I agree with J Brady, I think hes on the right track.
I would first and foremost check ALL fuses.Its very possible they could have shorted something and popped a fuse (possibly fuel pump)
Do you have a multimeter?
If so go through EVERY fuse box and with key on check BOTH sides with the meter and see if there is power running through the fuse.I say do it this way because sometimes they LOOK good but are in fact burned through.
I'm willing to bet something came loose as Brady said OR a fuse went.Good luck and keep us posted.I'll try and check this thread throughout the day to see if I can help.

If you dont have a meter go and get one.You can get a cheap one from wal mart that will work just fine.

 

Oh, and I highly doubt it has anything to do with the O2s.They will not cause a no start condition.
Only thing that will cause a no start condition is lack of fuel or lack of spark,or the timing being WAY out of wack.

You sound fairly mechanically inclined, so check to see if you are getting fuel and spark then you can go from there.
One way to check that you are getting fuel(not very safe) but effective is to cycle the key a couple times and then depress the schrader valve on the fuel rail and see if fuel comes out.(watch your eyes)
To check for spark remove a spark plug and while its still connected to the wire(do SCs have wires?) hold the electrode up very close to something that is grounded and have a friend turn the ignition.You SHOULD see a small spark jump from the plug to the grounded metal.
Again good luck.

 

Ok guys,

In the right direction here, keeps blowing the second fuse in the fuse box. Its the 30 AMP Fuse behind the 10 Amp Fuse.

Obvious short.

Opening manual to find out what this belongs to...

Any leads?....

 

EFI. Electronic Fuel Injection.

Must have pinched a wire on install, where it then grounded out. Or possibly melted a wire. Or a combination of both.

Will have to scour header area for the culprit.

Possible short locations?

 

I wish I had a wire diagram so I could trasce the wire for you, but it sounds like you are definately on the right track with either a burnt wire or a pinched wire.
Start thinking backwards.if you were changing out the headers what area would you be working in?????
Look in those areas for ANY kind of loose wire.
Keep up the good work.

 

Thanks. I had a DyNO run scheduled for the shop that did the install early this (Friday) morning. The theory was that I to put approx. 200 mi. on the ECU over Thanksgiving for it to learn the new setup for the most accurate figures.

I think I will pull the car in as is and have them look at it instead. If all fails, then maybe I get a refund on the Dyno expenses atleast


If anyone could come up with the wire diagrams on short notice I would appreciate it, where hopefully we can prevent other potential SC4 Header Candidates from going through this stressful ordeal.

 

Did you get your car running yet?

 

Yeah he got it running, On the road now for a 20 + hour trip. I talked to him. Forgot what problem was exactly. Think he drove with open headers to exhaust shop and burnt or pinched wire harness. Caused fused to blow. Had to repair wire and fixed everything.
Nothing directly to do with Headers.

 

Thanks jgscott. I couldnt drive the car on Thanksgiving and completely missed the Dyno runs that I paid for, so please excuse the delayed explaination.

It turns out the torque on the motor (unbolted) was slamming my exhaust system into the frame of the car. More specifically the lower O2 sensors were taking a beating until they got pinched and shorted out.

The O2 sensors are wired into the computer ECU Fuel Management System, so when they shorted they blew the fuse responsible for the Fuel Pump. No start condition.

The sensors wires were repaired and fuse replaced to solve the problem.

To prevent it from re-occurring, I had my rear O2 sensor bongs (pots, seats) reangled so that they were 30 Degrees from parallel and 10 degrees down in the pipe to completely clear the frame.

Warning: If you get an aftermarket system, make sure they DO NOT put the rear O2 sensors in at a 90 Degrees angle or you might experience the same problem I did.


On a seperate note, 16 hours into my drive the exhaust system sprung a leak. I found out that it blew the TOP O2 sensor from the driver side header. Maybe someone didnt install it completely or something, but I will reinstall it today and apply a Medium Threadlocking Compound. I highly recommend that others do the same.

Even with the missed Dyno runs, the cars screams on the interstate and stoplights. Definately worth the money to mod wih intake and exhaust system.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Congrats!!! I think you're the first SC to do the instsall.

 

that's awesome that you were able to finally find the cause and get her started. Also majorly cool that it wasn't too expensive to fix.

I finally got my headers on over the Thanksgiving weekend and am hoping nothing unusual happens over the next week or 2.

 

Actually the second. SRQ400 has his writeup in the SC section. Great to see the ingenuity of our board members. Looking forward to more driving impression posts

 

Actually I was the 1st but.... I did not post because they were installed on my Motor while it was out of the car.

 

Good Luck. Hopefully no surprises. Just dont make any plans with the car in the following day or two just in case.