nah dude, look at it this way: do you have to do more work to drink something through a 5" straw or a 50" straw? if the intake's design didn't have that sort of extra length in mind (like by having a smaller diameter pipe, or smoothing out the bends, etc.) then the intake air velocity is reduced and total airflow going into the engine is negatively affected, screwing up the air-fuel ratio and reducing performance. it's not quite a ram air setup either, because there's no air pressure or intake velocity like if you had a scoop.

so, you could make a narrower diameter intake pipe and possibly a smaller filter, but i say just go back to the way the intake was supposed to work, and just reduce the air temperature by running a scoop/duct up to the filter like tresvatos did. also, i noticed that you got it dyno'ed, didn't the mech point this out or did he not know you modified the intake?

 

He didn't mention that it would negatively impact the car's performance. He just mentioned that the CEL is definitely having to do with that particular setup and to take it off...so I did just that. What you metioned does make sense but then how does setups that come with the piping extended down into the wheel well make more power? Apexi and AEM make these tru cold air intake setups (not for our cars though).

 

yeah there are systems like that out there; i had two intakes on my previous car, one was an AEM SRI and the other was an injen cold-air that placed the filter exactly where yours is, right by the right-foglight with no CEL or anything. the whole reason tho that we shell out cash for pipes like that is cuz those companies research what kind of airflow goes through the length of the pipe and adjust the pipe diameter accordingly. my injen's pipe diameter was about an inch or so smaller than the AEM, but produced way more gains because of the colder temps. only reason i took it out is because i didn't want to risk hydrolocking my motor, since my car was lowered at the time and the bottom half would get soaked everytime i'd drive through a big puddle.

so if you had a narrower intake pipe then it would probably work. i don't know if it's worth the trouble though in trying to figure out what diameter intake pipe you'd need though, and i wouldn't risk hydrolock on a motor for an additional 2-3HP over an SRI (not anymore at least, haha).

 

here's a pic of my ghetto rigged dryer duct... i thought that the aluminum wouldn't fit too well so i used a vinyl duct instead costing about $5. the duct has a 4" diameter, and interestingly enough there's a gap between the headlight and the area where the filter sits, and the ducting squeezed through perfectly which was kinda surprising, i expected to have to cut something. might want to spraypaint it black so it doesn't look so noticeable tho, haha.

 

here's where it ends up, about 2-3" away from the filter. would be a cheap way to ensure that you're getting cold air for anyone who has a short ram intake.

 

Good work on getting cool air to the filter! That's enginuity!!!

I will get some pics of my set-up on here as soon as I get the box complete.

Waiting on Aircraft Mech friend of mine to finish with the top section of my cool air box and it should be done.

Right now thinking of ways to insulate heat to the box & noise from the box..

Thanx for adding your info everyone!!!

 

In trying to make the intake air as cool as possible, I am curious now
if a heat shield sleeve around the intake tube would be a wise
addition to the intake set-up.

Does any one have an opinion if this would help or just be more for
looks than anything else???

Thnx for the input

 

This is the Cold Air Box Now with the New Aluminum Top...Debating on covering the entire box in Carbon Fiber to give it a more sleek look.

The Box has a " Ram Air " Scoop that leads to it from the front air dam near the fog light.

 

This is a pic. of the Ram Air Scoop for the Cool Air Box although it is very hard to see.

It has an elbow bend that leads directly to the box that K&N is housed in via a hole cut behind pass headlight.

I place an air compressor nozle about a meter out from the scoop to test the intake/velocity into the box, and it was a pretty rapid flow of air.

Please give me any opinions you may have!!

 

looks pretty slick. i searched and someone mentioned that their air duct resulted in a CEL, and sure enough it happened to me, haha. so i now removed my ducting, guess it was too much flow for the MAF to handle, bahhh.

 

How do you know if you have a CEL warning?? Thanx

 

CEL = Check Engine Lamp

MIL = Malfunction Indicator Lamp

Not all Lexus pics below but you get the idea.

 

Got it! Check Engine Light=CEL

Just realized that after I pust up the post!

My ERROR

 

No video's, but i will tell you that It is MUCH louder on throttle than your factory air intake.

Let me know what you decide to do with your intake.

Greg

 

But did you beleive that the aftermarket did provide noticeable H.P./acceleration gains over the stock?