Congrats!

 

that's awesome drew! i told you the tc is going to make your day! finally you got it, yay! yeah, that's major power huh? boy now i really want to get tc and see what my car can do. i have some heavier 20s so that might be anther story, hehe...

oh and yeah, get some supra 3.76 gearing lsd and see what kind of amazing timing you can get from 0-60

and 38hp gain with the tc?! that's increditble if you ask me!

 

38 more HP????? Is this for real?

 

Henry, the new PI TC gives no HP gains on the dyno, that's from his intake and ECU + any other mods he has (plugs, etc) + probably being lucky and getting an exceptionally strong motor from the factory.

You CAN see a big TQ spike due to the aftermarket high stall TC if you dyno with the torque converter 'unlocked'. This is the real world increase in performance, but isn't accurately recorded on the dyno. I've got an old post on this with info from PI I'll try to find and link here.

http://www.converter.com/whatsnew_dynamometer.htm

 

Thanks Henry,
Yes, Dave is right. There is no HP gain with TC. It is all gained with the SRT intake plus ECU.
I have DYNOS that I will post soon. Just waiting for Mo at SRT to email them to me.

It's kind of like go karting. You ever notice that there are always 1 or 2 go karts that seem a bit faster than the rest, even though they are all the same ones with identical engines. I'm thinking I got me one of those faster go karts.

I had TM plugs that I was going to install in the car. I changed my mine and insalled factory OEM ones. The dynos are run with OEM toyota plugs.

 

T.L.W.

I don't believe the stock torque converter stall speed is 1800rpms.

Straight from the 2000 Repair Manual page SS-42:

Engine stall revolution:

1UZ-FE: 2,250 +- 150 rpm
2JZ-GE: 2,700 +- 150 rpm

 

Rated stall speed and ACTUAL stall speed are NEVER the same.
Well the ONLY exception might be a race car with a transbrake.

Even these 2800 converters I doubt brake stall to a true 2800 RPM.
Now if you "flash" the converter by just smashing the gas the engine should jump up to the rated stall speed.

I pose a test to anyone who already has one installed in their car.Go out and apply the brakes and floor the gas.Watch how high the tach goes before either the car starts to roll forward or the rear tires break traction.That is your ACTUAL stall speed.
Now go out and do a 5 MPH roll and then smash the gas and watch how high the tach goes.This is your TRYE stall speed.

 

oh sorry guys, my bad. well, guess i have to go back and do more homework on these toys @_@

 

so is this correct

the reason im asking is beacuse i wondering if i should go back to my stock Tc with the FI

 

No you definately dont want to go back to the stock converter.The good converter does other things than just raise the stall speed.It also multiplies the torque better and more efficiently.
IF anything you might want to go back to the stock gears but leave the Limited slip diff in there.

 

That is actually incorrect.With a 4000 stall your car will feel like a dog off the line if you don't mash it.The rpms jump up to 4k when you mash the pedal, or wherever your motor creates enough torque..Jtanyo1, you might want to look at your dyno sheet and select a t/c speed that is 500 rpm below your max torque rpm.If you put a 5k t/c in your car it doesn't mean it will work.You also want to run a bigger tranny cooler and fan since the heat from a high stall t/c can destroy your tranny.For most guys with a few bolt ons a 2800 t/c will work wonders.Then suspension work will definetly help too,spinning tires doesn't win races.

 

thanks man

 

i don't think you want to. davegs4 went from 2800 to 2600 and he already noticed the loss. i think you should get 2600

 

I thought he went 2400
???

what will you be doing lol

 

nop he got 2600

me? i should sell my car