estomax

iTrader: (2)

Hey Guys,

has anyone found any normal diverter valves that are more or less drop-in for the 1JZ vvti? The stock diverter valve works totally backwards of what a diverter valve should do. i am not sure what the Toyota engineers were thinking when they made it work via this wierd solenoid.

Anyway, the stock valve opens when the vac port gets positive pressure, so if you hook it up to your boost line it will open and bleed boost, and if you hook it to your intake manifold it will never open when you close the throttle and need it to open.

i saw on supra forums that one guy hooked up a DSM BOV but two adapter plates are required for that. I have an Audi 710N diverter valve that uses 1" tubing on both sides and the stock diverter valve seems to use 1-1/4 tubing or so (haven't gotten exact measurement yet) so i am going to try to find an adapter for the tubing and then have to make a custom plate with a 1" hose barb for the intake side.

before i embark on this science experiment i wanted to see how others here solved this on their 1jz vvti's

cheers
Marko

estomax

iTrader: (2)

some progress on this. the stock diverter valve could potentially be made workable if the hole on top of the diverter valve is hooked up to a hose barb as vacuum on that hole makes the diverter valve open. going to try that and see how well it works.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Could always make a plate with a flange on it or weld a flange directly on the big cast bread box dealy

estomax

iTrader: (2)

yeah going to a custom diverter valve is the long term solution, the base of the OEM Diverter valve can act as a mount for the new one and i need to convert the 1.25 or 1.5 inch tubing from the breadbox turbo side to 1" tubing to be able to use an Audi 710N diverter valve (2x 1 inch hose connections)

temporarily though i wanted to see if i can make the OEM setup work, and this is what i did. i went and bought a piece of the smallest brake line from the auto parts store, welded it onto this hole, and jb welded around to get pin hole leaks gone (my ****ty welder/welding techniques..) a vacuum hose fits perfectly on it. the brake line i used is 3/16" steel brake line, ground the paint off for welding.

i went for a drive and it seems to function well, heard no turbo flutter and the diverter valve functions quietly under normal use (barely hear it) and under full boost will give a bit of a chirp/whoosh. left my CXracing bov unhooked for now, may try having them both hooked up or just blocking the cxracing one off.

i'll post pics when i get home and clean it up.

Marko

didn't have time to play with it, but this is what it looks like after: