Here's the question do you plan to go more than 350hp mark? No bs just truthfully. Or a easier way to think about it is...do you want to spend another 4-5g's to take your car to the next level? Boost is addicting, you will need more and more to get your fix

As far as fuel goes:
You can do a cheap fuel upgrade with a set of 550cc injectors, walbro pump, and rising rate regulator. Well it's not cheap, but it shouldn't break your bank. I did it for about $650. Involves modding your stock fuel rail for a return fitting, run a return line to the tank, put in new pump, add a FPR, and throw in new injectors. I'd say that will be able to safely carry you to around 450whp. The stock motor can take 450hp for a while, but its just a matter of time before the weak rods snap and thin ringlands break.

The stock fuel system...I wouldnt recommend you going more than 7-9psi boost with it. The factory injectors are a measly 280cc or something pathetic lol. Also you will have to worry abotut the factory ignition system past 400hp. The boost at that level tends to blow the spark out.

At 11psi, i would recommend a set of new injectors at the very least. The return line , pump, and regulator can be optional but i'd still recommend it since I'm sure you will be upgrading in the future anyways. Everyone always say the wont but they end up doing it lol. I ran on completely stock fuel when I was at 9psi and it was leaning out a bit up top already. When I upgraded fuel along with 2mm HG, I went straight to 15psi.

 

I really want to, but i do understand the cost of the next level...which is pretty much out of my budget right now, and i won't be able to achieve it until after this summer.

I was also told that my stock fuel won't be able to keep up with the 550s, so is it possible to throw in some 330s instead and still have my stock fuel keeping up with it?

 

nice write up. it didnt look like you had to trim any of the chassis to fit the piping thru.

well im thinking about boosting too, cant debate to just slap on a kit, the only thing stopping me is afriad of blowing the engine. but im considering a engine swap which is easier and no worries. but trying to go the budget way.

 

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Awesome write up man. Always loved your car and this makes it even cooler. And no pics of the entire car?

NA-T probably is easier than swap IMO.

 

close to 150k tho. but have heard these motors will last till 350k miles

 

Very wise words lol. I wouldn't recommend anyone here to do an engine swap unless you are really really prepared for it. You can achieve very similar power results with the GE motor just by building up the bottom end with stronger internals. You don't have to worry about all the custom fabrication and such.

ElitistK, you can throw in 550's right now. Even though the stock pump can't fully fuel 550's. Maybe those injectors will only put out like 350-400cc or so at max with the stock pump. Once you do eventually upgrade the pump(cheap only like $100) they will run at full 550. No point to buy a set of 330cc now and then buy another set of injectors later. Just start big and work your way around it. The AEM FIC controls the injectors directly...that means you can tune around it all. Still I would recommend at least an upgraded pump. You can hold off on the FPR and return line for last.

 

daveh (boostwrex.com) has a supra w/ a spare 214k mile block and it runs 8s on the 1/4 mile. i've also heard of people boosting with over 250k miles. as long as you change your oil/seals/gaskets on time, you shouldn't have a problem at all.

gotcha. thanks.

 

yeah but like what jeff said boosting is addicting. but i guess for now i can just boost na-t, only worries again is blowing the motor or tranny

 

why would you blow an engine for no reason? you'll only blow it if you lean out, run too much psi with too high compression (without the right fuel), etc.

 

yeah im saying is what if something goes wrong

 

Hmnnn...How much did this set you back err ahead?

 

wow what a great write up man ive got the same kit just waiting to be put in my car in my garage!

ive got a couple of qs for you though

::

I highly recommend upgrading your feed and drain lines. -4AN for feed and -8AN for drain

Feed list (don't need NPT to -AN adapter)
555-100050 #4 STR HOSE END PUSH LOC
555-102200 #4 PUSH LOC HOSE 5' BLUE (or whatever length you need)

Drain list
555-100129 1/2"NPT TO #8 FLARE 45 degree bend
555-100107 3/8"NPT TO #8 FLARE
555-100052 #8 STR HOSE END PUSH LOC
555-102220 #8 PUSH LOC HOSE 5' BLUE (or whatever length you need)*
*People usually run -6AN for their fuel system, but if you decide you want to flow more, then you can go up to -8AN and buy like 20 ft. of this stuff.


::

where can i find these??

 

alot of info on this tread, but not enough $$$$$$$$$$
should my apexi s-afc be enough for now, just to get the car running? i mean i'll be only boosting 7-8psi to start

 

SAFC is just marginally enough. I used a SAFC as my very first piggy back. Although it worked, I'd recommend against it. Think about it this way...SAFC $300 or FIC for $450 or so. Not that much of a difference in price, but the FIC is a world better than the SAFC.

 

jegs.com. These fittings are cheap but very effective. Similar twist-lok setups from russell costs 2x more.

1300 for the kit
200 for the 1.3mm HG kit
150 for the piping
250 for AEM UEGO wideband
350 for AEM FIC
Misc. stuff is about 200-300 bux
Total is about 2550.

Not including all the tools that I bought.