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Make sure you have the right line size, they are usually mm factory and the ones you get over here are standard so you need one that fits snug. Its like an inbetween size but you can get it I forget what it was.
The other option is there is a threaded port on the back side of the intake manifold (same part you are showing in the pic but back by firewall).
It has a plug in it, you can remove the plug and get a barb that will thread in with a barbed end or use the factory supra turbo gas filter part (which is basically a plastic nipple with a gas filter which is stock on TTs).
I want to say the threading is for a 1/8 BSPT which is the british standard thread, like the oil pressure sensor issue for the oil feed.
I can get a 1/8 npt (US national thread) to go in a few turns and stops, which means it is probably BPST like the oil stuff.
You can order a 1/8 BSPT adapter or a hose barb, and use that.. I think that will be the best most permanent solution. The gte map gas filter is a nice piece but it is smooth and has no barb on it either (not sure if gte guys remove those on big power).
You can also remove that nipple in the front, all those are press fitted in, you could then drill it out and tap it for a 1/8npt and use a hose barb fitting of the right size.
I haven;t done this one but I do it in lots of places to plug things or put real barbs on, like the drivers side coolant neck on a GE has an extra coolant nipple for the throttle body coolant line, I always pull those out with vice grips and drill and tap them for 1/8 npt and put a plug in with thread sealant (Permatex liquid pfte good stuff), cause I always delete that coolant line. Drivers side needs to be welded up, capped off or use a different hard line. Don't use actual roll teflon it will get lodged in places eventually.
For the time being a zip tie could help even without the barb, crank down tight on it but maybe move the map sensor to the rear factory port that is plugged like I mentioned.
I never blew that vacuum line off at 20 psi, or any vacuum line actually.. I blew a few inter cooler couplers apart at different times, but no vacuum lines so that is new to me.
I would guess the line is a hair too big in diameter, it is one of the smaller ports on the manifold like those on top of the throttle body.
Here's a pic of the tt gas filter on right, and a 1/8 NPT barb in the BPST hole that's normally capped
I recently picked up a 2JZ VVti junkyard motor from an IS for a low-budget NA-T build.
Found a good deal on TT rods and pistons, as well as the JDM Aristo VVTi cam. I'm looking into using an Aristo ECU and wiring harness to convert it to run standalone in a Mazda RX8 trackcar.
Looking for around 350-420whp.
Couple questions,
1) The motor is being torn down because it was a junkyard motor. I only managed to grab the longblock so I need help choosing all the right "other" pieces to get it to a complete functional engine.
2) Will be using aftermarket FFIM for GE and turbo manifold for GE- what size turbo would you recommend for close to stock drive-ability/response on the TT ecu?
3) Should I purchase a used piggyback of some sort just in case my power goals go up by 50-100hp? If so, what's the best cost-conscious unit?
4) Since the motor is being taken to the machine shop already - what work should be requested "while i'm in there"?
5) Can you help point me in the right direction as far as which 550cc injectors I should choose?
6) Can I still just use IS300 coils?
Define trackcar. Like turns and response is important? or driving in mostly straight lines?
I figure you mean the first one, then I would go with a smaller turbo something like a s360/s362 with the goodies on it if your budget allows.
It sort of comes down to personal preference and driving style, but something like s366 which is very common on these motors is more for higher power and straight lines, like 500hp+ I think this would be a little laggy for track use however.
I wouldn't use a piggyback at first, the mod is complicated enough as it is I would get it running on some 440's and then upgrade with a piggyback later if you like. members have gotten close to 500rwhp on 440cc injectors, cause the fuel pressure rises with boost so it just depends on the setup.
You can go 550 and fuel controller right away but you could have issues on top of all the other stuff you are doing, then you may feel the need to post in here, Hey Ali why did you tell me to do 550's and a piggyback my track car is now a big paperweight in my driveway, and I will then casually remind you that I advised not to do that and then recommend you undo it until your car actually runs on the stock stuff.
What work should be done at the machine shop? why is it at a machine shop, just drop in the tt pistons and rods and re-assemble you shouldn't be machining anything.
If the shop is doing the assembly there isn't anything additional to do, other than a new gasket kit so replace everything on the assembly, and timing belt kit and waterpump.
leave the original oil pump unless it had issues or you don't know. If you do change it use the stock GE vvti one, not a gte one.. different oil volume/pressures.
You could have the main bearings checked and replaced while they are in there, not a bad idea since you haven't run that motor to know if its good or knocks.
I would actually use the USDM GE cams. The aristo vvti cams are probably the same duration as the ge ones, and since those cams have been in that cylinder head happy leave those cams in until you actually upgrade, jdm cams are not an upgrade and might even be a downgrade, even over ge cams. (remember GE cams are designed for torque on a n/a motor and are pretty aggressive for a stock cam). From my research, the only stock cam that has more duration that a USDM GE Cam, is a USDM GTE cam, which doesn't even apply to vvti cause there is no vvti gte's in the US.
Define trackcar. Like turns and response is important? or driving in mostly straight lines?
I figure you mean the first one, then I would go with a smaller turbo something like a s360/s362 with the goodies on it if your budget allows.
It sort of comes down to personal preference and driving style, but something like s366 which is very common on these motors is more for higher power and straight lines, like 500hp+ I think this would be a little laggy for track use however.
I wouldn't use a piggyback at first, the mod is complicated enough as it is I would get it running on some 440's and then upgrade with a piggyback later if you like. members have gotten close to 500rwhp on 440cc injectors, cause the fuel pressure rises with boost so it just depends on the setup.
You can go 550 and fuel controller right away but you could have issues on top of all the other stuff you are doing, then you may feel the need to post in here, Hey Ali why did you tell me to do 550's and a piggyback my track car is now a big paperweight in my driveway, and I will then casually remind you that I advised not to do that and then recommend you undo it until your car actually runs on the stock stuff.
What work should be done at the machine shop? why is it at a machine shop, just drop in the tt pistons and rods and re-assemble you shouldn't be machining anything.
If the shop is doing the assembly there isn't anything additional to do, other than a new gasket kit so replace everything on the assembly, and timing belt kit and waterpump.
leave the original oil pump unless it had issues or you don't know. If you do change it use the stock GE vvti one, not a gte one.. different oil volume/pressures.
You could have the main bearings checked and replaced while they are in there, not a bad idea since you haven't run that motor to know if its good or knocks.
I would actually use the USDM GE cams. The aristo vvti cams are probably the same duration as the ge ones, and since those cams have been in that cylinder head happy leave those cams in until you actually upgrade, jdm cams are not an upgrade and might even be a downgrade, even over ge cams. (remember GE cams are designed for torque on a n/a motor and are pretty aggressive for a stock cam). From my research, the only stock cam that has more duration that a USDM GE Cam, is a USDM GTE cam, which doesn't even apply to vvti cause there is no vvti gte's in the US.
Yes, use the is300/vvti coils and ignitor.
Trackcar that is focused on road-race/time attack style driving. Will be an all-around type vehicle but definitely geared towards being responsive than just being a dyno queen.
I actually would prefer a smaller turbo for packaging and usable power. I like the idea of the S360 turbo.
Suggesting that I do the TT ECU mod only to start seems like a good idea. Part of me wanted to "do it while I'm there" but I can quickly see how that gets out of hand.
The engine is going to get sent to a machine shop because I originally want to do a build with aftermarket pistons/rods, and possibly even head work... but I did more and more research and I think a GE VVTi block with Supra rods and pistons + TT head gasket + ARP head bolts, etc would be fine and more cost effective.
The motor was pulled from a junkyard and someone improperly removed the VVTi cam gear, made it really hard for me to disassemble, and it generally looks kinda old and rusty. I I want to take the block to a machine shop to have them take a better look at it, and possibly make sure I don't need to deck the block or anything.
While this isn't much of a show car - and it's essentially a poorman's stock GTE build - it would be nice to have them hot-tank the motor so it at least seems like I'm installing a "somewhat new" engine into the car.
I will go ahead and run the GE Cams as per your suggestion - less work for me!
There is currently an Aristo Ecu for sale that I found but it's the immobilizer unit. I know it's easier to wire up one without it - but how much more work is necessary to defeat the immobilizer?
With so many different opinions on which 440cc injector to go with... what is yours?
Cost effective would be finding a non vvti block and throwing the vvti head on it. what would even be more cost effective is just skipping vvti and running a non vvti block but vvti would be helpful in your case. honestly in a race car I would skip the tt ecu mod completely and pick up a standalone like an aem or pro efi, or even a ecu master on a budget and then dial everything in.
Do you trust the machine shop? I have had stuff come back from shops that had lots of issues, so you could pour a whole bunch of $$ into putting pistons/rods into a questionable vvti block, and end up with something not reliable. Most people drop them into a vvti block themselves where they know it was a good runner, so that saves time and money over a gte but what you are doing might as well buy a gte IMO.
Maybe they are really good and familiar with 2jz's and it will come out alright, it isn;t that hard of a job but they might not be familiar with 2jz's.
I prefer a running engine I can test, get a compression and leakdown tester on it, heck I would buy a whole cheap running gs300/sc300 for the non vvti block and part the rest out before I put my trust in a random machine shop with a random block. If i needed to have vvti I would then slap a is300 cylinder head on it. You can do it the way you mentioned but you don't know how its going to turn out.
I would even suggest drop shipping a vvti gte and start from there, you wont have to send it to a machine shop likely, and honestly you might end up in a similar price range.
The 440cc injectors recommended are in the tt ecu mod thread. you do not want an immobilizer ecu, it is not easy to bypass but is possible, I wont be helping with that.
What do you mean how do I go about running a ffim, you install it. If you can't figure out where everything goes I would honestly try and discourage you from this project, you are tackling the hardest combo shooting for vvti and starting with an unknown condition 2jzge vvti block. The least of your worries is the intake manifold in this scenario, wiring and getting together a block that works reliably is the part to focus on. Alot of times those vvti heads will be warped when you take them off, cause of the higher compression and thinner headgasket and some people don't believe in regular maintenance, so if you vvti head is shot that puts you behind again.
Not 100% but I think you can't convert to drive by cable unless you are manual, I think the conversion puts the ecu in limp mode were the auto transmission shifting is limited to 1st, but with a manual you can get around it and it'll drive from what I heard from others, how well I am not sure haven't done it.
Look into the ecu master ecu, honestly I think itll work out better for what you want to do and upgrades in the future. IF you are running a race car with a short aristo harness you might as well go standalone now and run whatever you want, I wouldn't even bother with the tt ecu mod on that type of setup. Its more for reliability etc.. but you won't need that you will be more about the performance I would think in a track car.
Just my opinion I try to give good advice, not just any advice. Not going to spoon feed but I'll point you in the right direction.
I can attest to using a running engine. I have/had a fancy machined engine that was clean and ready to go and it wouldn't build oil pressure and i scorched the bearings. Ended up with the ole reliable GE that came out of my car and i trust the hell out of it now!
I recommend ecumaster black, its the best budget option out there for the features, i've got it in my SC.
Cost effective would be finding a non vvti block and throwing the vvti head on it. what would even be more cost effective is just skipping vvti and running a non vvti block but vvti would be helpful in your case. honestly in a race car I would skip the tt ecu mod completely and pick up a standalone like an aem or pro efi, or even a ecu master on a budget and then dial everything in.
Do you trust the machine shop? I have had stuff come back from shops that had lots of issues, so you could pour a whole bunch of $$ into putting pistons/rods into a questionable vvti block, and end up with something not reliable. Most people drop them into a vvti block themselves where they know it was a good runner, so that saves time and money over a gte but what you are doing might as well buy a gte IMO.
Maybe they are really good and familiar with 2jz's and it will come out alright, it isn;t that hard of a job but they might not be familiar with 2jz's.
I prefer a running engine I can test, get a compression and leakdown tester on it, heck I would buy a whole cheap running gs300/sc300 for the non vvti block and part the rest out before I put my trust in a random machine shop with a random block. If i needed to have vvti I would then slap a is300 cylinder head on it. You can do it the way you mentioned but you don't know how its going to turn out.
I would even suggest drop shipping a vvti gte and start from there, you wont have to send it to a machine shop likely, and honestly you might end up in a similar price range.
The 440cc injectors recommended are in the tt ecu mod thread. you do not want an immobilizer ecu, it is not easy to bypass but is possible, I wont be helping with that.
What do you mean how do I go about running a ffim, you install it. If you can't figure out where everything goes I would honestly try and discourage you from this project, you are tackling the hardest combo shooting for vvti and starting with an unknown condition 2jzge vvti block. The least of your worries is the intake manifold in this scenario, wiring and getting together a block that works reliably is the part to focus on. Alot of times those vvti heads will be warped when you take them off, cause of the higher compression and thinner headgasket and some people don't believe in regular maintenance, so if you vvti head is shot that puts you behind again.
Not 100% but I think you can't convert to drive by cable unless you are manual, I think the conversion puts the ecu in limp mode were the auto transmission shifting is limited to 1st, but with a manual you can get around it and it'll drive from what I heard from others, how well I am not sure haven't done it.
Look into the ecu master ecu, honestly I think itll work out better for what you want to do and upgrades in the future. IF you are running a race car with a short aristo harness you might as well go standalone now and run whatever you want, I wouldn't even bother with the tt ecu mod on that type of setup. Its more for reliability etc.. but you won't need that you will be more about the performance I would think in a track car.
Just my opinion I try to give good advice, not just any advice. Not going to spoon feed but I'll point you in the right direction.
I have a decent amount of trust in the machine shop. He works on industrial/rare engines all the time and he's familiar with building 2JZ as his clients include a couple drifters.
I might step up to a standalone, however, running the TT ecu as engine management for a couple hundred dollars is enticing.
Will be skipping on the immobilizer ECU.
FFIM question had more to do with running throttle by cable - car will be manual so I guess we're okay with that.
I would drop ship a GTE but realistically that's just going to drive up the cost for me too much. I got the longblock for only 200-ish, if the block isn't in good condition when it gets to the machine shop - I'll go ahead and pick up a cleaner GE block.
Having a car that runs "like stock" at 400whp is the goal. I doubt I will need more because it will probably take me a while to outdrive a 400whp 2800lb car.
Well hopefully it works out, def find the non immobilizer ecu if you choose to try it. You will still have a maf to keep happy though just keep that in mind, recirculating bov etc..
The vvti ge blocks are cheap for a reason, I can usually find the whole engine out of a running car for 500 or less.. the machine shop costs can add up so just be careful.. or else like some others you may wish you had drop shipped the gte is all I am saying, not every ge na-t route is less expensive and for under 400hp you can't beat the spool on the stock twins and cranked up they will get you there, especially if you snag some usdm twins when someones upgrading.
Revision you had me thinking about the ecu and harness again, where are you planning to put your ecu?
The aristo harness will be short some but you could put it in the bay or get creative with it.
If in the cab you may want to find a late model sc300 vvti harness that goes into the cab.
You don't actually need any of the gte stuff on the harness if you are manual and single turbo.. all the sc vvti have the right plug (all auto ), but only the '01 is300 has the correct plug (all auto also , manual was 02+) and I am not sure what years of gs300 vvti have the right plug (all auto once again ), probably the early ones.
Also wanted to mention something that could be useful for the track. I have personally been saved by using the map sensor based ecus several times when blowing off an intercooler or intake coupler, where you can tell something happened and its down on power/boost, but you can still drive the car to where you can fix it.
Majority of the time with the maf sensor ecu's if you blow off any IC coupler the car will more or less stall and be undrivable till you fix it, which is a pain. So I would weld up those pipes and have as few connections as possible if you go that route.
Need some advice. After letting the engine warm up all the way (no stalling) and then driving around with about 4 pulls the car wants to stall. I have to tap the throttle to prevent it from shutting off. After about 3/4 minutes of doing this it’s start idling okay (14.3-14.9 on the WB). I’ve already installed a new O2 sensor and that didn’t fix the issue. Car idles around 550ish rpm.
You may want to bump up the base idle some via the stop screw so it is more like the 650 rpm range after it settles down. this will also need turning the tps back cause adjusting the screw will throw the tps out of adjustment and that could make things worse if it is so it needs to be set again by feel, set it before where it starts to stumble, backed off almost all the way.
I think its a combination of there not being enough air passing the throttle plate when you let off, and maybe depending on the type of blow off valve you are running it can cause it to swing rich if it vents to atmosphere too much too fast. a rich swing and a low idle can cause the wants to stall feeling, a little more air in there and it should handle it a little better, 550 is too low for a turbo car you should be closer to 650-700.
There are small differences in the throttle body setups between gte and ge, some need a little adjustment, some seem to be just fine so it could be that.
it could also be related to another issue but from what I can see in the video its acting mostly normal but that rich swing down to 10 seems too rich, a little more base air past the plate should help with that.
also a note for anyone using a Tial BOV or a similar piston type, the piston needs to be closed at idle vacuum. change the spring or shim the spring accordingly.
It might not sound as cool, but when you are idling and its open the ecu is seeing a wrong reading from the map sensor, and has to adjust constantly on the fly and you will notice it at some point.
You may want to bump up the base idle some via the stop screw so it is more like the 650 rpm range after it settles down. this will also need turning the tps back cause adjusting the screw will throw the tps out of adjustment and that could make things worse if it is so it needs to be set again by feel, set it before where it starts to stumble, backed off almost all the way.
I think its a combination of there not being enough air passing the throttle plate when you let off, and maybe depending on the type of blow off valve you are running it can cause it to swing rich if it vents to atmosphere too much too fast. a rich swing and a low idle can cause the wants to stall feeling, a little more air in there and it should handle it a little better, 550 is too low for a turbo car you should be closer to 650-700.
There are small differences in the throttle body setups between gte and ge, some need a little adjustment, some seem to be just fine so it could be that.
it could also be related to another issue but from what I can see in the video its acting mostly normal but that rich swing down to 10 seems too rich, a little more base air past the plate should help with that.
also a note for anyone using a Tial BOV or a similar piston type, the piston needs to be closed at idle vacuum. change the spring or shim the spring accordingly.
It might not sound as cool, but when you are idling and its open the ecu is seeing a wrong reading from the map sensor, and has to adjust constantly on the fly and you will notice it at some point.
Adjusted the idle screw on the q45 TB and that took care of the stalling issue. Rotated it about 1/2 turn. Gotta back It up a lil cuz it’s idling around 950.
Honestly that isn't that bad of an idle for a high power turbo car, last thing you want after a pull is to stall and loose power as you are trying to stop.
My turbo audi always sat at 900rpms on the dot, with a stage 2 tune. Was always rock solid and never dipped, that is a maf car with bov re-circulation which can be picky too.
So 800-900 is not a bad place to set it especially with the FFIM. I would keep it under 1k though no reason to have it that high unless your afr's are way out of whack.
My car idles at 950-1k with my ffim and RMR throttle body. It's weird it seems to idle at 1k when im coasting up to a stop, then stopped it settles back down to the target lol.
That is actually what it is supposed to do from factory if you had a manual ecu and a manual car, it is supposed to hold a little higher idle, and after a few seconds it will start to wind down (more backed off IACV position) as long as it doesn't pick up significant knock.. if it does pick up knock you will see it start to wind down and then bump back up and it might do this over and over. If you put some really good gas in it probably will stop bouncing and settle down pretty far.
Most standalones you can set how long you want to hold an increased idle and how much of an increased idle by tweaking some different parameters.
Basically for that scenario of increased revs when coming to a stop or aggressive breaking before a corner where you are going to get on it again and don't have time for the stumble that usually happens from a rich mixture (bov venting on throttle letting off or other situations).
I want to say when I had mine dialed in on the 6spd jdm supra ecu and manual trans, it would hang around 900-1k and settle down closer to 800 range. Factory is probably more like 800-900 and 650-700 settled.
Really set it where you feel good about it on idle and when coming to a stop, and make small adjustments, just remember to reset the tps.
With the auto ecu's on a manual, it may not happen as smooth everytime but it should still happen to some degree if you bump up your base idle a hair.
If you are on the factory intake its usually pretty close, maybe just a little more cracked is all you need.
With the FFIM, set it a little higher and make sure the tps is good, and use a toyota tps with adapter where possible on the tt ecu to make it happy.
07-06-20, 07:50 AM
), but only the '01 is300 has the correct plug (all auto also 