Golden95SC

iTrader: (21)

Hey guys I'm going na-t soon and much rather have a frim than to build the piping with the overlapping manifold. What exactly do I need to do? I would like to get it running in the ge before the turbo. Doing this on a Auto 97 sc.

This is what I know of so far

.will be using the xs mani welded to lower.
.custom throttle cable needed
.relocate power steering resivor
.egr Will be deleted

The part that confuses me is the throttle body.

.it claims for a Q45 throttle body. Now is Q45 the size? Or literally the infinityi Q45 throttle body?

Can I use a ebay Q45 and call it done?

Then a tps is needed. I assume I just wire it up?

Something about a tranny cable aswell?

Then vacuums.

Other than that, is there more to it? To get it running on a ge? Once it's done, putting the turbo kit is going to be so much simpler.

Lmk please

Thanks

Dexter72

Im in the process of doing this now but engine is in a Datsun 260z, 2jzge-nat. The Xs manifold i have is Long in the front. so for now using a Gs 400 throttle body. Im going to switch and use a shorty Ford throttle body after i get the engine running. Could never get my hands on the Q45 TB. I made a mounting plate for the throttle body out of 3/4'' aluminum plate. Cost me $5 bucks from ebay. Throttle body, to plate, to Xs manifold.

I would try to stay with a Toyota throttle body so you have a spot to connect both cables, if needed.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

you might want to look up those that have actually done it in our cars its pretty straight forward.
XS somehow has no idea what they are talking about the XS power does not come with a q45 bolt pattern, they are lying. it comes with a 90mm mustang bolt pattern, so the only bolt on ones are the 90mm mustang ones which mostly use the mustang tps. IF you are on standalone then this is no problem and the easiest route, its bolt on.

If you are on the tt ecu mod or a stock type toyota ecu, then you need to use a toyota tps.
There is a Ross Machine Racing "RMR" 90mm throttle body with a toyots tps adapter but its like $400+ but its bolt on and uses a toyota tps and is a nice unit.

what I ended up doing is getting a "RMR" q45 throttle body weld on flange for a "D plenum" and having my aluminum guy weld it on, then you can bolt on a q45 throttle body which is like 82.5mm. its no 90mm but its bigger than 3" piping so who really cares. I then used the stock tps with a q45 toyota tps adapter. I like the q45 cause they are readily available and a good throttle body. downside is a little bulky on the throttle side.

Some have also just had a shop weld in the holes for the 90mm mustang flange, and re drill and tap them to suit the q45 flange.
this is not a bad route to take but you will not be able to change the length of the intake and will probably have to keep the throttle linkage on the shock tower side.

the throttle cable you can use a landcruiser v8 throttle cable with the 2uz, its longer than needed but works it will reach wherever you need it to more or less.

IACV I got the weld on flange online from beech performance I think drift motion is now selling it for them and am running a sc400 unit, plugs into stock IACV connector. a 2jz or 7m unit would work also, I have heard the 1jz does not fit right but can't confirm that or not.

I also had the intake made shorter when I changed flanges so could run the q45 throttle body upside down and have the throttle cable come over the lower runner instead of the shock tower side. the throttle linkage will want to hit the power steering union bolt for the remote reservoir thing cause the q45 has this long arm on there, which is why I had to make the intake shorter to clear and used a lower profile bolt on the union. if you try and turn the throttle body upside down you will see what I mean. this is only needed for a q45 where you want to flip it upside down.


you can see in this picture where the silver looking linkage would swing down close to the silver hex bolt on the power steering union.
The linkage clears the bolt by like 1/4"-1/2"

so it really depends on what engine management you have and how you want it to look and spend will decide what throttle body and stuff you will end up going with.
The xspower manifold with the RMR 90mm is probably one of the best looking solutions out there. much cleaner than the q45 but the q45 is very reliable.

krwndklown

question... is this possible with an automatic transmission?

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

Yes but if you have the NA auto you'll have to lock the line pressure cable at full. Be prepared for violent shifts out of park, particularly into reverse.

killersqrl

Ali, I know you've mentioned before about the mustang tb not having an adapter for tps, but it looks like rmr is now selling the toyota tps adapter separately if I'm looking at the website correctly. If this is indeed what it appears to be, the other mustang tb's would be a viable option again for the xspower ffim and stock ecu. Can you confirm this is what one would need for the mustang tb?
http://www.rossmachineracing.com/toyotatpsmount.html

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Before they only said it fit their throttle body which is very expensive, but if it fits the normal mustang ones like they are saying now then yeah that should do the trick as far as tps is concerned. sounds like you may need to do some dremeling or grinding to make it fit, that's usually what it is when they put a warning like that but it does say it can fit most so yeah if you want to try that go for it, should fit easier but it is a mustang part.

The other thing I was wondering is what size is the normal mustang 5.0 throttle body. I doubt they are all 90mm, I bet that is just the largest one you can get. the stock one might not be that large and the larger ones might be pretty expensive still unless you can find a good deal on a used one, but I am not sure about this was going to look into it more.
*edit * did a quick search and am seeing 60-65mm as the stock size. pretty weak thats smaller than the stock throttle body, so make sure to get an upgraded 80-90mm if going this route.

I still like the q45 the throttle response is awesome, but the linkage is very bulky. the bulky linkage might be the reason why its so smooth though.

the only issue I had putting on the intake with the q45 throttle body and flange is that the flange that RMR sells has a 82.5mm opening.
the 90mm opening I can stick my arm down the plenum with ease, but the 82.5mm opening my arm gets stuck to where I can't reach the last bolt.

So what I did was I took a dremel and opened up the q45 flange to about 90mm (took a small pack of grinding discs).
this allowed me to be able to stick my arm down there with ease, and also bolt on the q45 throttle body.
For me this was the best solution in terms of reliability of the q45 throttle body, and still having the 90mm opening to reach down into the plenum.

Another trick I learnt when bolting them together, is that on the last bolt for the FFIM/runner (hardest to reach), I use a stud and nut from the original intake manifold which makes aligning up the gasket and getting the last one done easier cause you just have to put the nut on the stud and spin it and ratchet it down versus trying to thread a bolt at an odd angle in the back of the plenum. I use bolts on all the others, but the last one since its after the last runner anyways I use a stud and nut. makes things easier to install and remove.

car is still running strong with the FFIM, worked the pcv as it was oiling everything up but everything else about the same as before.
goign to add some pics of where I put my IACV and vacuum lines for others to get ideas. you can put them lots of places but I put them here so I can still reach the oil filter, and the vacuums on the back so they are hidden but still possible to get to.

The one vacuum bung in the middle of the plenum is for the map sensor and FPR, I always install the map sensor in the middle of runners 3 and 4, cause well that is the middle of the plenum and I want the reading there. I like to tie the FPR to the map sensor so they work in conjunction with each other fuel pressure and what ecu sees is same.

The 2 back vacuum bungs, one of them goes straight to brake booster like factory (important to have a dedicated line for brakes), the other one goes to a vac block that feeds all the other stuff in the car (BOV, heater valve, boost gauge, other stock stuff etc..)
I want to say the weld on aluminum bungs were 1/4" NPT threads. that is a good size for a 1/4"npt to 3/8" barb for a 3/8" hose like the brake booster line and also for smaller stuff you can just use a smaller hose barb like 1/8" or 1/4". always use liquid thread sealant (comes in a small white tube) on the threads don't use teflon its not a bathroom.




slightly modified sc400 IACV, fits on 2jzgte flange just fine.


Mock up shot on a spare GE motor to give an idea where the stuff sits.
the GE motor in this pic has a gte oil cooler on it and the plenum had straight vacuum fitting in the back but those became 90 degree ones before going in the car.


how its sitting now, I may think about flipping the throttle body sometime but the throttle cable will end up on the other side will have to get a tab welded if I do that.

killersqrl

Awesome, thanks for the photos, they really help! I ordered my FFIM last night, so will work on getting the IACV and vacuum bungs welded up while I save some more scratch for a TB. After going back and forth and reading everything I could, I think I finally decided to just bite the bullet and get the RMR TB and call it good since it comes with the TPS adapter and bolts right up, plus leaves plenty of room for me to work with pipes.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

no problem, by my third ffim on this motor I pretty much figured out where I wanted everything so thought it would be helpful to share some pics. I really took alot of time deciding where the vac bungs would be and the IACV, the oil filter is hard enough to reach without sticking the IACV in the middle of the plenum like some designs do.

The RMR throttle body is a piece of art, I wouldn't hesitate to run it I almost did that initially when they had the ones with the toyota tps adapter available still but someone bought the one I was going to get so I just chopped it off and went with good ol trusty q45.

killersqrl

I know some have said the iacv is not needed in some cases... being in south texas it's rarely cold, think I could get away with just not bothering with it? I don't mind sitting a few minutes while the engine warms up as long as it idles well once warm. Will the ecu complain about it being unhooked constantly?

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

ecu does not complain about it missing but I would go ahead and install one, its just a matter of getting flange welded and finding a sc400 IACV. both are not difficult and will help you idle properly.

without it its annoying to say the least, you will likely have a high warm idle, the warmer the engine is the higher the idle will go with the same amount of air. if you raise the cold idle enough to idle on its own, then the warm idle will be too high. if you set the warm idle right, then it wont idle cold unless footing the gas constantly. it gets old quick and then you wonder why you didnt do it in the first place when it was easy to access and sitting on your desk.

killersqrl

Gotcha, I might as well just get it done while I have it all apart like you said. I have the tb and weldon bungs so I just need to order the flange and find an iacv and I'll be ready for mockup and weld. Still have to relocate the ps stuff before I can mount it anyway. Thanks for all your help, you truly are a wealth of knowledge, you are very much appreciated!

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

Thanks, yeah you wont regret installing it, it makes life much easier. the flange is the most expensive part, sc400 IACV's are cheap and can be used.

asianic68

any chance of a wiring diagram and a detailed pic of how u using the sc400 iacv? or is it a plug and play to the old sc300 plug and the different ports on the sc400 iacv

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

all the sc300, supra, sc400 have the same IACV connector, simply unplug and plug into new one.
the sc300 harness does not need to be extended for the IACV, simply unwrap the harness and you will see the wires are very long (since they go to passenger side normally) and peel it back and it will reach anywhere on the drivers side.

the coolant ports on the IACV you don't hook up, I cut them off or pull them out usually (they are press fit in), but in that mock up pic they are still there. the only thing you need is the main connector and a small air filter (if you run a map sensor based ecu) or if you have a maf based ecu run a hose to your intake pipe behind the maf.