Cz831

Hi guys. New member here with a question. I have a 1998 Sc300 with a blown head gasket. I plan on having it replaced with an OEM one. I've read a ton if threads but can't find the info of exactly what i'm looking for.

Regarding the ARP headstuds, which are best to use, the Normal or Undercut ones? The motor is going to remain stock by the way.

What would the torque settings for the ARP head studs aswell as the torque settings for factory head bolts?

Thanks alot!

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

ARP has specific torq instructions included with the studs, they have to be torqued in torq stages and in a cross sequence from the middle to outside of the head if I remember correctly.. I've read different things regarding the washers, I used the normal ones included with the studs. I've read that the stock oem washers are also preferred due to the size of the washer being more optimal for our heads.

irondonkey

yup, refer to the instruction manual you get for the torque specs.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

regular arp studs, re-use factory washers, oem headgasket.

When using arp studs you use the poly lube that comes with it and then torque it in the 3 stages as in the instructions.

when using the stock head-bolts, you do 2 stages like in the manual (which are different numbers than the arp ones), and then you do a final 90 degree turn on the bolt. This is the factory toyota way to do it, but I have heard of people also just doing the 3 stages like the arp's. If you do the final 90 degree turn way, make sure you are using the factory numbers for the first 2 stages or you will overtorque them. I prefer to just do the 3 stages like the aftermarket cause the 90 degree turn you aren't really sure exactly where each one ends up unless you are very consistent on the second stage.

Cz831

Thanks for the info guys. I think im just going to get factory head bolts. When using the factory head bolts do you still need to torque them in sequence also? And what would the torque settings for the 2-3 stages?

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

Is there any possibility of wanting to boost the motor in the future? If so go ahead and do the ARP head studs! They really aren't any harder than doing the stock head bolts. Plus with the headbolts there's a chance of snapping the head of the bolt off.

Cz831

I dont have any plans to boost this motor. Gonna stay as stock as possible. Bought this as my sons first car, he just got his license.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

The ARP are easier to work with install and torq, they are cheaper and work better than factory .

I can tell you how to tq the arp over the phone..the stock head bolts are pita on the other hand , look in the TSRM...

ARP and be done, there is no disadvantage of using the arp's.

HiPSI

iTrader: (2)

If using ARP's just be super careful setting the head back down as the studs on the surface of the head will scratch. Make sure and have 2 people to hold the head and least, a third to guide it properly if possible.

99SC42

iTrader: (44)

You can actually install them like you install the factory headbolt, install the washers in the head , drop the head on the block, install the head studs and use the allen key to tighten then down , install the nuts and tq to spec.