SCereal

iTrader: (4)

OK so I'm planning out phase 1 of my build and have some concerns. I've been reading and reading and my mind is swimming with 8 ways to do everything and its all confusing. Phase 1 I just want to get on the road boosted, maybe 350whp. phase 2 is e85 and high boost ~800whp

Here's what I got, what I want and some of how i plan to get there. Could someone please help me with my plan and point out some pitfalls or better ways to do things?

Virtual Works GE intake
precision 76mm
Boost Logic GE manifold
CXRacing IC piping & 4" core IC
46mm tial wg
BOV TBD

issues I know about:
Trans is stock auto for now, will have to lock the kick down cable since im going with the intake i have. When i swap in the TT auto, i know this wont be an issue and the ecu will control it.

Throttle cable - Hopefully the land cruiser v8 throttle cable will be long enough. (alternatives?)

Power Steering reservoir - intake might just clear it but if not, can swap to sc4 or supra
battery is already relocated so no clearance issue there

issues i'm unclear on:
fuel. ive read stock setup can handle up to 700ish hp. i dont know if the stock rail will work with my intake and i do have a nice shiny titan dual feed one but for phase 1 i want to change as little as possible. assuming stock rail will work, can i run the 330's or should i go to 440s?

How about stock pump? knowing ultimate goal is e85 if i have to upgrade might as well get an e85 pump. dual in tanks i think is the goal so getting one to start would make sense if needed.

fuel management - im going to have to swap to speed density because of the intake, i dont know if i can keep my maf and all that. standalone is phase 2, what options do i have for phase 1? would an emanage blue work? would it be worth going to an aristo tt ecu? it dont make sense to me to get a map ecu or something for almost 1000 when a standalone isn't that much more.

Boost controller - do i need a boost controller (even a manual one) at this point or just set my wastegate to like 6psi?

overall idea - obviously the main components are big boy toys, are they going to be able to work effectively reigned in until i can sure up my drive line?

Thanks to anyone who can shed some light my way and help me make sense of it all. I'm just trying to get on the road with some boost and not waste a ton of money redoing it all over again when its time to go big.

turbodremz

iTrader: (18)

Your stock auto ecu wont control the TT Auto trans...

To get just over 300rwhp on na-t, you need roughly 9psi of boost, with stock compression.

I would highly suggest looking into doing the GTE ECU swap. This will aid in a few of your goals, and will allow use of the TT Auto trans. But, neither of the auto trans will hold 800hp. SO, you might want to just jump the gun, go with a standalone for the E85 (AEM, ProEFI, etc), built TH400 trans with a manual valve body, and a few other things. Power steering pump, you just need the reservoir and fitting for a GTE engine as the pumps are the same.

You seem to be on the right track, but some of the info your obtaining seems to be slightly off.

You can keep the MAF with a FFIM, just extend the wires. Its been done several times, once including myself.

I would start simple. 9psi, stock compression, stock fuel injectors, Walbro 255lph pump, and an SAFC controller or AEM FIC. That will get you started on your phase one.

Phase 2- full standalone, 1000-1200cc injectors for the E85, dual Walbro pumps or a Weldon race pump, full aftermarket fuel line setup, built TT Auto trans or a built auto with manual VB.

Like I said, your on the right track.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the input! I started to get overwhelmed with everything and this puts my mind at ease. I'll read up more on the ECU swap but I suspect phase 1 won't last long enough to make it worth it and knowing my luck i'll find a deal on a standalone before im ready for it anyway.

I'll also look into getting my MAF to work with my intake. I think the TB i have on my intake is a big GM unit.

thanks again for your suggestions!

BoostdIS3

Is there a reason you are taking it in stages on certain items? It seems logical to me to skip to a full standalone, instead of wiring in a piggyback. Most standalones also have built in boost control software so it seems logical to not waste money on a piggyback + boost controller. Seems logical to get one E85 pump, then add a second( to the second inlet on your titan fuel rail). This sounds like a really good project, I am interested!

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

Hmm didn't think about that with the standalone having a boost controller feature. Good reason to go standalone from the start. Just have to water the money tree a little longer. Lol.

I'm doing stages to get me back in the game. Didn't want to wait so long and do it at all once. Wanted to enjoy it and learn it before going nuts. Spread out the expense a little. I was hoping to be on the road by summer and then full build next winter maybe just push that out and roll na until then.

jwin

iTrader: (16)

you can save money on the ffim and go with a cheaper version and use that money for a standalone,

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

I already have the intake from a couple years ago or I'd go with a cheaper alternative. It'll be funny to pop the hood and see it and all the big piping and only put down 300.

BoostdIS3

Which standalone are you going to use? The Adaptronic units seem to be the most popular I have noticed.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

I had originally thought i'd go AEM but Pro EFI seems to be the new hotness, just choking on the price. I think i'd be ok with the lower end ProEFI but it doesn't control the transmission and is still 1500 after harness and such. Might as well go AEM at that price and be done with it. I'll have to look at the adaptronic unit, not something i've researched.

Vrank

iTrader: (4)

Adaptronic is popular in like backwards Australia. Don't even bother looking. AEM v2 and don't look back. Proefi is neat if you can find someone that knows the system really really well, but aem is proven everywhere, for the price, can't be beat.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

AEM v2 is probably going to be the way to go. The ProEFI is by everything I've read better but not +$2000 better. Doing more reading about the horror stories of using SAFC and the like on the stock GE ECU, the TT ECU swap looks like a good idea. I didn't realize I could run that ECU up as high as you apparently can (~20psi with a few tricks). Can always resell it down the line and recoup some of the money when its time to go standalone.

Be a good bridge between phase 1 and 2 as well. Swap in built TT auto, turn it up from 8 lbs to 16, run that a while then go standalone, big fuel, etc.

Thanks guys for you guidance, I really do appreciate it.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

stock compression, coilpacks, tt ecu or aem ems for stage 1. for stage 2 aem ems or other standalone.

SCereal

iTrader: (4)

Ali, I'm actual reading your tt ecu thread now and I've decided that's the route I'm going for phase 1. Just solves a ton of issues for me and makes too much sense.

BoostdIS3

For $1076 Plug and play I think the Adaptronic is hard to beat based on features. I find it hard to believe someone will pay $2000+ plus for a standalone on one of these cars, not to mention taking full advantage of the pro efi will probably lead to an extremely expensive tune. Also if this guys plans on tuning the unit himself, forgot it. Even the AEM is probably way over his head( no offense), as it is with most people here.

Ali SC3

iTrader: (10)

do you need to worry about emissions at all, then none of the standalones will work for your car as you have a 97 and have an odb2 plug in. only way if you have to pass emissions is a piggyback on your current non turbo ecu which is pretty sketchy to tune, or a USDM GTE odb2 ecu. a couple guys are doing trhe US odb2 version right now, one is having issues but usually it takes a little bit of troubleshooting depending on who is installing it. you can follow in the end of the thread there if interested.

standalone is great also it just depends on what stage you want to be at when, and there is a learning curve for even getting the thing started and set up to drive to your tuner.