have a set of big twins sitting in the garage that I have zero motivation to install. I also have a dual pump hanger that has made a very nice paper weight for my desk for the last year. I ended up spending my fuel system money supercharging my 4Runner.
Ben
#122
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Well I'm back from Titan! Darin informed me that my boost controller was off by 3psi! Turns out I was only running 14psi this entire time I thought I was running 17-18psi. The Haltech pressure sensor shows the base boost at 14PSI however the Greddy boost controller was indicating higher, I was told the Greddy controllers are known to be incorrect.
I made 470 RWHP at 14 psi and 631 RWHP at 25 PSI at 82 degrees and 27% humidity. Darin told me my numbers were spot on for a standard 74mm turbo. We also got the idle air control motor to work as well and the driveability is a bit better. I'm going to get him to set up my anti lag 2 step, he was telling me once thats hooked up I should be able to launch about 15psi on my drag radials and cut some 1.6 60 foot's. I need to get the speed sensor hooked up before doing that though. I'll probably hit the track tonight and Friday, I bet I'll be kicked off after the 1st run though. On the below run the boost controller was surging, it was corrected on the next pass with a little gain adjustment, you can see the wavy graph shows the boost surge.
I made 470 RWHP at 14 psi and 631 RWHP at 25 PSI at 82 degrees and 27% humidity. Darin told me my numbers were spot on for a standard 74mm turbo. We also got the idle air control motor to work as well and the driveability is a bit better. I'm going to get him to set up my anti lag 2 step, he was telling me once thats hooked up I should be able to launch about 15psi on my drag radials and cut some 1.6 60 foot's. I need to get the speed sensor hooked up before doing that though. I'll probably hit the track tonight and Friday, I bet I'll be kicked off after the 1st run though. On the below run the boost controller was surging, it was corrected on the next pass with a little gain adjustment, you can see the wavy graph shows the boost surge.
#123
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I would venture to say that the high MPH was due more to wheel spin. The more wheel spin you get the faster the MPH and the slower the ET will be. I did not look for the time slip for the 11.77 run but i would venture to guess the 60' was in the 2.0-2.2 range. With at 1.8 60' that same setup would go ~11.65@117-118.
Ben
Ben
#124
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I got higher MPH from wheel spin, when I was running my crappy 285 street tires I was running 117MPH consistent, now the highest I've trapped on the same 14psi of boost with the 305 drag radials was 115 MPH.
Do you have the timeslip to post up?
Do you have the timeslip to post up?
Last edited by adamgamz; 04-21-10 at 01:05 PM.
#125
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Your MPH wasnt higher cause of wheel spin it was capable of 117 and ran 117. When u run the 305's its now capable of 115 thats it. if a car gets full traction all day long and runs 125 mph all day long then u spin off the line it will not do better than a 125 unless a change of some sort ambient temp, tuning, boost level, launch on converter stall, etc.
#126
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In the end it really doesn't matter what boost you were running, what size turbo, or if you were using a 2nd power adder. Run what you brung is what I say. The bottom line is your car launched good and you ran a good time / MPH, you have the video to prove it so props for that. I'm going to wait until Friday to run the Lexus, then in a few weeks I'll be back out with the anti lag hooked up.
#127
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In the end it really doesn't matter what boost you were running, what size turbo, or if you were using a 2nd power adder. Run what you brung is what I say. The bottom line is your car launched good and you ran a good time / MPH, you have the video to prove it so props for that. I'm going to wait until Friday to run the Lexus, then in a few weeks I'll be back out with the anti lag hooked up.
#128
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I don't know, I've been going to the track since 1993 when I was 22 years old, I've seen many many runs and if someone doesn't come out of the hole very good and spins they tend to run slower E.T. but higher speeds. Your run looks to me that you came out of the hole good and you had a decent MPH.
#129
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Ben
#130
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#131
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Well I ran a best time of 12.2 @ 116 now but was again having clutch problems, slipping down the track again. I think I screwed up trying to do a burnout with no line lock on the car and screwed my clutch. I'll post up the timeslip later, moved up the list to #3 now.
#132
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Nice! from the numbers it looks like a pretty good run ex. clutch. Vids?
#133
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Here are my best 2 timeslips, one from the best time in my old Viper and the other is the GS300. My number is 9119.
The track was pretty crazy, I got there early and ran 3 times with no cool down in between runs, there was nobody there so they were just waving us through on our return for another pass, that was a mistake as on the 1st pass I really heated up my clutch trying to do a burnout with no line lock and the clutch was slipping going down the track, the next two passes I didn't do a burnout at all and both passes were in the 12's but the boost wasn't coming up, when it did it was surging badly, this Greddy boost controller is a real PITA. The gain is supposed to help for boost spike but it not set right as I'm getting a surge in my boost constantly. I'm going to play with it today on the street. When I returned from my 3 hot passes, (the 3rd one was also my best time, best MPH was on the 2nd pass at 118.5) my car wouldn't go into gear at all while running, I had to shut the car down and put it in 3rd then drive it home that way.
Yesterday morning I looked at the slave, it was getting travel so I figured it was ok, I put a pry bar against the movement alteration kit and couldn't get it to push any further however I would find out later that was due to the pressure plate being so heavy. I puleld the tranny and expected to find a welded clutch that wasn't releasing however that wasn't the case, there was a bunch of material that I blew out with my air hose but aside from some hot marks the clutch looked ok. I put everything back together and looked at the slave / clutch pedal again. We measured the slave cylinder and were only getting 1/4" of travel, when I had the tranny out on the tranny jack I was able to place the movement alteration kit in full relase position as there was no longer a pressure plate to push against, to get full travel I needed 3/4" travel, and I was only getting 1/4 ". It turns out the pedal was adjusted way too short, after fighting with the pedal we got the adjustment correct and now it travels nearly all the way. What had happened was my pedal was engaging on the floor before, after the burn outs I had worn away enough material where it would no longer disengage at all, now that the pedal is right the car is back up and running, I boosted it in 3rd yesterday and no slipping so I think the clutch is ok. No more burnouts for me until I get my line lock on. Does anyone have one installed to give me an idea of what brake line to tie into?
The track was pretty crazy, I got there early and ran 3 times with no cool down in between runs, there was nobody there so they were just waving us through on our return for another pass, that was a mistake as on the 1st pass I really heated up my clutch trying to do a burnout with no line lock and the clutch was slipping going down the track, the next two passes I didn't do a burnout at all and both passes were in the 12's but the boost wasn't coming up, when it did it was surging badly, this Greddy boost controller is a real PITA. The gain is supposed to help for boost spike but it not set right as I'm getting a surge in my boost constantly. I'm going to play with it today on the street. When I returned from my 3 hot passes, (the 3rd one was also my best time, best MPH was on the 2nd pass at 118.5) my car wouldn't go into gear at all while running, I had to shut the car down and put it in 3rd then drive it home that way.
Yesterday morning I looked at the slave, it was getting travel so I figured it was ok, I put a pry bar against the movement alteration kit and couldn't get it to push any further however I would find out later that was due to the pressure plate being so heavy. I puleld the tranny and expected to find a welded clutch that wasn't releasing however that wasn't the case, there was a bunch of material that I blew out with my air hose but aside from some hot marks the clutch looked ok. I put everything back together and looked at the slave / clutch pedal again. We measured the slave cylinder and were only getting 1/4" of travel, when I had the tranny out on the tranny jack I was able to place the movement alteration kit in full relase position as there was no longer a pressure plate to push against, to get full travel I needed 3/4" travel, and I was only getting 1/4 ". It turns out the pedal was adjusted way too short, after fighting with the pedal we got the adjustment correct and now it travels nearly all the way. What had happened was my pedal was engaging on the floor before, after the burn outs I had worn away enough material where it would no longer disengage at all, now that the pedal is right the car is back up and running, I boosted it in 3rd yesterday and no slipping so I think the clutch is ok. No more burnouts for me until I get my line lock on. Does anyone have one installed to give me an idea of what brake line to tie into?
Last edited by adamgamz; 04-25-10 at 08:05 AM.
#134
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