Felts

iTrader: (1)

I have a 2jzgte vvti in my sc300 with gt28 hybrid turbos and 2jzgte vvti ecu. Can I turn up boost to 17psi without any tuning and safely have some fun at WOT? Or would I run lean and blow my motor?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

having a stock ecu , I assume you have 440cc injectors. If yes THEN if I were you, I won't turn up the boost to 17psi till I upgrade the fuel system cause you will be flirting with getting lean which can damage your engine. You are basically near the max of those injectors at that boost level.

Besides , you will be hitting boost / fuel cut without the right mods like BCC.

Felts

iTrader: (1)

I have a bccd soldered in already so basically I should just drop in 550cc get a piggyback and tune?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

yes ... since you have the gt28 hybrid... get 650cc and a reliable piggyback .. you should be able to hit 500-550rwhp between 21-24psi and have fun provided all the other supporting mods are there... like your tranny being able to handle the power . What trans do you have ?

Felts

iTrader: (1)

I have the stock auto trans (I know that's a sin) but I'm not really wanting crazy horsepower just close to or a little under 350 rwhp. There is so much confusing information on the forums it's hard to know which piggyback to go with. I basically just need to know which piggyback to go with that can control everything down to ethrottle and vvti intake. I wish I just had a definitive answer with everything I need. I already had a harness made from dr tweak id prefer to not pull the motor and send the harness in again. Is there a piggyback with a jumper harness compatible with this?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

stock auto trans will be your limiting factor. If you continually abuse it above 400rwhp, you will be on borrowed times.

If you are only aiming around 350, your 440cc injectors would suffice. You can safely get up to 400rwhp with them. Your stock ecu will work too. Your stock auto trans will work too. You don't even need a piggyback , just increase your boost up to 15psi and you should be within around your power goals , see where your wideband AFRs are . Let that engine breath by installing a 3" downpipe / midpipe. Just make sure you have a good way of controlling your boost .. otherwise you run the risk of overboosting and getting lean . But at your power level requirements.. all your stock components will bring you there.. just get the engine to breath and increase the boost safely.

Felts

iTrader: (1)

I have a cx racing 3" downpipe and a turbosmart manual boost controller. Later I will probably get a piggyback setup but for now the swap itself costs quite a bit already so I just wanted a little bit more power until I can fine tune it. Thank you for helping me with this though. Now with a secondary wideband do I tap into the primary wideband? I've tried finding how to install one and I can't seem to find the right answer because most people have a standalone to simplify things.

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

Since you are going to use the stock ECU , you will still use the stock O2 sensor for the GTE which is a narrowband since you will need to give a feedback to the ECU so it knows how to adjust fuel injection. The wideband is just a guide for you for now ,since you are not on a standalone , to let you know whether you are not getting lean so you can dial back your boost.

Up to 400rwhp , you can reliably stay with your stock GTE components . Just with a better down/mid pipe / exhaust and a reliable boost controller you can have a good fun with 400rwhp. How many cars on the streets have that ? Won't be too many anyway. It will be after that you get used to boost that the addiction will make you want more and more. You want to get faster more and more especially on an open road. Your downpipe will usually have two bungs.. one on top and one down at the midpipe so you can install the wideband / narrowband sensors .

I was just wondering why you spent so much a GT28 hybrid when with your power goals you can hit 400rwhp with the stock JDM / USDM turbos ?

BTW , you go standalone depending on many reasons ... high power goals so you can drive bigger injectors, protecting your investments with safety features that a standalone can offer, use of the car that will enable you to tailor the fuel and timing map.. and so on.

For a 2JZGTE street car up to 500rwhp and you never go to the drag strip and don't want to spend so much, in my opinion , having the stock ECU and a piggyback is the way to go. You enjoy the reliability of the 2JZGTE stock ECU. Standalones are great only if it is well tuned. Without the right tuner, no matter if you bought the best ECU in the world, it won't benefit you.

Felts

iTrader: (1)

well I was under the impression I could turn boost up to 17--18 psi without a piggyback setup and Ive read about how bad the ceramic turbos are so I went ahead and got them rebuilt so that they will last. What piggyback would you recommend for this setup? Also, its my understanding now that the wideband will be placed somewhere in the downpipe/midpipe and basically just need a power source and to turn it on? I can just read the afrs with it setup that way?

gerrb

iTrader: (34)

well... turning up the boost depends on how much power goal you are trying to get. The JDM turbos can, I would say be boosted up to 17psi the most , then those wheels start breaking. Again it depends now how you use and abuse the car . And based on your power goal of 350-400 , it was well within their capabilities. In fact you should hit your mentioned goal of 350 without going 17psi.

Yes , install the wideband on your downpipe/midpipe since your narrowband is at the Y-pipe after the turbos. Power it up and its signal wire going to your gauge.

For now, if I were you , I will enjoy the car at 400rwhp all with stock GTE components and small mods to get there and later on decide what really is your ultimate power goal so you don't waste buying something now (like injectors / piggyback )and then just to replace them since you wanted more. Got to consider also your use of the car , then decide on what is the best Piggyback or standalone you would eventually want to buy. I can tell you right now that Apexi AFC Neo will probably suit your needs but the question is Will it serve you knowing what your ultimate goal for your car is ? Right now, the way I look at my setups is, how can an ECU help me run my car reliably with all the features I want and at the same time how can my my investments be protected ? Does the ECU has the safety features to do so ? Most or majority of piggybacks don't.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you should have a wideband its impossible to know on your specific setup when exactly you will go lean.
with those turbo's you will be flowing more air, so a certain psi number is really subjective, its more about how much power it makes. I too was wondering why have such nice twins for a goal of 400 but reliability makes sense.

either get a wideband and see if you are good fuel wise at 15-17 psi which you might or might not be, it will be close, or just go to 550's and a piggyback and solve your problem giving you some more fuel overhead and you can probably even go higher than that power wise, but Gerrb is absolutely correct your stock auto trans will be on borrowed time above 350rwhp. really its on borrowed time once the car is turbocharged.

Felts

iTrader: (1)

Awesome thank you so much guys!! Ill get a wideband and toy with the boost and see what happens. I will plan on doing a piggyback and 550cc injectors later on once I decide to blow my auto trans and go manual