VSC and VSC Off Lights - Limp Mode
02-22-12, 06:46 PM
#169
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Removed my VSC ecu from my 2002 GS and put it on her 98 GS. Same thing no acceleration until you floor it. VSC/ VSC OFF ENGINE LIGHT came on. If I put my ECU in her car, can I start her car with my key. Just trying to troubleshoot her ECU.
02-23-12, 09:52 AM
#170
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
I dont think it will start, each key has an RF chip in it.
As for exchanging the ABS/VSC module, why did you do that before looking at the sensors on the TB? I know Taunville was going to try that, but thats because he already swapped the entire TB and didnt fix the problem.
As for exchanging the ABS/VSC module, why did you do that before looking at the sensors on the TB? I know Taunville was going to try that, but thats because he already swapped the entire TB and didnt fix the problem.
02-27-12, 12:06 PM
#171
If anyone is interested,
If you send me a USB or a SD card, I can give you a copy of the Lexus gs300 repair manual. But you have to include a return stamp or prepaid return package. If you send a SD card through a regular mail envelope, wrap the SD card with white paper to make it look like a legit mail and make sure you get a tracking number. Must he 2gig in memory. It covers every single detail about the car. I dont feel like posting pdf anymore. This is not a scam, i just want to help others, to help themselves, so they can help me. If you are interested PM me.
If you send me a USB or a SD card, I can give you a copy of the Lexus gs300 repair manual. But you have to include a return stamp or prepaid return package. If you send a SD card through a regular mail envelope, wrap the SD card with white paper to make it look like a legit mail and make sure you get a tracking number. Must he 2gig in memory. It covers every single detail about the car. I dont feel like posting pdf anymore. This is not a scam, i just want to help others, to help themselves, so they can help me. If you are interested PM me.
Last edited by Tuanville; 02-27-12 at 12:12 PM.
02-27-12, 01:03 PM
#172
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Nasty little devil of a problem, yeah? I saw above az-dave said "we've figured this bastard out". I hope that is the case for my 2000 GS300.
That throttle lever assembly (a mechanical system) apparently negates all the OBDII diagnostics.
From the Lexus manuals the only diagnosis was the OBDII codes. Those first pointed me to the TPS, which I replaced (and thanks to previous posts about this). It was code 1120 and 1121.
After I cleared the codes with my OBDII meter the engine ran fine for about 60 miles, then the same problem, so I replaced the TPS.
Ran fine for about 300 miles, then bang, yesterday same dash indicators, same limp mode, but the OBDII code was P1128, Throttle Control Motor Lock. So I clear the code, get the ohmmeter and check the resistance on the Throttle Control Motor. Both readings within specs. I checked the Ohm readings for the new TPS, good also.
Now I'm waiting for the same problem, and I guess I should be looking at that mechanical throttle lever assy before I replace the throttle control motor.
I have a question. Should I have tested BEFORE I cleared out the codes??? I was thinking it shouldn't matter, so I cleared the code. Any thoughts?
02-27-12, 04:08 PM
#173
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
to VVT3188: The Throttle Assembly is not really mechanical. Its 95% electronic.
When the throttle cable pulls, it then turns the lever assembly on the back side of the TB. When that turns its simply turning a sensor built into that lever assembly. The ONLY time the throttle is mechanically engaged is literally the final 5% (if that) when you floor the pedal and thats is a safe guard to be able to limp the car home at 10 mph.
Other than that, the rest of the system is electronic and OBDII-driven.
If your having the limp-mode issue, and its intermittent, suspect the Lever Assembly sensor, or the throttle motor. Ive learned the TPS almost never goes bad, even though its the FIRST thing all the Lexus dealers want to replace.
Hope this clarifies a little on the mechanical attributes of the system. The throttle motor mechanically engages the throttle valve which turns the TPS, but its all OBDII monitored, and its how the correct A/F ratio is managed.
When the throttle cable pulls, it then turns the lever assembly on the back side of the TB. When that turns its simply turning a sensor built into that lever assembly. The ONLY time the throttle is mechanically engaged is literally the final 5% (if that) when you floor the pedal and thats is a safe guard to be able to limp the car home at 10 mph.
Other than that, the rest of the system is electronic and OBDII-driven.
If your having the limp-mode issue, and its intermittent, suspect the Lever Assembly sensor, or the throttle motor. Ive learned the TPS almost never goes bad, even though its the FIRST thing all the Lexus dealers want to replace.
Hope this clarifies a little on the mechanical attributes of the system. The throttle motor mechanically engages the throttle valve which turns the TPS, but its all OBDII monitored, and its how the correct A/F ratio is managed.
I do, two volume set for $90 on E-bay. The actual Lexus manuals. Nice to have for relatively cheap. Helped me through the strut replacements, brake linings, AND (somewhat) THIS CURRENT PROBLEM that is the topic of this thread. (Somewhat) being the actual steps to replace items like the TPS and the Throttle Control Motor. The actual DIAGNOSIS info has been coming from this thread.
Nasty little devil of a problem, yeah? I saw above az-dave said "we've figured this bastard out". I hope that is the case for my 2000 GS300.
That throttle lever assembly (a mechanical system) apparently negates all the OBDII diagnostics.
From the Lexus manuals the only diagnosis was the OBDII codes. Those first pointed me to the TPS, which I replaced (and thanks to previous posts about this). It was code 1120 and 1121.
After I cleared the codes with my OBDII meter the engine ran fine for about 60 miles, then the same problem, so I replaced the TPS.
Ran fine for about 300 miles, then bang, yesterday same dash indicators, same limp mode, but the OBDII code was P1128, Throttle Control Motor Lock. So I clear the code, get the ohmmeter and check the resistance on the Throttle Control Motor. Both readings within specs. I checked the Ohm readings for the new TPS, good also.
Now I'm waiting for the same problem, and I guess I should be looking at that mechanical throttle lever assy before I replace the throttle control motor.
I have a question. Should I have tested BEFORE I cleared out the codes??? I was thinking it shouldn't matter, so I cleared the code. Any thoughts?
Nasty little devil of a problem, yeah? I saw above az-dave said "we've figured this bastard out". I hope that is the case for my 2000 GS300.
That throttle lever assembly (a mechanical system) apparently negates all the OBDII diagnostics.
From the Lexus manuals the only diagnosis was the OBDII codes. Those first pointed me to the TPS, which I replaced (and thanks to previous posts about this). It was code 1120 and 1121.
After I cleared the codes with my OBDII meter the engine ran fine for about 60 miles, then the same problem, so I replaced the TPS.
Ran fine for about 300 miles, then bang, yesterday same dash indicators, same limp mode, but the OBDII code was P1128, Throttle Control Motor Lock. So I clear the code, get the ohmmeter and check the resistance on the Throttle Control Motor. Both readings within specs. I checked the Ohm readings for the new TPS, good also.
Now I'm waiting for the same problem, and I guess I should be looking at that mechanical throttle lever assy before I replace the throttle control motor.
I have a question. Should I have tested BEFORE I cleared out the codes??? I was thinking it shouldn't matter, so I cleared the code. Any thoughts?
02-27-12, 04:27 PM
#174
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
To All: Id also like to emphasize that I Used to take my GS to the dealers. In fact, I took mine to 3 different dealers in the Phoenix area over the years. I was severely disappointed each time. In each and every case, Lexus charged me to "Diagnose" the problem, but could never once guarantee their proposed repair would fix the problem. The problems were:
1) Brake Failure. Literally brakes went out at 120K. Prior to brakes failing a loud noise eminated from behind the dash and the BRAKE, ABS and VCS lights would come on then go off after a while. This happened for a month. I took to 2 dealers. They supposedly checked everything, couldnt find the problem...replaced get this, the Battery terminal (that alone was $100 with labor). At end of day they could not determine cause of noise and lights because it was intermittent and they suggested I replace the ECU, and if that dint work to replace the Master Cylinder and ABS Unit.
I didnt feel this was remotely acceptable and found this forum, did some research and discovered the Compressed Nitrogen brake booseter was leaking, causing the intermittent problem, I replaced the Master cylinder+Brake booster assembly, kept my ABS module and ECU and have been problem free for 132K more miles
2) Limp Mode. Again after frustration I took her to a DIFFERENT dealer. They did the scan and suggested the TPS. Which I did. $150 later problem comes back, and Im stranded in 120+ heat in limp mode...20 miles from home. Take back to Dealer, they say they can only replace the entire Throttle Body. I ask if they guarantee it will fix problem, they say they cannot. I say "screw it", and I diagnose the problem myself along with the help of a much smaller "Limp Mode" section back then. I buy a used TB from Greenleaf online, use the Motor off it, and have been problem free for years.
3) Air Conditioning failure. Again after some frustration I take to a dealer and explain AC is cutting in and out. They supposedly est it and tell me the AC compressor is shot. I get a quote, laugh at it, and taker her home. After some digging around I learn there is a control module for the AC, Fan and vents behind the radio in the dash. Replace it, and have been problem free for year...wow...My AC Compressor wasnt bad after all.
4) VVTi problem, and finally last year I almost threw in the towel, and took her again due to a rough idle I could not pin point. After again trying to be ripped off with an entire Upper-end head repair, I discover my rough idle is a $25 solenoid. Of course they wont fix it...its simply not enough for the dealer to care about, so try again to rip the person off.
The reason I mention this is that Ive had it up to my ears with supposed Professionals trying to rip me off cuz I own a lexus. Its criminal. And the repair books, which I have somewhere, doesnt really help with certain problems...its good old common sense and elimination of sources by way of understanding how each system works. Which is why this entire forum is so awesome.
Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to make sure people know the dealers are not always correct or looking out for your best interest...unfortunately.
(PS, I wrote Lexus Corporate after the Brake Issue...was refunded money, and given coupon for free spark plug change...which I never used)
1) Brake Failure. Literally brakes went out at 120K. Prior to brakes failing a loud noise eminated from behind the dash and the BRAKE, ABS and VCS lights would come on then go off after a while. This happened for a month. I took to 2 dealers. They supposedly checked everything, couldnt find the problem...replaced get this, the Battery terminal (that alone was $100 with labor). At end of day they could not determine cause of noise and lights because it was intermittent and they suggested I replace the ECU, and if that dint work to replace the Master Cylinder and ABS Unit.
I didnt feel this was remotely acceptable and found this forum, did some research and discovered the Compressed Nitrogen brake booseter was leaking, causing the intermittent problem, I replaced the Master cylinder+Brake booster assembly, kept my ABS module and ECU and have been problem free for 132K more miles
2) Limp Mode. Again after frustration I took her to a DIFFERENT dealer. They did the scan and suggested the TPS. Which I did. $150 later problem comes back, and Im stranded in 120+ heat in limp mode...20 miles from home. Take back to Dealer, they say they can only replace the entire Throttle Body. I ask if they guarantee it will fix problem, they say they cannot. I say "screw it", and I diagnose the problem myself along with the help of a much smaller "Limp Mode" section back then. I buy a used TB from Greenleaf online, use the Motor off it, and have been problem free for years.
3) Air Conditioning failure. Again after some frustration I take to a dealer and explain AC is cutting in and out. They supposedly est it and tell me the AC compressor is shot. I get a quote, laugh at it, and taker her home. After some digging around I learn there is a control module for the AC, Fan and vents behind the radio in the dash. Replace it, and have been problem free for year...wow...My AC Compressor wasnt bad after all.
4) VVTi problem, and finally last year I almost threw in the towel, and took her again due to a rough idle I could not pin point. After again trying to be ripped off with an entire Upper-end head repair, I discover my rough idle is a $25 solenoid. Of course they wont fix it...its simply not enough for the dealer to care about, so try again to rip the person off.
The reason I mention this is that Ive had it up to my ears with supposed Professionals trying to rip me off cuz I own a lexus. Its criminal. And the repair books, which I have somewhere, doesnt really help with certain problems...its good old common sense and elimination of sources by way of understanding how each system works. Which is why this entire forum is so awesome.
Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to make sure people know the dealers are not always correct or looking out for your best interest...unfortunately.
(PS, I wrote Lexus Corporate after the Brake Issue...was refunded money, and given coupon for free spark plug change...which I never used)
Last edited by az-dave; 02-27-12 at 04:30 PM.
02-27-12, 04:29 PM
#175
I envy those who had replaced the lever assembly and had their problem solved haha. We're stuck with something far more complicated than just some sensors or motor.... If you look in your manual in the vsc system section. It'll say that there is a fail safe mode that the vsc go in when there is a short in the system. It shows you the wiring diagram also. I can't wait until I get back to California and diagnose the car a little more further...
Az-Dave is throttle body guru! Haha
Az-Dave is throttle body guru! Haha
I do, two volume set for $90 on E-bay. The actual Lexus manuals. Nice to have for relatively cheap. Helped me through the strut replacements, brake linings, AND (somewhat) THIS CURRENT PROBLEM that is the topic of this thread. (Somewhat) being the actual steps to replace items like the TPS and the Throttle Control Motor. The actual DIAGNOSIS info has been coming from this thread.
Nasty little devil of a problem, yeah? I saw above az-dave said "we've figured this bastard out". I hope that is the case for my 2000 GS300.
That throttle lever assembly (a mechanical system) apparently negates all the OBDII diagnostics.
From the Lexus manuals the only diagnosis was the OBDII codes. Those first pointed me to the TPS, which I replaced (and thanks to previous posts about this). It was code 1120 and 1121.
After I cleared the codes with my OBDII meter the engine ran fine for about 60 miles, then the same problem, so I replaced the TPS.
Ran fine for about 300 miles, then bang, yesterday same dash indicators, same limp mode, but the OBDII code was P1128, Throttle Control Motor Lock. So I clear the code, get the ohmmeter and check the resistance on the Throttle Control Motor. Both readings within specs. I checked the Ohm readings for the new TPS, good also.
Now I'm waiting for the same problem, and I guess I should be looking at that mechanical throttle lever assy before I replace the throttle control motor.
I have a question. Should I have tested BEFORE I cleared out the codes??? I was thinking it shouldn't matter, so I cleared the code. Any thoughts?
Nasty little devil of a problem, yeah? I saw above az-dave said "we've figured this bastard out". I hope that is the case for my 2000 GS300.
That throttle lever assembly (a mechanical system) apparently negates all the OBDII diagnostics.
From the Lexus manuals the only diagnosis was the OBDII codes. Those first pointed me to the TPS, which I replaced (and thanks to previous posts about this). It was code 1120 and 1121.
After I cleared the codes with my OBDII meter the engine ran fine for about 60 miles, then the same problem, so I replaced the TPS.
Ran fine for about 300 miles, then bang, yesterday same dash indicators, same limp mode, but the OBDII code was P1128, Throttle Control Motor Lock. So I clear the code, get the ohmmeter and check the resistance on the Throttle Control Motor. Both readings within specs. I checked the Ohm readings for the new TPS, good also.
Now I'm waiting for the same problem, and I guess I should be looking at that mechanical throttle lever assy before I replace the throttle control motor.
I have a question. Should I have tested BEFORE I cleared out the codes??? I was thinking it shouldn't matter, so I cleared the code. Any thoughts?
02-27-12, 04:50 PM
#176
No homo, but I feel you man. I took my GS into the dealer to see if they can find the problem to my navi. They said okay so I left it with them. An hour later they called me and said they don't know what the problem is. He then told me that it'll be $135.00 for labor. I came up there and asked them what exactly did you guys do? I had already removed all the panels for easy access for you. The guy said they changed the fuse for the radio..... He explained a little more if I wanted to continue it'll be an extra 500 to actually find the problem, without the fix. When I was ready to pay, I asked the cashier if I could speak to the mechanic to see if they can lower the price and she gave a wtf look. They told me the mechanic won't see me because he was busy....
So basically I paid 135 dollars for a fuse that didn't need to be replaced and a car wash.
The repair manual would actually help you somewhat. It shows you how to diagnose the sensors to see if it's bad or not. It would help people who knows completely nothing about cars... And I'm offering a free copy =]
(well... Not exactly free because you have to pay for postage)
So basically I paid 135 dollars for a fuse that didn't need to be replaced and a car wash.
The repair manual would actually help you somewhat. It shows you how to diagnose the sensors to see if it's bad or not. It would help people who knows completely nothing about cars... And I'm offering a free copy =]
(well... Not exactly free because you have to pay for postage)
To All: Id also like to emphasize that I Used to take my GS to the dealers. In fact, I took mine to 3 different dealers in the Phoenix area over the years. I was severely disappointed each time. In each and every case, Lexus charged me to "Diagnose" the problem, but could never once guarantee their proposed repair would fix the problem. The problems were:
1) Brake Failure. Literally brakes went out at 120K. Prior to brakes failing a loud noise eminated from behind the dash and the BRAKE, ABS and VCS lights would come on then go off after a while. This happened for a month. I took to 2 dealers. They supposedly checked everything, couldnt find the problem...replaced get this, the Battery terminal (that alone was $100 with labor). At end of day they could not determine cause of noise and lights because it was intermittent and they suggested I replace the ECU, and if that dint work to replace the Master Cylinder and ABS Unit.
I didnt feel this was remotely acceptable and found this forum, did some research and discovered the Compressed Nitrogen brake booseter was leaking, causing the intermittent problem, I replaced the Master cylinder+Brake booster assembly, kept my ABS module and ECU and have been problem free for 132K more miles
2) Limp Mode. Again after frustration I took her to a DIFFERENT dealer. They did the scan and suggested the TPS. Which I did. $150 later problem comes back, and Im stranded in 120+ heat in limp mode...20 miles from home. Take back to Dealer, they say they can only replace the entire Throttle Body. I ask if they guarantee it will fix problem, they say they cannot. I say "screw it", and I diagnose the problem myself along with the help of a much smaller "Limp Mode" section back then. I buy a used TB from Greenleaf online, use the Motor off it, and have been problem free for years.
3) Air Conditioning failure. Again after some frustration I take to a dealer and explain AC is cutting in and out. They supposedly est it and tell me the AC compressor is shot. I get a quote, laugh at it, and taker her home. After some digging around I learn there is a control module for the AC, Fan and vents behind the radio in the dash. Replace it, and have been problem free for year...wow...My AC Compressor wasnt bad after all.
4) VVTi problem, and finally last year I almost threw in the towel, and took her again due to a rough idle I could not pin point. After again trying to be ripped off with an entire Upper-end head repair, I discover my rough idle is a $25 solenoid. Of course they wont fix it...its simply not enough for the dealer to care about, so try again to rip the person off.
The reason I mention this is that Ive had it up to my ears with supposed Professionals trying to rip me off cuz I own a lexus. Its criminal. And the repair books, which I have somewhere, doesnt really help with certain problems...its good old common sense and elimination of sources by way of understanding how each system works. Which is why this entire forum is so awesome.
Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to make sure people know the dealers are not always correct or looking out for your best interest...unfortunately.
(PS, I wrote Lexus Corporate after the Brake Issue...was refunded money, and given coupon for free spark plug change...which I never used)
1) Brake Failure. Literally brakes went out at 120K. Prior to brakes failing a loud noise eminated from behind the dash and the BRAKE, ABS and VCS lights would come on then go off after a while. This happened for a month. I took to 2 dealers. They supposedly checked everything, couldnt find the problem...replaced get this, the Battery terminal (that alone was $100 with labor). At end of day they could not determine cause of noise and lights because it was intermittent and they suggested I replace the ECU, and if that dint work to replace the Master Cylinder and ABS Unit.
I didnt feel this was remotely acceptable and found this forum, did some research and discovered the Compressed Nitrogen brake booseter was leaking, causing the intermittent problem, I replaced the Master cylinder+Brake booster assembly, kept my ABS module and ECU and have been problem free for 132K more miles
2) Limp Mode. Again after frustration I took her to a DIFFERENT dealer. They did the scan and suggested the TPS. Which I did. $150 later problem comes back, and Im stranded in 120+ heat in limp mode...20 miles from home. Take back to Dealer, they say they can only replace the entire Throttle Body. I ask if they guarantee it will fix problem, they say they cannot. I say "screw it", and I diagnose the problem myself along with the help of a much smaller "Limp Mode" section back then. I buy a used TB from Greenleaf online, use the Motor off it, and have been problem free for years.
3) Air Conditioning failure. Again after some frustration I take to a dealer and explain AC is cutting in and out. They supposedly est it and tell me the AC compressor is shot. I get a quote, laugh at it, and taker her home. After some digging around I learn there is a control module for the AC, Fan and vents behind the radio in the dash. Replace it, and have been problem free for year...wow...My AC Compressor wasnt bad after all.
4) VVTi problem, and finally last year I almost threw in the towel, and took her again due to a rough idle I could not pin point. After again trying to be ripped off with an entire Upper-end head repair, I discover my rough idle is a $25 solenoid. Of course they wont fix it...its simply not enough for the dealer to care about, so try again to rip the person off.
The reason I mention this is that Ive had it up to my ears with supposed Professionals trying to rip me off cuz I own a lexus. Its criminal. And the repair books, which I have somewhere, doesnt really help with certain problems...its good old common sense and elimination of sources by way of understanding how each system works. Which is why this entire forum is so awesome.
Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to make sure people know the dealers are not always correct or looking out for your best interest...unfortunately.
(PS, I wrote Lexus Corporate after the Brake Issue...was refunded money, and given coupon for free spark plug change...which I never used)
Last edited by Tuanville; 02-27-12 at 04:55 PM.
02-27-12, 04:53 PM
#177
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to VVT3188: The Throttle Assembly is not really mechanical. Its 95% electronic.
When the throttle cable pulls, it then turns the lever assembly on the back side of the TB. When that turns its simply turning a sensor built into that lever assembly. The ONLY time the throttle is mechanically engaged is literally the final 5% (if that) when you floor the pedal and thats is a safe guard to be able to limp the car home at 10 mph.
Other than that, the rest of the system is electronic and OBDII-driven.
If your having the limp-mode issue, and its intermittent, suspect the Lever Assembly sensor, or the throttle motor. Ive learned the TPS almost never goes bad, even though its the FIRST thing all the Lexus dealers want to replace.
Hope this clarifies a little on the mechanical attributes of the system. The throttle motor mechanically engages the throttle valve which turns the TPS, but its all OBDII monitored, and its how the correct A/F ratio is managed.
When the throttle cable pulls, it then turns the lever assembly on the back side of the TB. When that turns its simply turning a sensor built into that lever assembly. The ONLY time the throttle is mechanically engaged is literally the final 5% (if that) when you floor the pedal and thats is a safe guard to be able to limp the car home at 10 mph.
Other than that, the rest of the system is electronic and OBDII-driven.
If your having the limp-mode issue, and its intermittent, suspect the Lever Assembly sensor, or the throttle motor. Ive learned the TPS almost never goes bad, even though its the FIRST thing all the Lexus dealers want to replace.
Hope this clarifies a little on the mechanical attributes of the system. The throttle motor mechanically engages the throttle valve which turns the TPS, but its all OBDII monitored, and its how the correct A/F ratio is managed.
I saw above the throttle lever assembly corrected the common problem we all seem to be having. BUT, I see from your post I missed the "sensor" part of the Throttle Lever Assembly.
I see that part of the mechanical, cable driven unit on the rear of the throttle body is named "Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor". Which is different from the "Throttle Position Sensor" that is on the front of the throttle body.
I think I'm getting it now, dave. I think if I have the problem again, it's in abeyance right now, I'll go the that Throttle Lever Assembly as the fix.
I don't see an OBDII code for that, so it's not surprising it was a bastard to diagnose.
02-27-12, 05:04 PM
#178
You should check to see if the throttle position sensor is good or not before replacing it. But then again... It could be in spec and still be bad ( O .o)
Now I'm just making everyone paranoid. Check it first though...
Now I'm just making everyone paranoid. Check it first though...
dave, what I was getting at was the posts above went through all these situations where the OBDII readings indicated a TPS problem (1120, 1121 codes), then that did not fix the same 'limp mode' problem, then the problem was identified as the TCM (in my case, an 1128 code). And that did not correct the problem.
I saw above the throttle lever assembly corrected the common problem we all seem to be having. BUT, I see from your post I missed the "sensor" part of the Throttle Lever Assembly.
I see that part of the mechanical, cable driven unit on the rear of the throttle body is named "Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor". Which is different from the "Throttle Position Sensor" that is on the front of the throttle body.
I think I'm getting it now, dave. I think if I have the problem again, it's in abeyance right now, I'll go the that Throttle Lever Assembly as the fix.
I don't see an OBDII code for that, so it's not surprising it was a bastard to diagnose.
I saw above the throttle lever assembly corrected the common problem we all seem to be having. BUT, I see from your post I missed the "sensor" part of the Throttle Lever Assembly.
I see that part of the mechanical, cable driven unit on the rear of the throttle body is named "Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor". Which is different from the "Throttle Position Sensor" that is on the front of the throttle body.
I think I'm getting it now, dave. I think if I have the problem again, it's in abeyance right now, I'll go the that Throttle Lever Assembly as the fix.
I don't see an OBDII code for that, so it's not surprising it was a bastard to diagnose.
02-27-12, 05:31 PM
#179
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Just took the GS300 out for a test ride again, 20 miles, runs like a top. Intermittent problem I guess, since it was running in that limp mode with the dash codes and a P1128 (Throttle Control Motor Lock) until I cleared them with the OBDII meter.
ECU problem? I have no idea at this point. Just have to wait and see if the trbl reoccurs and take it from there. But I'll rely on this thread for a fix before I'll rely on the Lexus dealer. They'll probably send me right back to the TPS and charge me $150.
02-27-12, 06:56 PM
#180
Whoops, sorry I meant to say check the *throttle lever assembly*
I replaced the TPS per the 1120, 1121 OBDII code, still had the same trouble. Checked the replacement part TPS again today AND the TPM, both were fine per the Ohmmeter checks according to the manual.
Just took the GS300 out for a test ride again, 20 miles, runs like a top. Intermittent problem I guess, since it was running in that limp mode with the dash codes and a P1128 (Throttle Control Motor Lock) until I cleared them with the OBDII meter.
ECU problem? I have no idea at this point. Just have to wait and see if the trbl reoccurs and take it from there. But I'll rely on this thread for a fix before I'll rely on the Lexus dealer. They'll probably send me right back to the TPS and charge me $150.
Just took the GS300 out for a test ride again, 20 miles, runs like a top. Intermittent problem I guess, since it was running in that limp mode with the dash codes and a P1128 (Throttle Control Motor Lock) until I cleared them with the OBDII meter.
ECU problem? I have no idea at this point. Just have to wait and see if the trbl reoccurs and take it from there. But I'll rely on this thread for a fix before I'll rely on the Lexus dealer. They'll probably send me right back to the TPS and charge me $150.