How to sump/plumb fuel system (tank) for sc300?
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How to sump/plumb fuel system (tank) for sc300?
Have a stock empty sc300/400 fuel tank. Wanted to run either dual walbro pumps or a big single pump and was wondering how to connect a -8an feed fitting out of the tank? Out of the factory feed line if I can have a -8an line or dual -6an?
There are the 2 banjo fittings under the tank on one side. One for feed and one for return.
Do you guys keep the factory return line hooked up off of the fuel rail back into the factory return location?
Also there is another banjo fitting on the other side I think that is a vacuum line? Do you still need to keep that hooked up to something if there is no charcoal canister?
Cap that is ok??
Thanks
There are the 2 banjo fittings under the tank on one side. One for feed and one for return.
Do you guys keep the factory return line hooked up off of the fuel rail back into the factory return location?
Also there is another banjo fitting on the other side I think that is a vacuum line? Do you still need to keep that hooked up to something if there is no charcoal canister?
Cap that is ok??
Thanks
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Can you unscrew the stock feed line/banjo fitting and weld a -10 or -8an fitting there (keep the stock return) and run 8an line to the pump?
Or if we keep the stock feed banjo fitting line and pump (maybe use a walbro 255 in tank) and then feed it into the 8an line out of the tank into adapter to the magnafuel external pump?
Or if we keep the stock feed banjo fitting line and pump (maybe use a walbro 255 in tank) and then feed it into the 8an line out of the tank into adapter to the magnafuel external pump?
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bump im doing the same thing and need to know this also, those banjo fittings have that weird pin thing in it that plugs a hole. so what have other people done i want to run an in tank walbro and a inline bosch 044 with -8 feed and return,
btw if you want a bigger fuel system you shouldn't use the stock return its to small and restrictive
btw if you want a bigger fuel system you shouldn't use the stock return its to small and restrictive
#4
from what ive seen, there is no replacement for those banjo bolts, since they do plug a small hole. don't know why its designed like that but it is.
the only way to get rid of them would be to take out the gas tank, completely clean it, and weld the holes shut and install an fittings.
the only way to get rid of them would be to take out the gas tank, completely clean it, and weld the holes shut and install an fittings.
#5
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Edit: Moved here to keep this thread from going off-topic.
I swapped a '95 fuel tank into my '94 today. I thought the only catch was the level senders having different connections (swapping the senders and corresponding lids addressed that), but when I poured some fuel back in, it gushed out the banjo fittings in the bottom. I re-tried things a few times and then left it overnight to dry up so I can see better if it's still leaking tomorrow.
But, I'm curious about those little holes that mecheng10 mentioned. I assumed they were just anchor points to keep the banjo fitting from spinning while tightening it, like on the brake calipers. But looking closer, they do indeed appear to be actual holes that the barbs on the banjo fittings plug.
That makes me think those little holes are the source of my sizable leak. I didn't see any sort of gasket, washer, or grommet on those barbs on either of the tanks upon removal of the banjo bolts, but it seems like there would have to be something to seal that sloppy metal-on-metal union. I can't see anything relevant on the parts schematics.
But, I'm curious about those little holes that mecheng10 mentioned. I assumed they were just anchor points to keep the banjo fitting from spinning while tightening it, like on the brake calipers. But looking closer, they do indeed appear to be actual holes that the barbs on the banjo fittings plug.
That makes me think those little holes are the source of my sizable leak. I didn't see any sort of gasket, washer, or grommet on those barbs on either of the tanks upon removal of the banjo bolts, but it seems like there would have to be something to seal that sloppy metal-on-metal union. I can't see anything relevant on the parts schematics.
Last edited by t2d2; 07-17-15 at 02:30 PM.
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