suprasoup

I'm currently in the process of doing a head gasket change and im cleaning the mating surface and I notice these areas that look like possible corosion or something.

Is this normal and is it ok to proceed with the head gasket change or should i send it to the machine shop?

thanks

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

you will need to get that surface decked / milled if measurements still allow it.

corrosion looks like is on the ring of fire looking at the first picture and won't have a perfect seal

coolant may sip into the combustion chamber or exhaust gasses into the coolant/

suprasoup

Thanks thats what i was thinking, it sucks cuz I only see it around the first piston and others look good. Since I'm going to have to dissasemble the block now what bearings do you guys recommend. I guess I should have the crank polished while Im at it haha.

suprasoup

I found a Machine shop here in Phoenix by the name of Akina Motorsportz. Looks like they specialize on 2jz's and other imports so that's a plus. They quoted me about $400 to deck the head and the block, hone the cylinder walls and polish the crank does this seem like a good deal? I have never had machine work done before.

Thanks.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

The combustion chamber sealing ring looks pretty borderline. Was the head equally eaten?

Your best bet is to deck the block and mill the head but honestly $400 is a bit steep.

suprasoup

Yeah I'm pretty sure I'm going to have both machined I haven't checked the head as of yet. I will do that tonight and will update. The $400 is with me rounding it up, it comes out to about $375 before tax and that's for the decking the block, milling the head, honing the cylinder walls and polishing the crank. Does this still seem steep? What would you say is an average price for the same work done? I will probably check a few other places just liked the idea that Akina Motorsportz seems familiar with our motors.

Is polishing the crank worth it if the motor did not have any bearing issues and it all looks good?
Should I hone the cylinder walls even if the cross hatching is still visible?
Don't want to cut corners but I do want to make sure I'm getting my money worth in the things I'm doing for this build. I am going NA-T by the way.

Thanks for the reply.

RXRodger

iTrader: (2)

I have put them back together looking like what yours does, that is if this is for an NA motor, turbo motor no way do the machining. It isn't optimum, as others have said you would be better off to do the machining work, but it will work. It kind of depends on what you are going to do with the car. If you are going to put it back together, take a wood block and scotchbrite pad and clean it as best you can. If you are going to tear it the rest of the way down, I would say the quote you have sounds decent.

suprasoup

Ok so you think I should leave the crank as is if all looks good and I figured I would go ahead and have it honed and replace the rings for good measure since it will already be bare block. So sounds like crank polishing isn't really worth it would you agree anyone else want to comment on this. Is honing not really necessary since cylinders still have cross hatching and good compression or would it be worth going ahead and doing it since it will be there. I still have not checked the head yet but if its free of pitting/corrosion and straight I probably shouldn't touch it either then would you agree. If all in all checks out you think I should just deck the block and just put new bearings in?
Like I said I want it to be done right and not cut corners however I want my moneys worth.

Thanks for the reply.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

Actually ge pistons and GTE are made of exact same castings inclusive of rangelands. Toyota 2jz OEM pistons can handle upwards of 800 hp . Its the rods and rod bolts that need attention especially when these newer small frame turbo are being used with e85 as they are making torque alot quicker which the OEM rods would be on borrowed time .

I have been at 600rwhp on 93oct since 2010 and still on original block and I use ge block with GTE head gasket and my measured compression ratio is around 9:4:1. Comes down to supporting parts , quality of ECU and most important, tuner abilities ...your tuner can make or break any setup

suprasoup

Wow that's impressive to be running 600whp for that long. Do you have a build thread? I would love to be around those numbers reliably for that long. Do you have any input on the machine work I should have done? From what I know the motor has not had any issues prior to me buying it head gasket looked like it was not leaking, compression test was good, still have cross hatching and the head is super clean not really oil stained on the inside at all. I still have not checked the mating surface but will update once I do. Here are some pictures of the head I have currently.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

NA or boost?
New rings equals hone job and you need to remove that ridge up top before yanking the pistons out.
Crank polish is cheap like $30... Likely worth it. It may cost more if they mag it and clean it.

Some of your fees are cleaning and inspection if done in a better shop. But still $400 seems steep compared to these parts.

What do you intend to do with the head? Was this a core motor or DD that needs freshened? How many miles on it? What is your goal?

suprasoup

Looking to boost the car shooting for 500-600whp
How do you recommend removing the ridge on the top is it just carbon build up?
Do I need to hone it if it stills has cross hatching and good compression or worth it since I already have it torn down?
It's was a DD with 65k miles on it. I just want it done right since I'm this far into the motor but want to keep stock pistons and rods but plan on doing ARP hardware and updating head with new springs, valve seals. I already got a new oil pump, water pump and gaskets/seals.

lexforlife

iTrader: (7)

With a 65k motor ,in our world we call this a virgin motor. For your power goals which I consider modest, I wouldn't bother with doing any bottomend work . When I boosted mine in 2007 I had 92k on block , today same motor is at 146k and running the 600rwhp on 93oct..

If one can avoid doing anything other than OEM I recommend OEM as I've seen countless built motors here in south Florida (which south Florida seems to be the boosting capital as down here they'll throw a turbo on a lawnmower , lol) if not done right they smoke and have excessive blow by . Ive seen spun bearings due to incorrect clearances etc. unless you are planning to run turbo like the new gen2 6266 dbb or 6466which are fast spooling and quick torque making , I personally would stay all OEM .

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Look up cylinder ridge reamer....

suprasoup

Update: I got the pistons out did not need a ridge reamer as there actually was no lip on any of the cylinder walls it simply wiped off. Bearings I think look good but im no pro at this, looks like there is a coating on the bearings like a white film is this normal. Do yall think the bearings look good?