leave it up to caymandive, gernby, and al503 as the resident experts and pioneers in 2IS intake technology. Keep up the good work, guys.

 

Yeah and unfortunately my conclusion after all the testing and thought was put into the intakes, is that all the current intakes available really don't do much for the car. Dyno comparisons and 1/4mile runs are iffy as there are too many variables involved to actually conclude which one works the best. I honestly think that the stock intake works great and is already well designed. Though I personally believe the JOEZ pipe theoretically "should" enhance the great stock setup, I can't say for sure. As for all the short ram intakes available, there are runs done that are equally as quick as mine in the 1/4, which kinda blows any theory out of the water that they cause the performance to suffer from the extra warm engine bay air. This is how I have concluded that it really doesn't matter what intake you have on the car. Buy the intake that fits you best in (sound, looks, price, etc) and you won't go wrong.

 

Hardly. Your criteria for "expert" seems a little low...

 

I doubt a short ram style setup would acutally cause a significant decrease in power. I can understand that the filter is open to heat from the engine, but as your moving, the air is refreshed and about the same as before. Although the stock air box is far more efficient than a 91 honda civic or some other car that intakes were designed from, you can still improve on the desigen. A good mandrel bent intake tube with a heat shield can make power, or atleast stay at stock levels while giving you a nice little whistle. Make sure that the heat sheild keeps the heat off the filter from the radiatior where 75% of ambient heat comes from and your set. Notice how close the intake is to the radiator, you'll see what I mean.

 

Again, it'll definitely help with the heat when you're moving but that air is still going through the radiator before it gets to the filter.

Every ~11 degrees equal 1 psi. Not close to forced induction levels but every bit helps.

 

My friend recently told me that the injen intake for the old 1IS, always caused the engine light to go off? Is this true?

 

To me the JoeZ is the best overall alternative that is out so far. The air goes through the pipe so fast that it does not even have time to get any real heatsoak. Hence my earlier comments on the pipe "not even being warm" after 20 min of hard driving (should have been more clear). Any intake device that gets enough air pushed through it will not get hot. Any intake that sucks hot air will not perform as well.

The JoeZ works simply because it is something they should have done at the factory. Maybe the bean counters thought an all alum pipe vs a plastic pipe was too much out of wack for the budget (doubt it) OR it just made too much noise. The JoeZ is by no means noisy BUT with the Lexus rep of being quiet they might have thought it was pushing it because an unribbed pipe does make the engine "growl" more.

Now noisy was my old Torino. It grumbled so loud that I would get pulled over at least once a month and get checked to see if I was running straight pipes. Now that car had a ram air hood scoop that I had rigged with a chrome velocity stack. It NEVER got hot due to the fact that it was getting rammed with mass amount of air. In fact my whole carb and manifold was rather cool compared to the rest of the motor due to the hood scoop. I took the hood off for Friday night drags to keep the rest of the motor clean and o show off all that chrome and steel braided hose. (Also the nos system )

I think the Lexus design is a good one and the JoeZ simply finishes it off. Until someone can make a 100% cold air intake system that has the ability to pump more cool air into the motor than the stock system we wil be stuck with a bunch of "cool" looking and sounding intakes that really do not add much power.

Its rtue the JoeZ does not add too much power BUT it does not take any power away....even in traffic where a true short ram intake with no heat shield will simply feed off the engine air that is getting warmer and warmer the longer you sit in traffic. While moving with lots of air going through the engine the other hort rams may be able to pump more air into the engine and develop a little more mid range power.

Thats my 2 cents...

 

The only way I could see this to happen is if the filter was over oiled which could damage the MAF sensor.

 

No intake "pumps" air. It is effectively a straw that the engine sucks air through. No heat sheild will magically deliver cool air through the straw if it doesn't have a sealed enclosure with a sealed duct from a cool source (like the stock intake). I don't think there will be any power benefit from an intake unless it is just an improved version of the stock intake.

 

this intake is now on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INJEN...55755214QQrdZ1

 

jeesh that thing is short. cant imagine how it dosent pull hot air instead of cold.

 

Only thing this Injen intake has over it's competition is it's name brand. Otherwise I'm willing to bet there isn't much of a difference in either sound or gains compared to the other SRI's.

 

Maybe it could have lower losses over stock...

 

ive used injen intakes on my past vehicles and have been really pleased over the gains and quality. "Jdmekcivic" said his car was the prototype and he was gunna release the dyno charts when he got the OK. wat i dont get is why the intake is for sale everywhere but Injen doesnt have it on their site? anyways im pretty sure Injen will give us gains, how much i dont know. but im pretty sure it will because Injen puts alot of R&D into their products.

 

back in my integra days, there used to be a raging debate over CAIs and WAIs (cold air vs warm air intakes) over on the honda forums. The CAIs would always dyno higher, but couldn't be backed up by track times.
The theory was that when strapped to a dyno, even with the hood open and fan blowing, it didn't simulate real world driving. "Heat soak" was a real problem with the WAIs when strapped to a dyno.

One of the forum members decided to test this "heat soak" thingy under real life conditions and attached a thermometer onto the cone of his WAI with a lead running back into the car so he could see the temps while driving. I forget the exactly numbers, but with the car moving ~10-15mph, the temp at the cone was about 1 degree higher than ambient temp. As speed increased, the difference became smaller and smaller until it was indistinguishable.

After much debate, it was concluded that the WAI was the superior setup because the length of tubing was shorter, which meant less restriction, and the "heat soak" issue was a moot point in real world driving and not strapped to a dyno.

I believe that track times instead of dyno numbers should be used to measure performance increase.
YMMV